Tamiya clear

Actually, according to Tamiya, X-22 is to be mixed with flats to give a gloss finish, not as a "clear coat" directly.

I know folks who have successfully used it just as a clear finish with success. I know of others who have not.

Do not spray Tamiya clear coat over decals as it is lacquer based and too hot for them.  It will dissolve/distort them if you are not careful!

I have not noticed any yellowing with the Tamiya clears I have sprayed.

Gunze makes some clear sprays that have a UV inhibitor in them.

thanks for the info guys much appreciated. I'll just stick to my standard then and use the Tamiya spray lacquer clears over the acryllics. I Havnt really had a problem with them. The paint has had plenty of days to dry.

Does the Tamiya Clear in the cans yellow after a few years?

Cant wait to show the model off once its done!

Hi  Mig 29

I use both Acrylics & Enamels but am starting to prefer solvent based acrylics & water based acrylics. I mention these 3 as all are are somewhat different with respect to thinning & air pressure setting.

I have tried the Tamiya X-22 with their X-20A thinner with no problems. I am also especially fond of Floquil Flat finish (enamel) which always comes out a bit satiny for me.... Satiny is that a word??

Another popular "clear" used by many modelers is Future floor finish (acrylic) sometimes refered to as " Klear". Usually shot straight from the bottle unless you have a very small needle/nozzle setup in you A/B. You can flatten a bit as well.

I'm sorry I have an old bottle & brain & cannot remember exactly what it says.

Most other clears you will have to thin with the appropriate thinner. Give this careful consideration, both on brand & as far as how much to add, you will have to set a starting point such as 2/3 paint & 1/3 thinner & adjust for your particular brush & size of surface.

The Tamiya clears you mention should spray fine with their X-20A.

Caution is advised when spraying lacquers & solvent based acrylics over enamels. It can wrinkle the paint if not cured.

If you, can use semi gloss paint it could save you from the extra gloss step for decals/weathering, at least it has worked for me quite well in the last few builds. I have been usin Mr Color paints which are slovent based acrylic or so says on of the bottle labels.

I would recommend to test these over your diffrent paint colors &or clear coats as the final sheen can be affected by previous clears .

You may find as your experience grows that you can change your mind on what you prefer. I can remember thinking spray cans were like fire hoses & now I use them almost exclusively for clear coats.

Sorry if you already know all this...Good luckSteve

I have used Testor's or Model Master (same thing) clear gloss lacquer and clear semi-gloss lacquer right out of the rattle cans.  Let the acrylic paint cure fully by letting it dry at least 48 hours, and you'll have no problems.  I have done this many times and the paints are compatible.

Spray very lightly to avoid runs.  You can always add a second coat the next day if needed.