Airbrush question....

You can also adjust the Badger 360 in such a way that in effect you end up using it as a single action airbrush. That can ease you into getting a hang of the airbrush.

Another thing is to be patient. Don't rush in trying to cover everything in one coat. Trying to cover everything in one coat can lead to running paint. You can do multiple light coats to get a good finish.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Jeeves rotfl!! Thanks guys... I guess I better get her out of the bubble wrap

That's a sweet airbrush Mike.
Let us know if you have any questions and we will try and help.

Mike

QUOTE: Originally posted by Jeeves 2. I need something to sit my model on so I can paint it-- I know some people use wire hangers, but is there any reference sites or pictures that someone might have of a "paint stand" or a way to bend the wire to make an effective stand?? As it is, I am trying to paint both top and bottom sides to get the paint on and then don't know where or how to set the model down for drying-- should I just paint one side at a time??

Tamia sells a set of paint stands:

1.) Stand 1 is for Car bodies and holds the Body up using spring wires.
2.) Stand 2 is a generic round table with holes and clips for holding smaller parts and to put larger assemblies on.

Some people also use revolving cake stands or similar or use a dense foam to hold parts up that are transfixed on a wire or similar.

I have seen the foam often used by large scale figure builders.

rotfl!! Thanks guys... I guess I better get her out of the bubble wrap

Greg Williams,

Did you paint that AC while practicing using your 360?

QUOTE: Originally posted by plasticmod992 First of all, I would be so bold as to tell you to ditch the Testors brush and get out the Badger 360 as soon as you can. I have experience with it, and can tell you that you have a very excellent, capable, user-friendly airbrush on your hands that will make life alot easier for you both in performance as well as maintanence. The 360 AB is as you are probubaly well aware is one of the most unique, and among one of the fastest and easiest AB out there to clean-due in large part to it's design. The learning curve isn't all that difficult...with some practice you'll start to really understand the double action control fast and it will show in your work! I've used both the Badger Anthem and 360 and love them

I'm with Greg as I have both of these airbrushes also and the 360 is indeed an awesome airbrush that you should learn to use. Just don't drop it on it's tip as the needle is exposed and it will bend if dropped.

I have a great idea:

How about wrapping some tape around that Testors airbrush, stick it into the opening of the aircraft's engine compartment, and use it as a holding stick while you paint it with the Badger 360?

Mike

First of all, I would be so bold as to tell you to ditch the Testors brush and get out the Badger 360 as soon as you can. I have experience with it, and can tell you that you have a very excellent, capable, user-friendly airbrush on your hands that will make life alot easier for you both in performance as well as maintanence. The 360 AB is as you are probubaly well aware is one of the most unique, and among one of the fastest and easiest AB out there to clean-due in large part to it's design. The learning curve isn't all that difficult...with some practice you'll start to really understand the double action control fast and it will show in your work! I've used both the Badger Anthem and 360 and love them next to my Iwata brushes. For examples of painting aids such as using wire coat hangers to make stands and such, look through back issues of FSM, your bound to run into an article or photo, as this is "tool" is so very common nowadays. For aircraft some modelers simply bend the wire hanger in a shape that makes it easy to slide into say... a exhaust opening or an area on the fuselage where the wire will fit, etc. Some Auto and Railroad modelers sometimes shape the wire into a "balance beams" shape with the ends glued into a 1ft section of 2x4 wood as a paint stand. Some books that I recommend that illustrate the use of paint stands and other painting aids are: "Painting And Finishing scale Models" By: Paul Boyer, "How to us an Airbbrush" By: Bob Downie. So dig out those back issues, get your Badger 360 out and a scrap model or sheet of styrene and spray away! Like others have mentioned; practice, practice, practice...have fun with it, you've got all the right tools at your finger tip!

QUOTE: Originally posted by MusicCity [brMy hand movements aren't that graceful either, and I have found that keeping the quantity of paint low keeps me from making as many mistakes.

QUOTE: I begin spraying off model and try to move in smooth motions, but seem to not be too consistent with the thickness of the coat....and get some spots with paint running off the model in drops. I seem to be getting a little better- but could use some help with my gracefullness

I am probably NOT the person to be answering this because nobody in their right mind would every say I'm proficient with an airbrush. But I have found a couple of things that seem to be helping.

1) Practice. Practice a lot. Then practice some more. Shoot paint until you are sick or smelling it. There is no substitute for practice.

2) Airbrush even the small parts. This relates to #1 and gives you yet some more practice. It also makes your model look better!

3) If your paint is running then it is either too thin, you are painting too close or with too much air pressure or too much paint volume, or you stopped moving your hand. I paint at about 15 psi from about 3" away and the paint volume is set so low that it's hard to see what's coming out unless there is good contrast between the color of the paint and the parts. My hand movements aren't that graceful either, and I have found that keeping the quantity of paint low keeps me from making as many mistakes.

QUOTE: 2. I need something to sit my model on so I can paint it-- I know some people use wire hangers, but is there any reference sites or pictures that someone might have of a "paint stand" or a way to bend the wire to make an effective stand?? As it is, I am trying to paint both top and bottom sides to get the paint on and then don't know where or how to set the model down for drying-- should I just paint one side at a time??

I do mostly airplane models, and I have a couple of styrofoam blocks I use for a paint stand. I san sit the plane on just one of them, or put one under each wnig tip. Also, I only paint one side at a time. When that side is dry I paint the other side.

QUOTE: I actually did get a new airbrush for Christmas- a Badger 360- but am afraid to use it, I am ashamed to say. For a couple reasons... mainly because I am so awkward with the cheap Testors brush, I am hesitant to try to start using the double action brush until I become more proficient with the Testors brush....and then the main reason-- I don't want to get the airbrush dirty and ruin it by not doing a good job cleaning it....mainly-- if I take the brush apart, will I be able to put it back together again.... is there any sites available with a good tutorial for cleaning the Badger 360??

If you haven't become proficient with the single action brush, now is probably the best time to start learning the double action. You won't have to change your technique as much and it will give you a lot more control over what you are doing. After all, when you learned to drive you don't just start with the gas and learn the steering part later

Badger's documentation is not that great, admittedly. The first time I took my Omni apart it was more trial and error than anything else. I'm not familiar with the 360, but I'm sure someone will chime in who is. There aren't a lot of parts in them, so I'd recommend laying the parts ona piece of cardboard as you remove them. Start on the left, and as you take each part off lay it next to the last one. To reassemble, just go backwards.