Airbrush + compressor help please

keveuh

- Neo cn for Iwata for 70€

- Iwata revolution CR for 125€

- Paasche Talon with accessories like hose for 120€

- Paasche H202 set for 100€

From your lineup, the Revolution CR would be my choice, it's a good, solid & versatile airbrush. The H&S Evolution or Evolution Silverline may also be worth consideration - these come in at about the same price as the Revolution CR.

keveuh

Now for the compressor, that's mostly here I'm lost, I don't know I have to take one with a tank, if a "non airbrush made compressor" is too big and noisy for my appartement use, etc... but that's what I found here:

http://www.biltema.fi/sv-fi/Verktyg/Tryckluft/Kompressor/Kompressor-OL-15-6-17637/

http://tuontitukku.fi/tuote/kompressori-kyn%C3%A4ruiskulle/6419773646195/

http://tuontitukku.fi/tuote/kompressori-einhell-bt-ac-230-24-edullinen!/4006825566772/

I would suggest that either of the larger "tool" compressors would more than likley be too noisey for use in an apartment. The second compressor you have linked to would be far more suitable - shopping around may find something similar for less;

 http://shop.wiltec.info/index.php/cat/c461_Airbrush-Compressors.html

keveuh

the output connector is quick connect type and I guess this is not compatible with typical airbrush hose, or what ?

Correct, the quick connect will be an air tool type & far larger than an airbrush QC.

The Neo CN puts out way to little paint to be a good airbrush for model cars.  The other 3 are fine.  Some very good car modelers use the Paasche H.  The CR is a great general purpose airbrush, but the Talon will go both finer and wider with its selection of nozzles.  I will also put in a plug for my favorite, the Badger 155 Anthem.

Don

Thank you both for your answers, I've read some of the articles of your blog Don, very well written and explained.

I'm still thinking though if I should get an aribrush or not, it can get quite expensive with all that's needed. For exampe I was wondering: let's say I need to paint a car interior white or yellow, a bright color, and the plastic is black. Will the paint cover enough to really reach its color or should I need primer always ? I would use Tamiya acrylics in that case.

keveuh

For exampe I was wondering: let's say I need to paint a car interior white or yellow, a bright color, and the plastic is black. Will the paint cover enough to really reach its color or should I need primer always ? I would use Tamiya acrylics in that case.

In that case what kind of undercoat should I use ?

And what are good paints to use for bodies ? I was recommended Zero Paints of course and Mr color lacquers ? Any other ?

Red and yellow colors will cover better and look more vivid over a white undercoat.  

Gary

White, light grey & silver all work well for undercoating light colors.

With good surface preparation & careful application,most acrylics will adhere satisfactorily without a primer, so it's possible to use your regular acrylics as a base-coat. Light silver can work very well, it covers without issue & is easily overcoated by weaker colors.

Thanks for the help people. I finally found a airbrush compressor with a tank here in Finland, on the same website they sell either chinese airbruhses or H&S airbrushes. Thay have some Silverline but the needle seems very small, they do sell also bigger needles on the same website, but a H&S Silverline brush + extra needle would cost me a little more than an Iwata HP CR, don't know if it's worth it.

About paint, I thought about buying Tamiya thinner to thin their acrylics, but I dont know what to use as cleaner. I cannot buy 90% alcohol here and I don't find Isopropol either, so I wonder what else could I use ? Is window cleaner + water a good thing to clean airbrush after tamiya acylics ?

The Evolution Silverline is supplied with a 0.2mm needle/nozzle set & to my mind anyway this is H&S's most versatile needle / nozzle set, it can do fine detail & also give reasonable coverage. If you were to decide on getting the Silverline & an extra needle set, the Evolution Silverline 2 in 1 kit comes with both 0.2 + 0.4mm sets as well as 2 + 5ml paint cups & should come in slightly cheaper than buying a Solo with an extra needle/nozzle set.

The Revolution CR's 0.5mm nozzle is also pretty versatile, it isn't quite as good at detail but does offer better coverage than the H&S 0.2mm set. To confuse matters further the CR can be fitted with optional 0.3mm parts (Needle, needle cap, nozzle  & nozzle cap) as fitted to the Revolution BR to get a more detail orientate brush - price wise having the CR & the 0.3mm parts will set you back about the same as a Silverline 2 in 1 set.............

Regards cleaning with Tamiya acrylics, regular liquid airbrush cleaner will work fine. Although somewhat stronger, Methylated spirits (denatured alcohol, the pink stuff) is inexpensive & very effective.

Thank you Milairjunkie, I can get the Evolution silverline 2 in 1 kot for 149€, which one would oyu recommend then ? Iwata vs H&S ? Are they equal ?

About cleaning airbrush, does airbrush cleaner "pro color" brand would work to clean tamiya acrylics ? Even other paints ?

I'd really like to switch all my paints to Vallejo air, cause of distilled water thinnig and plain water cleaning. But for bodies I'll have to stick with either Zero paints, Tamiya TS or Mr color lacquers. For Zero paints that fine, because they sell theit own thinner/cleaner. For Tamiya TS they don't need thinning, mr color have their thinner, but then to clean Tamiya TS/mr color what should I use ? Lacquer thinner I've read I think, but then again where am I gonna get that ?

So much headaches thinking about all these cleaning / thinning products with airbrushes....

Hi Keveuh,

keveuh

Thank you Milairjunkie, I can get the Evolution silverline 2 in 1 kot for 149€, which one would oyu recommend then ? Iwata vs H&S ? Are they equal ?

About cleaning airbrush, does airbrush cleaner "pro color" brand would work to clean tamiya acrylics ? Even other paints ?

I'd really like to switch all my paints to Vallejo air, cause of distilled water thinnig and plain water cleaning. But for bodies I'll have to stick with either Zero paints, Tamiya TS or Mr color lacquers. For Zero paints that fine, because they sell theit own thinner/cleaner. For Tamiya TS they don't need thinning, mr color have their thinner, but then to clean Tamiya TS/mr color what should I use ? Lacquer thinner I've read I think, but then again where am I gonna get that ?

So much headaches thinking about all these cleaning / thinning products with airbrushes....

Milairjunkie knows much more about airbrushes than do I and it was largely a result of his response to one my questions that I bought an Evolution Silverline. Based on my experience using both,  I'd recommend the Evolution 2+1 over the Iwata for the reasons he posted above - ability for both finer detail and larger area coverage in one airbrush. My Evolution is the AB I use most.

As far as various thinners, I use acrylics mostly and use a 'home brew' thinner from a formula I found on the internet and use 'Super Clean' or 'Purple Power" to deep clean my AB.

Thanks Bick, if I take an airbrush I'll take the Silverline. And for cleaners after research I found that car window washer would work for acrylics, and I think something with acetone in would go to clean lacquers, hopefully.

keveuh

Iwata vs H&S ? Are they equal ?

Both are excellent airbrushes, but given the choice I would plump for the H&S - it's got a range of needle / nozzle & paint cup sizes available for it & the drop in / self centering nozzle design makes cleaning & stripping a snap.

In the CR's favour it comes with a paint cup lid in the box & has a slightly tighter feeling trigger with adjustable tension.

Don Wheeler has reviews of the Revolution CR & the Evolution Solo on his site that may help you. The Evolution Silverline is the Evolution with the gold plated / rubber grip ring replaced with a solid metal piece & has "Paint Volume Control" on the rear body (it's an adjustable needle travel limiter which allows easily repeatable paint flow if required).

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/

keveuh

About cleaning airbrush, does airbrush cleaner "pro color" brand would work to clean Tamiya acrylics? Even other paints?

Pro-Color is fine with most, if not all acrylics, but wont work for the likes of enamels.

i been using my HP-CR "revolution" for almost a year now with 0 problems. it does everything i need and even more. well worth the $$$.

paasche does make some nice pieces but found my talon a pain to clean and felt it just wasn't up to standards compared to my revolution witch was cheaper in price.

you can also look into badger. they make awesome brushes from what i've heard over the years. you can find a 150 or 200 for fairly cheap these days.

all in all, it comes down to personal preference. just narrow it down and go from there.

I have ordered my gear now. I took a AS186 compressor with a tank, and I took an Iwata HP CR airbrush from Hiroboy. I decided the Iwata would be bettre than the Silverline Evo because of the bigger needle. I guess it will be easier to thin paint with the HP CR and maybe more forgiving too.

I hope I won't regret it.

Thanks for the help.

good choice! you won't be let down.