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Problems with Testors Lusterless lacquer spray

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  • Member since
    February 2012
Problems with Testors Lusterless lacquer spray
Posted by Escape068 on Thursday, March 22, 2012 2:03 PM

I recently painted an F-14d Tomcat - light ghost gray on the bottom and medium gray on the top using Testors enamels via an airbrush. The finish was dead flat and very smooth.  After drying for several days I sprayed the model with Testors semigloss lacquer #1959 so I could apply the decals on smoother surface.  The semigloss coat was a little heavy on the top of the model and I had a few runs which I was able to brush smooth using some testors lacquer thinner.  After it dried I noticed the area where I used the brush /thinner was very shinny and  the rest of the model was not very shinny at all. So I decided to spray Testors lusterless #1960 lacquer coat to even out the shine but it didn't. The shine on the area where I used the brush was even more shinny.  The finish now is not very good at all on the spots I touched up.  Do I need to lightly sand the shinny area and repaint the whole top and clearcoat again?

What is the correct way of applying clearcoats.  I have read for the #1960 lusterless 2-3 very light coats just misting them on from 8-12 inches away waiting a few minutes between coats. 

When I sprayed I was closer to the model and the surface was all wet so that seems to be part  the problem. 

Would the #1959 semigloss clear be the same procedure 2-3 light coats 8-12 inches away and how long do you wait before you spray the lusterless coat over the semigloss? 

Should I be using the Testors glosscote #1961 instead of the semigloss for the decals then followed by the lusterless coat?

I have done a few tanks and just used the lusterless #1960 and it was very flat with a slight shine.  I did another plane first using the semigloss clear #1959 applied decals and then a lusterless coat #1960 and it came out more of a satin finish.  Not sure why I have different shines using the same lusterless clearcoat.

I want a consistent shine which I don't seem to be getting using the Testors lusterless #1960

Sorry for the lengthly post, but it is hard to explain in detail painting issues so its easily undestood

Any suggestions would be appreciated along with alternative brands or methods

Thanks,

Scott

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Virginia
Posted by Wingman_kz on Thursday, March 22, 2012 9:04 PM

No guarantees but, my guess is that if you sanded the shiney areas lightly just to scuff them and give a little texture then you may be able to recoat and get an even finish. I'm thinking that when you leveled the runs with lacquer thinner you created a smoother, slicker surface and that's why they were glossier. And as you said, the heavier wet coat probably made it glossier. I know it's more work but you could decant the clears and shoot them through your airbrush for more control.

Tony

            

  • Member since
    February 2012
Posted by Escape068 on Thursday, March 22, 2012 10:25 PM

Thanks for the suggestion Tony. 

 I called Testors and s/w Amber in their tech dept and she told me to use isopropyl alcohol to remove the lacquer coats and that it will not harm the enamel paint.  She said with the lusterless clear to shake for atleast 3 minutes and keep shaking after a few spray passes.  She said to spray 10 -12 inches from model and put on very light coats and to wait at least 20 minutes between coats.  Warming up the can in warm water will also help before spraying. 

She also said if you get the dullcote /glosscote 1 3/4 oz  bottles and mix with lacquer thinner to spray with an airbrush it would come better, be easier to do and be much more economical compared to the cans.  I actually have 6 bottles of each dullcote #1160 and glosscote #1161 along with the lacquer thinner #1159 but have not used it.  I have been using the cans first.  I may try using the bottles with the airbrush

I took her advice and was able to remove the lacquer clearcoat with the alcohol.  It took some time but almost all came off and it didn't mess up the enamel color coat.  I needed to touch up a few small spots and will now wait until tomorrow to spray a semigloss coat,  then wait 24 hours then apply the decals wait another 24 hours and spray a final lusterless coat

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Thursday, March 22, 2012 10:30 PM

Definitely, shake well and when you think you've shaken it too much, shake it siome more... Smile

If you haven't shaken it well previously, it may be that your previous usages (which have hitherto given you a flat finish) have expelled all of the matting agent (silica) from the can and what remains is the (gloss) paint/carrier, which you have been using of late, which may result in a gloss/semi-gloss finish. If this is the case, you may need to replace the can.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Virginia
Posted by Wingman_kz on Sunday, March 25, 2012 8:57 PM

Been absent for a few days, I'm glad you got some help Escape068. Any time I use an aerosol can I warm it with some hot tap water and if I spray for a while and the can cools to the touch, I set it in water again. You'll have a lot more control with the airbrush. Please let us know how it turns out.

Tony

            

  • Member since
    April 2010
  • From: Somewhere in MN
Posted by El Taino on Sunday, March 25, 2012 9:19 PM

Yes,

you should have used the Glosscote 1961 for your decals. The semi gloss 1959 doesn't create (IMO) a good base for decaling and your decals might 'silver' as a result. That's *probably* the reason you went a little overboard and the semi-gloss ran a bit, because probably you didn't see it glossy enough. Even using Gloss Cote might require 2+ coats for a good decal surface. Use your SG cote for a final overall finish as you would with flat cote, never for decals or washes.

  • Member since
    February 2012
Posted by Escape068 on Monday, March 26, 2012 3:35 PM

Saturday I used a mixture of Testors glosscote & dullcote 65/35 and sprayed with airbrush and it came very nice. It has a nice even shine for the decals.  After the decals have a chance to dry I will do the reverse 30/70 glosscote / dullcoat to get a satin type finish.  I will still use the testors spary cans for smaller models like tanks but for larger plane type models the airbrush is the way to go

Thanks for all the tips and advice

Scott

  • Member since
    February 2012
Posted by Escape068 on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 9:11 AM

Can I use the hardware store lacquer thinner to thin the Testors Glosscote / Dullcote clears?  The Testors thinner is expensive and if the hardware store lacquer thinner can be used it would be even more economical then the cans. 

Also what is the ratio of lacquer thinner to clear? Currently I'm mixing 2 to 3 of thinner to clear

Thanks,

Scott

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Sarasota, FL
Posted by RedCorvette on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 9:52 AM

Escape068

Can I use the hardware store lacquer thinner to thin the Testors Glosscote / Dullcote clears?  The Testors thinner is expensive and if the hardware store lacquer thinner can be used it would be even more economical then the cans. 

Also what is the ratio of lacquer thinner to clear? Currently I'm mixing 2 to 3 of thinner to clear

Thanks,

Scott

I've always used ordinary lacquer thinner with Testors Glosscote & Dullcote with good results.  I use a 1:1 ratio for airbrushing.

I mix Glosscote & Dullcote for semi-gloss finishes.  I usually start out at 1:1, then adjust depending on the look I want to achieve.

As far as decaling, I've had the best results with first applying Glosscote, decaling, applying a second layer of Glosscote over the decals and then my final coat of semi-gloss, flat or whatever final finish I want to achieve. 

Mark

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  • Member since
    February 2007
Posted by mitsdude on Thursday, March 29, 2012 2:14 AM

I'm thinking that maybe every once in a while a can will be defective in the sense that there is something wrong with the flattening agent. (bad batch? not enough of it?, settled to the bottom and hardened?, mislabeled?)

I had a can a few years ago that just would not produce a flat finish, it was more of a semigloss.  I tried the heating method and shook the heck out of it and it helped a little but not much.

I haven't had a problem since then and have used probably 10 more cans.

  • Member since
    February 2012
Posted by Escape068 on Thursday, March 29, 2012 9:22 AM

RedCorvette

 Escape068:

Can I use the hardware store lacquer thinner to thin the Testors Glosscote / Dullcote clears?  The Testors thinner is expensive and if the hardware store lacquer thinner can be used it would be even more economical then the cans. 

Also what is the ratio of lacquer thinner to clear? Currently I'm mixing 2 to 3 of thinner to clear

Thanks,

Scott

 

I've always used ordinary lacquer thinner with Testors Glosscote & Dullcote with good results.  I use a 1:1 ratio for airbrushing.

I mix Glosscote & Dullcote for semi-gloss finishes.  I usually start out at 1:1, then adjust depending on the look I want to achieve.

As far as decaling, I've had the best results with first applying Glosscote, decaling, applying a second layer of Glosscote over the decals and then my final coat of semi-gloss, flat or whatever final finish I want to achieve. 

Mark

 

How much time do you let clearcoat dry between coats and also the drying time if going from gloss to dull. 

Are the drying times different  if you are just giving a second coat of the same finish compared to going from gloss to dull or vise versa.

You said after decals you give another glosscoat then the final finish coat

 

Thanks

Scott

  • Member since
    February 2012
Posted by Escape068 on Friday, March 30, 2012 10:47 AM

Quick airbrush question

What is best way to spray the clearcoat......Gravity feed or siphon bottle feed. 

I have a Badger 360 universal so I can spray either way.  I know the dullcoat needs to be mixed frequently so I was wondering wihich way would be better to spray

Thanks,

Scott

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