Chrome Plate Removal

I use Kitchen bleach and a tooth brush for hard to get to areas.

I have had good luck using formula 409. It occurred to me that the labeling says to avoid getting the cleaner on aluminum surfaces. I found that the plating has a clear coat that the cleaner has to eat through first. Once the coating has been disolved, the plating comes off fairly quickly. I found that scrubbing with an old toothbrush helps remove the coating. My results have been as short as 15 minutes and as long as two days. Put enough cleaner in a pan to completely cover the sprue. Wear gloves when handling the parts. The cleaner will pull the oils out of your skin and become very painful.

I used MadModelFactory's technique just last week, and it worked like a charm!!! I've de-chromed 4 kits since learning of it!!!

I personally have had great results using PineSol.




Gip Winecoff

Hello, and sorry for my bad english. The best method is the liquid for unblock pipes. In five minuts the crome is out. Avoid skin contact, use gloves .

Peppp61,
Welcome to our forum! Your english is fine. I think the material you are referring to would either be Drano or Liquid Plummer, and I would agree that they are the best in terms of time saved, but are the absolute worst in terms of hazard potential. These classes of materials contain very powerful corrosives, are much more hazardous to use and therefore pose a greater risk of injury to those who would use them. In addition to corrosive hazards, mixing with water may cause a significant exothermic reaction: The solution gets really HOT! (It may cause plastic warpage.) Personally, I think avoiding the potential for problems by soaking an extra hour or so in less hazardous materials is worth it.

Gip Winecoff

Simple Green works very well too. Just soak for a few hours and done. You may still need an old toothbrush for the hard to get areas.

This stuff is awesome:



Mike

I didn't know there were so many ways to remove this stuff. Thanks for all the tips. I will definitely try them out.

QUOTE: Originally posted by styrene Peppp61, Welcome to our forum! Your english is fine. I think the material you are referring to would either be Drano or Liquid Plummer, and I would agree that they are the best in terms of time saved, but are the absolute worst in terms of hazard potential. These classes of materials contain very powerful corrosives, are much more hazardous to use and therefore pose a greater risk of injury to those who would use them. In addition to corrosive hazards, mixing with water may cause a significant exothermic reaction: The solution gets really HOT! (It may cause plastic warpage.) Personally, I think avoiding the potential for problems by soaking an extra hour or so in less hazardous materials is worth it. Gip Winecoff

If you take minimal precaution , danger is also minimal. Take a small plastic container, add liquid, take piece with clamps , or with hand if you have gloves, submerge it and after, the liquid can be out without problems: the amount of NaOH in this type liquids for home users is small, the reaction with water is minimal or absent. I have clear out chrome in a couple of pieces several years ago without problems. Liquid clean for oven (i don´t know if "oven" is correct word) is also dangerous, product for clean "fats" also have corrosive agents!!

Peppp61

I've also tried using Formula 409, but it didn't seem to work!! Then again I only had one reference, Terry Jessie's book on modeling and detailing car models, it said it would only take a few minuetes, so I'll try again letting more time to soak and a tooth brush!!!