Cleaning air brush nozzles

After all the soaking, I usually use an eye dropper to force thinner through and I follow with a tootbrush and run it through with a bristle to get any residue.

Hutch

Dried acrylic can be very sturborn and difficult to clean. The obvious lesson learned is that never use thick and lumpy acrylic with your airbrush. But it can happen to all of us sometimes. It often means very strong solvant plus mechanical cleaning with a small brush.

This deep cleaning of HP-CS nozzle page will be helpful to you. This web site has other cleaning suggestions too.

For normal cleaning, you may find this video helpful. You will need to replace the water she used with the appropriate cleaner of your paint. I always use the one that the paint manufacturer suggested.

[quote user="keilau"]

The obvious lesson learned is that never use thick and lumpy acrylic with your airbrush.

 I use an old nylon stocking liberated from the wive's drawer as a paint strainer. Just cut off a piece of the nylon stocking and stretch over the mixing jar. The stocking will trap all the gunk. It only takes one tiny speck to mess things up

I have avoided using acrylics in my airbrush after getting a stubborn clog several years ago.  However, I am starting to believe those who say that solvent based paints are on their way out. I see more and more enamel products disappearing.  I have always prided myself in trying new ideas and products in modeling, so I am making a renewed effort to use acrylics. I have been warned to use retarders in my paints, and make cleaning the brush after use a priority- let the answering machine take care of phone calls, etc.  Ready to give it another try.

Do you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner?

mitsdude

Do you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner?

That's an excellent suggestion. I have a small one I bought at Walmart a while back and it seems to get junk off even after the AB looks clean.

Using an ultra sonic cleaner is the easiest way to go, after a basic cleaning i place my air brush in the cleaner with a mix of windex/sinple green/water. Also even between colour changes, I will run the brush through a quick cleaning with just water in the ultra sonic cleaner.

keilau

Dried acrylic can be very sturborn and difficult to clean. The obvious lesson learned is that never use thick and lumpy acrylic with your airbrush. But it can happen to all of us sometimes. It often means very strong solvant plus mechanical cleaning with a small brush.

This deep cleaning of HP-CS nozzle page will be helpful to you. This web site has other cleaning suggestions too.

For normal cleaning, you may find this video helpful. You will need to replace the water she used with the appropriate cleaner of your paint. I always use the one that the paint manufacturer suggested.

Interesting, what they consider a "deep cleaning", is how I clean my airbrush after every session.

Fuddy Duddy

keilau:

This deep cleaning of HP-CS nozzle page will be helpful to you. This web site has other cleaning suggestions too.

For normal cleaning, you may find this video helpful. You will need to replace the water she used with the appropriate cleaner of your paint. I always use the one that the paint manufacturer suggested.

 Interesting, what they consider a "deep cleaning", is how I clean my airbrush after every session.

What has happened if you do not do the deep cleaning after using the airbrush? What airbrush is that?

Taking the whole airbrush apart hasten the wear and tear of the airbrush. I did not find it necessary to do it every session. In addition to the Iwata HP-CS, I have a H&S Evolution Silverliner and a Badger Krome.

Well, this may cause an uproar but...

You can take a heavy sewing needle, file a flat from the point back, insert it into the nozzle gently and turn. If you had an old airbrush needle then you could do the same thing but I'm guessing you probably don't. Basically, you end up with half a needle. The sides of the flat you made will scrape away the paint.

Or, you could sand a wooden toothpick to a very fine point and use that in the same manner. If you soak the tip/nozzle in lacquer thinner that should soften just about any paint enough to clean it out. I've never used urethanes so I don't know about them but any other solvent based or acrylic paint should soften.

Tony

Fanatstic response guys, thanks for all your feedback- given me some hope!

The part in question is definitely the nozzle which has a 0.35 exit tip

I can insert a metal brush bristle from the outside pushing through to clear the exit. The problem however is on the inside, there's obviously a build-up, problem is the nozzle is so small I cannot see inside from the entrance. I have left in laquer thinners soak when not in use

keilau/plastickjunkie:  thanks for the airbrush guru website, very helpful cleaning guide. Yes old lumpy paint not a good idea, learnt that some time ago with my "H" but lesson not learnt, thought I would thin it out in the cup. Stocking good idea

Don Stauffer:  what is a paint retarder? I use Tamiya accylics or occassionally Humbrol enamels because these are the easiest to get locally but

mitsdude/Virago/plastickjunkie:  I've never heard of an ultasonic cleaner! But what a fantastic idea, just did some quick research, sounds like the answer - I will get a cheapie from HK & give it a go. Question - what solution is used, is water/detergent sufficient, can thiners be used?

Fudddy Duddy/keilau - I generally follow the cleaning routine described, do the handle bit aoccassionally,its just getting inside that nozzle is the issue, never know if it has be adequately cleaned until it blocks?

Wingman - willing to try whatever, problem is seeing inside

keilau

 

 

Taking the whole airbrush apart hasten the wear and tear of the airbrush. I did not find it necessary to do it every session. In addition to the Iwata HP-CS, I have a H&S Evolution Silverliner and a Badger Krome.

True. Taking it apart each time is unnecessary but it seems some people don't grasp that.

NeedBeer, you don't need to see inside. You said you have a brush that will fit inside, dip the brush in some thinner and clean the nozzle/tip on a clean piece of paper towel. Some thinner will probably drip out, keep going till it's clear. If it doesn't drip, touch the brush to the towel. Or if you use a toothpick, if you're removing any paint it will show. You have a new nozzle, check how much needle sticks out when it's seated and compare that to your old nozzle. Unless there is a big difference I wouldn't worry about it.

I don't have one but an ultrasonic cleaner should work well and not do any damage in the process. From what I've read, people use all sorts of solutions in them. I wouldn't drop a complete assembled brush in one though. I'd remove anything that had a rubber seal of any sort. And I'd rinse and blow it out thoroughly when I was done in case any sediment settled in a passage.

Tony

What kind of ratio of water to windex should you use in an ultra sonic cleaner?

santini

What kind of ratio of water to windex should you use in an ultra sonic cleaner?

Most airbrushes are made of brass. Ammonia is not compatible with brass. Most Windex contains ammonia.

Windex is a good cleaner for acrylic paint. Many modelers had stated that they used Windex for years without ill effect.

However, I am still not sure you should soak the airbrush in it. I avoid using Windex with my airbrush completely just to be on the safe side.

Windex is fine. Yes ammonia can discolor brass they say but I have yet to see it.

Also remember that Windex has a very small percentage of ammonia in it.

I would not advice soaking in pure ammonia but Windex, especially when diluted in water is perfectly safe.

I would try 2:1. Two parts water to one part Windex.

You could also put some Simple Green in along with the Windex as the two together make one of the best acrylic paint cleaners you can use. Then I would use 2 parts water, 1 part Windex and 1 part Simple Green.