Clear coats

Where are you guys getting TS-13? I swear by the stuff for my cars but it's illegal to sell in the states now ; ;

randypandy831

only clear i use is future and alclad. alclad is enamel based i believe so, i can't do oil washes without it killing the finish. not sure who makes a lacquer clear in a bottle.  

wait, model master makes a lacquer based clear coat in a bottle. the bottled tamiya cleared isn't lacquer based like their TS line. 

i use only TS-13 now. it dries rock solid and can handle anything thrown at it. 

I use Testors dullcote and glosscote, just decanting from the spray can into a jar, then airbrushing.

I didn't notice any mention of polyurethane varnish.  I have used it and it works okay.  It can be covered by enamels, and works over both acrylics and enamels.  One advantage is that there is a semi-matt available in several brands.  It comes in both brush cans and spray cans. The regular cans for brushing are pretty thick, so I cut it one to one with mineral spirits.  I have used the hardware store clear acrylic in spray cans- works okay but those nozzles are big fire hoses and it really puts on a thick coat.

randypandy831

only clear i use is future and alclad. alclad is enamel based i believe so, i can't do oil washes without it killing the finish. not sure who makes a lacquer clear in a bottle.  

Doesn't Testor's still offer DullCote and GlossCote in bottles?  I know I used to use that years ago.  It was definitely lacquer, as I still recall the smell.

only clear i use is future and alclad. alclad is enamel based i believe so, i can't do oil washes without it killing the finish. not sure who makes a lacquer clear in a bottle.  

I have not used Testors Clear out of the bottles, only the rattle can stuff. I f you already have the Microscale stuff, try some test applications before you toss it. I may have just had a bad batch. Their decal set and solvent are very good. I have been using that for well over 20 years now and like I said above, the only bad results show up years later with the rattle can top coats. Personally I prefer airbrushing clear to rattle cans because one gets much better control over the application. The enamel ones I use I have thinned with Model Master airbrush thinner. In the various acrylics: Gunze, Polly Scale, etc.  I usually use the matching brands own thinner due to the differing formulations for acrylic paints with each brand. No such animal as a universal thinner with acrylics.

Hmm thats a let down on the Microsol! I was hoping it would be a good product, im reluctant to use it now. I have used thier Micro-Sol and Micro-Set with good results before.

So and Humbrol Matt or Satin Clear  is the way to go you say, I may give it a try. Have you tried Testors Clear before?

Whats it like airbrushing clear, i have never attempted it before, and what exactly can you thin it with?

I can't speak for the hardware store stuff. But my few uses of Microscale top coats have been disasters. No matter how I thinned it and what I thinned it with, it came out terrible and almost caused me to toss the model. Instead I tossed the nearly full bottles of the Micro product. I would say practice on soemthing scrap or old first before you use it on a real build. I stick with my tried and true methods of Future for Gloss Coat, and Humbrol Matt or Satin Clear thinned with Model Master Airbrush Tinner for top coats with those finishes. Those have given me my best results. Model Master rattle can clear coats tend to get an amber tone over the years I have seen on my older builds. And interact with the decal solutions as well leaving "tide marks" that appear over time. I have yet to have that happen with Future/Humbrol. Or other top coats such as Gunze, Polly Scale, or Aeromaster that I have used over the years.