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Noob: Airbrushing acrylics mostly but...

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  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Monday, January 28, 2013 6:19 PM

I agree with that even using Badger equipment.

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Chapin, South Carolina
Posted by Shipwreck on Monday, January 28, 2013 6:04 PM

I used my iwata HP- BCS for the first time today. I use the HP-CS most of the time. I have found that cleaning the BCS is easy. But, how do you manage the bottles? Cleaning out a bottle for each color change takes a lot of time. If you use multiple bottles, $$, then you have to worry about paint drying on the bottles.

On the Bench:

Revell 1/96 USS Constitution - rigging

Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer Prep and research

Trumpeter 1/350 USS Hornet CV-8 Prep and research

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Sunday, January 20, 2013 3:32 PM

Aha. Can you suggest a product / price I should look at?

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by Tankster on Sunday, January 20, 2013 3:02 PM

You just wanna flush it through until the airbrush sprays clear again.  I'd recommend getting a cheap ultrasonic cleaner after your done airbrushing to really clean out the dried paint.  

On The Bench: Dragon  1/35 Jagdtiger Henschel

On Deck: Dragon 1/35 Ferdinand

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 9:10 AM

My airbrush is a siphon feed, so there is a pickup tube.  When I think I have cleaned enough, I touch the bottom of the pickup tube to a kleenex. If the wet spot (from thinner) is clear, I have cleaned enough. If it has any shading of color, clean some more.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Tuesday, January 15, 2013 5:39 PM

Thank you!

  • Member since
    February 2015
Posted by Bick on Tuesday, January 15, 2013 5:34 PM

Hi,

You can spray MM Acryl undiluted with some ABs. I've done so with my Iwata Revolution CR (0.5 mm nozzle) but I'd recommend thinning it, especially for any smaller nozzle. If you want to do fine lines up close at low pressure you'll need to thin it, 50/50 or more. As Montague says, 'light coats, build it up".

For color change cleaning, I do similar to Montague but, using gravity feed AB's I do it a little different:

After first color,

1. Empty first color and put Windex in the cup

2. Spray until no solid color (only Windex is spraying)

3, Dump remainder of Windex

4. Wipe inside of cup with tissue or paper towel

5. More Windex in cup, spray a few seconds and dump

6. Change to new color and spray, first on scrap then model

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Tuesday, January 15, 2013 5:11 PM

Thanks guys!  I'll get some MM thinner.

I use a Badger 360 so better than half of my painting is from the siphon jar FYI if it makes a dif.

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Tuesday, January 15, 2013 5:05 PM

No need to dissasemble the airbrush between colors. Just flush it out and clean the cup good. If you notice dried paint built up on the needle, you might wanna take that out and clean it.

Thin MM acrylics with MM acrylic thinner. I find they dont' need much thinner, otherwise it just runs and spatters all over the place.

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2010
Posted by montague on Tuesday, January 15, 2013 5:05 PM

Hi!

Run acrylic thinner or windex until it is clear, no paint color for a simple color change. Thurough cleaning at the end.

I always thin model master acryl with their thinners about 50/50. Spray light coats and build it up.

  • Member since
    February 2011
Noob: Airbrushing acrylics mostly but...
Posted by Hokey on Tuesday, January 15, 2013 5:01 PM

1) How thorough a cleaning between color changes?

2) Do I need to thin Model Master acrylics? I pretty much use them 100% of the time.

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