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Removing fingertips

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Removing fingertips
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 12, 2004 1:36 AM
Hi to everybody,
My name is Dimitris and I live in Greece. Although I have been building plastic models for a number of years there are many things that I don't know.
For instance, what is the best technique and material for removing accidental fingertips from a model? Question [?]
Does it work the same on gloss as well as flat finishes?Question [?]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 12, 2004 1:41 AM
Welcome to FSM!
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Thursday, February 12, 2004 1:50 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Dimitris

For instance, what is the best technique and material for removing accidental fingertips from a model? Question [?]


Huh? Confused [%-)]

Mike

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 12, 2004 1:54 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by MikeV

QUOTE: Originally posted by Dimitris

For instance, what is the best technique and material for removing accidental fingertips from a model? Question [?]


Huh? Confused [%-)]

Mike


I think he means accidental fingerprints left in the paint or something similar.

Best option of course is to never touch wet paint, or strip the paint and redo.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 12, 2004 2:14 AM
Not touching wet paint is obvious. However fingertips stain even parts that have been painted days ago and is quite a hassle to repaint them. What do you do then?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 12, 2004 4:09 AM
What paints are you using?

Did you wash and prime your Models?

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: The flat lands of the Southeast
Posted by styrene on Thursday, February 12, 2004 5:48 AM
Personally, I think about the only option is to take a very fine grade of sandpaper, sand lightly, and then re-spray with your basecoat.

In the future, allow the paint to dry thoroughly (couple of days) prior to touching your model. In addition, wear gloves during painting, and/or rig your kit during painting so you won't have to touch it.

By the way, welcome to the FSM forum family.

Gip Winecoff

1882: "God is dead"--F. Nietzsche

1900: "Nietzsche is dead"--God

  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by shermanfreak on Thursday, February 12, 2004 1:46 PM
Welcome to FSM Demitris. Fingerprints can be a problem even after the paint has dried. The best thing to do has already been suggested, and that's to use gloves after your model has been painted.
Happy Modelling and God Bless Robert
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Thursday, February 12, 2004 2:05 PM
I agree with the other comments, especially when it comes to gloss paints.
They can remain tacky for a few days.
Use the old test of "If you can smell any paint smell then it is not fully cured." Wink [;)]

Mike

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 12, 2004 2:11 PM
If wet paint is not the issue then washing your hands often might help if the fingerprints are from skin oils...
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 12, 2004 11:22 PM
I agree with everyone here Dimitris, as I've had problems with flat black, and silver seeming to rub off, if I touch it with my greasy fingers, even if I wash my hands thoroughly, and literally days later. My solution is to wear gloves, and to spray future on parts that I have to "manhandle', and then use a flat coat as necessary, when I'm sure I won't touch the parts ever again!!! BTW, welcome to the family!!!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 13, 2004 1:39 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by MadModelFactory

What paints are you using?
Did you wash and prime your Models?


I use Gunze acrylics. The problem is more evident on flat black.
No, Ididn't prime. What color works best as a primer? Silver?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 13, 2004 1:48 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Dimitris
I use Gunze acrylics. The problem is more evident on flat black.
No, Ididn't prime. What color works best as a primer? Silver?


Gunze acrylics should be try within a few hours at the most, even if you apply a thick layer of paint with a brush.

No, you best use a primer.
There are many different primers out there, some even use automotive primers for cars. Gunze, Tamiya, etc they all make their own primers which tend to be a bit on the pricy side.
Many will tell you that plastic models don't need to be primed, but you will get a better end-result of you do.

As the other recommended try to get hold of some surgical gloves or similar and try to handle the parts as little as possible and topcoat between paint layers.

Nothing else I can think of right now.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 13, 2004 1:53 AM
One thing.

What did you use to thin the paint?

And did you airbrush or brush it on?

Ok, make that 2 things.
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