Dilluting/thinning of paint and airbrush cleaning questions

Ditto on Phil's comments. I almost exclusively use Model Master and Tamiya acrylics to keep the fumes down and make clean-up a lot easier.  

For those paints I use the vendors' thinners (and in the case of MM, their cleaner as well) during my spray sessions.  I have a couple of the little bottles with the red tops that can express a drop at a time.  Honestly, I use a LOT of thinner, but a bottle will last me several 1/48 kits.

The thinners work very well and I usually start with about a 20% thinner to 80% paint mixture sometimes going to 50-50 for detail work at higher pressures.  Overall, not really a precise thing:  I start with a few drops of thinner in my Iwata HP-CS (has the attached paint cup) so that un-thinned paint is not the first thing through the nozzle - then add paint, then the rest of the thinner and mix with a square 'toothpick'.  I start spraying on a paper towel until the paint is coming through smoothly, then on to the model.

Clean-up is very simple: a windex or non-foaming ammonia/water solution (25/75%) which cleans out paint and Future equally well.  I empty whatever remaining paint is in the paint cup into a little jar,  use a paper towel to wipe out much of the remaining paint in the cup, then start with the cleaner/ammonia until it sprays clear.

Hope this helps.

I use enamel almost exclusively, very little acrylics.  I thin the paint either with turpentine or mineral spirits (yes, they may be the same thing- just do not use generic "paint thinner", as some of it is really junky).  If I can get Testors airbrush thinner in the half pint can, I do, but my LHS usually doesn't have it.  Yeah, it may seem expensive to some, but paint, even when thinned with that stuff is NOT a major expense in building most models.

For thinning, I do use the mineral spirits/turpentine. It is fine for cleaning brushes or airbrushes. Even for airbrushing, the difference between the Testors thinner and hardware store stuff is small, but I am willing to spend the money for that slight difference.  But it IS too pricey for cleanup.

When I DO use acrylics, I thin and clean with isopropyl alcohol, from drug store or department store.

BlackSheep,

Tamiya is a hybrid acrylic, I've had luck thinning it with a mix of - 30% 70 USP isopropyl alcohol with 70% distilled water, I use this same mix for Model Master acrylics.  I know a lot of folks swear by the brand name thinners. I also know you do not use alcohol for Vallejo acrylics, only water.  I use Windex to clean airbrush parts after spraying acrylics, or to remove acrylic paint.  It contains ammonia, which will remove the acrylic paint.  Another acrylic thinner a lot of folks use is Future (Pledge floor protector with 'Future Shine').  I've not tried this.

Thinning ratios are another consideration, and difficult to put a formula to.  The goal is 'the consistency of 2% milk'.  I use bottles that emit a drop at a time, and slowly add my reducer stirring with a toothpick in the paint cup or separate bottle.  When I have the paint no longer forming a drop on the end of my toothpick, but leaving a thin coating on the toothpick (i.e. not dropping off) I spray.  Now you have to watch your air pressure and trigger.  It's practice.

For enamels, I use Tamiya lacquer thinner for reduction, and hardware store lacquer thinner for cleaning airbrush parts.  The hardware store stuff is much 'hotter' and for this reason I don't use it for reduction or stripping paint.  Especially stripping paint, it will melt and even destroy styrene.  

If I am doing shots of different colors in one session, I run the reducer (thinner) through the brush between colors. I keep shooting until I'm getting only clear reducer out.  I've personally got an Aztek brush, so I can quickly change the nozzles if one gets choked up (I mostly shoot acrylics).  

After each session, I soak my nozzles and paint cup in Windex, and using bottle brushes, toothpicks and q-tips I hand scrub the parts back to clean.  You have to be very careful with needles, you don't want to bend them, and they can be one of the dirtiest parts.  If using enamels, I use the same with the aforementioned lacquer thinner.  The best way I've found to clean feed cups is to soak in the reducer and wipe out with a q-tip.  The toothpicks work well for getting inside the nozzle, as do bottle brushes.  I personally wipe needles VERY CAREFULLY with a tissue or paper towel, towards the point.

Also, you don't want to soak the whole airbrush in the lacquer thinner, especially the hardware store stuff, it will eat out any teflon or rubber inside.

A great investment, depending on your budget and the justification for the amount of use, is an ultrasonic cleaner.  Using water or a soapy water mix, you drop all the parts in the cleaner and let it buzz away.  The sound waves traveling through the water knock all the gunk off the parts.  Again, you don't want to use anything flammable in the ultrasonic bath.  Little jewelry cleaners aren't expensive, but you do have to get a good one (I started with a cheap one from Walmart, and you get what you pay for).

I hope this helps you.  There's a lot to learn about airbrushing and care, and a lot of good videos on the net if you Google airbrush care or cleaning.  

Blacksheep

Nothing wring with asking questions, we all have and we have all made mistakes ( I know I have!)

Personally I like to use the thinner from the same manufacturer as the paint. I know it can cost a bit more but it save me time and problems and I've had enough problems with airbrushing without the worry that there is a chemical reaction between the paint and the thinner.

On cleaning I use water as long as the paint is water based, if not I'll use the thinner or even special airbrush cleaners you can get. In the past couple of months I've also taken to running through some Valllejo Airbrush Cleaner as I've had issue with Tamiya paint just useing water. Other than that I take the needle out and the head off only when I feel the need and run a pipe cleaner through just to make sure but always be careful as I've bent two needles now dropping the airbrush with them still in.

Sure other people will reply with ideas for you but these work for me

Phil