Preshading question

Thanks to all who replied to my preshade question

I will post shade the panel lines with pastels 

and washes on this model aircraft.

Againt thanks to all!!!

Eugene 

ps I post pics upon completion for your inspection

hopefully soon

Reasoned

Excellent timing for this question, as I was "thinking" about giving preshading a try for the first time on a grey colored VAL.  Always on the hunt for short cuts, I mulled the possibility of using a marker/Sharpie for this task. Then I came across this: http://www.ratomodeling.com/articles/pre_shading1/

Read before you use a Sharpie, I'd be interested what your thoughts are on this Hans.

Yeah, I've read that... Just about every time I mention Sharpies, someone links that article to me, lol..

Best thing I can say about it is that it works for ME, Your milelage may vary..  Probably because I started doing it without reading anything about it, or that it was "bad" for you, or that it wouldn't work, or whatever....

I just did it ...

Was it 100%? Nope.. But that's because I, like so many others, got to reading about how much better acrylics were, and you gotta THIS new paint, and do THIS instead of THAT, and  yadda, yadda, yadda... I got away from using what I knew worked...  Enamels!

Black Sharpie + Testor's enamel + experience with proper thinners = good preshading results with Sharpie...

 As always, test on something first, see what happens... And use Future on the floor, not on a model... A rattle-can of clear gloss, either enamel or acrylic, or acrylic laquer is just as glossy (for decaling anyway) and you don't have to clean anything up..

Using acrylics over Sharpie-ink is exactly the opposite of what I said to do, also.. Acrylics contain alcohol.. Sharpies are alcohol-soluable...

If you insist upon acrylics, and don't seal the Sharpie ink with clear Enamel or Laquer, then expect a problem..

Using pastels/charcoal and post-shading with a brush is what I actually prefer anyway... You can't control the pre-shading... Ever... Except as you lay it down, obviously.. Once you've got paint over it, it might as well be on the moon..

.. 

Sharpie Paint Markers are pretty compatible with Acrylic paint,,,,,but, only if you notice the word "Paint" in the post

I wouyld use a post shading technique with pastels, it easier to control.

As for using shapries, Sharpies and other permanent markers are often incompatible with arylic paints. The Sharpie will bleed under the paint. They can be used with enamels.

just thinking out loud here,,,,,,but, something might hit up against your "light bulb switch"

since you are trying to do manually what others use an airbrush for, here are some ways it has been done  before the airbrushers started at it

a pencil after the painting was finished

a Rapidiograph pen, after the paint was finished

many and various "wash, then wipe excess" methods,,,,again, on top of the paint,,,,,some of those methods were used with raised panel lines, also, before recessed lines were so popular

now, I just got to wondering if you "washed and wiped" a dis-similar paint into your lines as a pre-shade, if that would work

or,,,,,using a drafting pen to apply a wash into those lines,,,,,,wiping the edges if needed

or,,,,"stretching as if it were sprue" on the end of a plastic paint pipette, to make a sort of disposable touch n flow for applying a wash, again, wiping the edge if needed

 I' have already tried a black sharpie for the panel lines(on a spare wing) but did not use a sealer like future. Its been a two weeks and nothing yet! Using rattle can model master enamel too. I have another spare wing will try it again but will use future this time.

Eugene 

thanks much

haha, I remember a veryyyyy angry modeler that came after me once,,,,,,seems he was upset with me for advising him to use a Sharpie Paint Marker on his red landing gear door edges,,,,he used a Red Sharpie instead of a Red Sharpie Paint Marker

turned a shade of pink under the clear Future coat, I believe (all I remember is that he used an Acrylic clear of some kind)

since buying and trying those Paint Markers,,,,,I have gone back to using a small paint brush again,,,,,after you have the markers for a while,,,they basically turn into a weird "paint pump device that you need to brush paint anyway",,,,might as well skip that step and just use the paint from a bottle, and it is far cheaper per bottle than it is per Paint Marker

there is one good use for Markers,,,,,find some of the superfine Permanent markers, or Sharpie metallics,,,,,they do work great for touching up metallic "oops" spots if you see one at the last minute, after you thought the model was all "done and great" (at least, that is always when I see the oops on mine)

I would worry a LOT about bleed through with Acrylics,,,,,,it might be worth a try with Enamel paint,,,,,don't know

Rex

LOL the only similar thing i performed is to draw the panel lines with a penci, but after the paint  

Excellent timing for this question, as I was "thinking" about giving preshading a try for the first time on a grey colored VAL.  Always on the hunt for short cuts, I mulled the possibility of using a marker/Sharpie for this task. Then I came across this: http://www.ratomodeling.com/articles/pre_shading1/

Read before you use a Sharpie, I'd be interested what your thoughts are on this Hans.

I've pre-shaded quite succesfully with black Sharpie markers... I've only used enamels and enamel rattle-cans, however, so I don't know if acrylics would give you a problem, since many of them are alcohol-based, and Sharpie-ink is alcohol soluable..

That said, I'm not much of a fan of pre-shading since you don't have control over it when the paint's applied, preferring to post-shade with a brush and pastels..

thank you for the advise on preshading, guess I will

be buying an airbrush! sooner

Thanks to all who responded!!

Eugene

nope, i tried with my corsair to preshade with black

after colors no trace of under black was visible

the only way with brushes is postshading, i use only drybrush tecnique to do

Last work with post shadind on my zero

here just paint main green and after drybrushed a lighter color in the center of panels, but inverse thing is also possible

Honestly, if you don't have an airbrush, don't even bother preshading. 

Preshading only works because you're applying multiple thin coats on top, gradually building up paint coverage until the preshading is just barely visible. Building the paint up in that manner all but requires an airbrush to control the paint flow and have control over paint:thinner ratios.

You'd be better off calling out panels post-painting with washes and/or pastels.

It might be a little tough to pre shade without using an airbrush.  I've never tried without an airbrush and would definitely recommend trying it on a test subject first.  The thing with preshading is the base coat, applied after the preshade, is thinned more than normal.  You could possibly do it, but it will take multiple light coats to achieve the desired effect.

You might look at using artist pastels as an alternative and try POST shading the panel lines.  I've seen this used before and with great results.  The nice thing about artist pastels is they come in a variety of colors and if you don't like how they look, they can be wiped off with a damp cloth. 

Hope it helps!