The best double-action airbrush is...

Why I prefer gravity feed.

I have to agree, Don, I question the change to plastic tops and tubes as well. I use the metal cups for my SA Badgers, have a whole bunch of them, with caps, want a couple for free??? Happy to send them if so.

Patrick

patrick206

 Early on the Paasches worked just fine, then a few years ago I began to get some poor quality parts, that were ordered for maintenance replacement items. Damaged beyond use, (not all, but several,) so I bought my first Badger, faultless AB construction materials.

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That said, if at some future point Badger does the same thing, I'll be AB shopping again. Let's hope not.

 

Patrick 

 

 

I do find that Badger has cheapened their construction since my first Badger.  I use siphon feed brushes and do not like the bottle tops and how the bottle mounts to the airbrush. It used to be a metal fixture, and permanent to the brush.  Now, it is a plastic cap and a friction fit connecting feed tube to airbrush.  I don't like that feature.

 

Good to know Patrick. If I start getting bad parts I'll think about joining the campfire at the Badger tent. Always good to hear an informed opinion.

Happy modeling!

Mike

MRMIKE and Gary -

I'm happily in the Badger camp now, but for several decades I was nearly exclusively a Paasche user. Loved my old Talon, VJR, VL, V, H and F, still have and use the V, VJR and F. Early on the Paasches worked just fine, then a few years ago I began to get some poor quality parts, that were ordered for maintenance replacement items. Damaged beyond use, (not all, but several,) so I bought my first Badger, faultless AB construction materials.

So aside from my three Paasche's, one Iwata and two old Binks Wrens, with Badger's I'm back to having airbrushes that give me confidence they will go for the long haul, and any replacement parts I order will be of dependable quality and serviceability. I really was happy with my Paasches for a very long time, but for me the parts service just became too erratic.

That said, if at some future point Badger does the same thing, I'll be AB shopping again. Let's hope not.

And you're right, there is and will always be brand loyalty.

Some guys swear by John Deere, others prefer Bud Light. (:>)

Patrick 

 

I bought a Paasche H back in 1988 and I've used it to paint over 40 models in a variety of camo and natural metal finishes.  With a lot of experience and finesse, one can achieve some fine results.  But, that said, it does have its limits.  A dear friend gave me his Paasche type V about 20 years ago but I could never get it to run right. 

A while back, I bought a new Sotar AB.  I've not used it yet, in fact it sort of intimidates me.  The Model H is just so damned simple and robust, while that Sotar looks to be quite delicate and complex.  Have any of you used a Sotar, and do you have any advice/suggestions for it?

Gary

Don't know why we Paasche users are the minority Philo426. I've pushed so much paint and ink thru my VL over the years that it should be in the AB graveyard, but it still works fine. Sure, I've replaced needles and tips and even the air valve. That's the case with any tool.

I also enjoy my "toddler" Talon (it's only a few years old) but sprays fine line to broad coverage, cleans up easily and has good balance. I also have a Badger 200G which works well sometimes and has fussy little teflon seals, so it doesn't see much work.

I know that most of the Forum regulars are loyal to other brands, and I respect their preferences. Just wanted to chime in with my experience while we're enjoying this topic once again.

Mike

I like my Paasche VL.With the #3 top it can do fine cammo to spraying large models with ease.Easy to clean and easy to find parts .Michael s and Pat Cattons carries most common parts so if is Sunday and the hobby shops are closed you can get what you need and crank up the compressor.

I have the Badger 100LG, with F- M - L needle/nozzle sizes, the 100G, (which is the small cup for very small jobs,) and the Patriot 105. All do a fine job, quick and easy to clean. I think gravity fed brushes are the easiest and fastest to clean.

My Iwata is a bit more "fiddly," due to the smaller component sizes, but still a fine AB.

Patrick 

 

CaptainJack

Sorry for replying to an old thread, but I use a Badger Patriot 105 and it is super-easy to clean, not to mention being a damn fine tool to boot. I can spray damn near anything through it and it has become a valuable tool in my arsenal. I was a single-action guy (Paasche-H) before getting the Badger and I use to think I'd never buy a double-action, but after using the Badger for a year now I have to say that it far surpasses my Paasche-H in every way.

 

I agree in every way. I'm currently looking for another A/B to do fine lines, and figure it would probably be easiest to get another Badger with a fine tip.

 

 

not harder and steenbeck!

Ease of cleaning is why I will be replacing my Badger 200 (SA) that recently died of old age (it was over forty years old).  Even though I have a 150, the 200 was so easy to strip for a thorough cleaning that I loved using it for any job that didn't really require a DA.

 

Sorry for replying to an old thread, but I use a Badger Patriot 105 and it is super-easy to clean, not to mention being a damn fine tool to boot. I can spray damn near anything through it and it has become a valuable tool in my arsenal. I was a single-action guy (Paasche-H) before getting the Badger and I use to think I'd never buy a double-action, but after using the Badger for a year now I have to say that it far surpasses my Paasche-H in every way.

I love my Iwata eclipse hp-cs. Granted is my first and only air brush so I have no way to compare it to others but it was very easy to learn to use and easy to clean.

John

Badger Krome hands down

I've used the "abbreviated" cleaning that you describe (I have the same Iwata), and while it is expedient I believe it still leaves paint residue in the needle path to some degree, which I would just as soon avoid.  Maybe being a bit too careful, I got into the habit of breaking everything down--- and it was a pain in the ass--- until I got the Infinity.  It's so simple (and faster) to breakdown and clean, I just do it now as a matter of course.  I think one of the reasons H&S made the Infinity so easy to take apart is to accommodate the interchangable needle/nozzle sets which range from .15mm to .60mm.

Tom    

TB6088

One of the things I like about my H&S Infinity is how easy it is to break down and clean.  Like you, I learned it was best to break an airbrush down completely and thoroughly clean between every color change---

I guess that I would not be using the airbrush much if I have to "break an airbrush down completely and thoroughly clean between every color change".

It is not necessary to do that with my Iwata HP-CS. I flush clean in between colors. A back flushing and careful wiping of the needle at the end of each day is all it needs. Besides, it minimize wear and tear of the airbrush too.

TB6088

One of the things I like about my H&S Infinity is how easy it is to break down and clean.

It's a walk in the park & there isn't much room for error.

One of the things I like about my H&S Infinity is how easy it is to break down and clean.  Like you, I learned it was best to break an airbrush down completely and thoroughly clean between every color change--- I use flushing with alcohol or laquer thinner depending on the type of paint, and clean the entire needle path with small brushes.  The Infinity has removable color cups, and a nozzle/nozzle cap assembly that can be removed easily by hand without the need for tiny wrenches or special tools, so it only takes me 6 minutes +- to break everything down, clean and reassemble.  I haven't used a whole lot of different airbrushes, but I have used a Paashe, a Badger, and 3 Iwata's before I got the Infinity, and I don't use any of the others anymore.  Ease of cleaning is only one of the reasons.

Tom      

The 1 day bath of brake fluid worked and the airbrush is spray fine. The rubber washers are fine. I don't believe brake fluid will attack them.

Badger Krome. Better than my Iwata HP-CS by a long way.

I have been using my Badger 150 for many years and have had no cleanup problems.

The Peak C-5 is another good quality clone of the Japanese general purpose airbrush. Same design as Rich AB-300, Iwata HP-C or Olympos HP-100C. The Grex XG is another.
The Peak probably has rubber o-ring needle packing, so leaving it in brake fluid isn't recommended.

I've owned them all, and never had any real problem keeping them clean. I used to tear them down completly, but has even stopped doing that. With proper cleaning procedure, they should be manageable for anyone.
After you finish your painting session:
• Pour out all paint leftovers, and clean out as much as possible with thinner of choice and a brush and q-tip. Cup and nozzle cap.
• Spray thinner until clear. Cycle the mechanism several times.
• Backflush with thinner until clear.
• Repeat these two steps a couple of times, replacing the thinner as it gets dirty.
• Remove the needle and clean it if necessary.
• If you feel like it, flush and backflush again.

Doing this, I havn't had to disassemble any of my airbrushes the last years.
Another trick is to wax the airbrush and it's parts with silicon free car wax. Both lubricates and makes the paint less prone to stick to the metal surfaces.

I don't know much about the Peak, or what other airbrushes you have owned.  But, the Badger Patriot is the easiest double action brush to clean that I have come across.  A lot of airbrushes have a narrow channel between the needle seal and bowl where paint can build up.  In the Patriot, the needle bearing is very close to the bowl, and easy to clean.  The nozzle is big enough to handle easily and just pops out.  If you can't keep a Patriot clean, you're doing something wrong.

Maybe your nozzle or needle is just worn out.  Paint is somewhat abrasive, and they do wear.  You might try just replacing them.  It's not a bad idea to have a spare anyway.  If the Peak has those tiny o-rings in the head, that might be the problem too.

Don