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masking and painting canopys

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  • Member since
    March 2011
masking and painting canopys
Posted by Josy11 on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 1:58 PM

HI All,

Getting back into modelling again and about to start my second "practice" kit, a 1:32 Fw 190, that I have 2 copies of for some long ago forgotten reason. Anyways, since I also possess a canopy paint mask set from Eduard, I thought I would give it a whirl. I have some questions though, that might seem a bit obvious(I.E. dumb), but I have to ask

1) What side (interior, exterior) of the canopy do the mask go? - the "framework" around the clear portion is mostly on the inside - does the masks go on inside, or do the go on outside

2) Answer to #1 above should then dictate which side gets painted correct?

3) I have read to first spray interior color, then exterior color on masked canopy - Is this because it will show interior color if canopy viewed from inside angle?

4) I have heard some other posts mention to polish the canopy - what and how is that done?

 

5) Finally, I have future and and wondering the sequence for polish, future, paint, flat clear, weathering

 

Any suggestions and help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Joe

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: England
Posted by P mitch on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 2:58 PM

Joe

simple answers are

1, I put them on the outside much easier

2, yes

3,yes interior first let it dry then exterior

4, you can polish a canopy (I never have) but you will need very fine grain to do it. You could try something like Tamiya's finishing polish, but I've never don't this so cant say 100%

5, after my answer to above I've have to say future paint then future again, I don't flat canopies as i think they look better with some shine to them

Phil

"If anybody ever tells you anything about an aeroplane which is so bloody complicated you can't understand it, take it from me: it's all balls." R J Mitchell


  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, December 12, 2012 8:56 AM

As far as polishing the canopy,  I generally do not unless I want to depict a plane absolutely fresh from the factory.  Plexiglas weathers quickly from UV sunlite, and isn't very scratch resistant. If I do want to represent a pristine canopy, dipping it in Future before hand saves a lot of polishing, and does the same thing.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    October 2009
Posted by STJohnson on Wednesday, December 12, 2012 11:35 AM

The only time I polish a canopy is if I have had to remove a seam line by scraping it down.  ie: the Tamiya Mustang Canopy's had a line I had to remove. ...... I ended up using the Novus polishing sytem which worked well.

However the "future" wet finish would not stick to the canopy afterwards, so I ended up using some Alclad Klear instead...curious???

  • Member since
    August 2012
Posted by AndrewW on Thursday, December 13, 2012 2:39 PM

Joe,

if you do HAVE to polish a canopy (maybe getting rid of a seam line or flash) I use the following process: sanding with 600, 1000, 2000 grit automotive papers.  Next, I'll use a bit of brasso on a q tip and polish with that.  Finally, I'll use some toothpaste with a damp (not wet) q tip and polish with that.  Now it looks like crap and you're thinking what have I done, it's all foggy and it looked better before.  All part of the process. Next, I'll have a small container of Future, tweezers and a paintbrush.  Dip the canopy holding it with the tweezers, lift and use the brush to help the excess off.  Sometimes, though not often, I'll let it stand for a second on a paper towel to get rid of the excess.  Then, I have prepared an old margarine lid (or something similar, plastic and round) with a 'grid' of flat toothpicks laid out on it.  You're trying to make a bed to rest the canopy on so the future doesn't stick to the margarine lid, and I've found it peels away easily from the toothpicks.  Lay the canopy on its' bed, and cover it.  An upside down bowl works well for this, depending on size.  Anything domed that will cover it.  Last, make sure the cover is lifted slightly in one area (a toothpick underneath one spot) to allow it to breathe.  The cover keeps dust and hairs (I live with two dogs, there's a lot of hair around) from settling into the Future and drying in and making it look awful.  The really hard part is to leave it for 48 hours undisturbed.  The first time I did this, I kept thinking of how awful and scratched up it looked, and wanted to check if it was getting better, resist the urge.  You'll be amazed at how it went from foggy and crappy to new looking.

Life is hard, it's even harder when you're stupid - John Wayne.


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