Ideal single action airbrush

I'ma noob to airbrushing and own a Bagder dual action. I'm wondering why would "I" want a single action?

In the latest issue of FSM on airbrushing, they discuss the value of covering larger areas using a single action model. It got me to think about that. Perhaps I am misguided on this.

I'm shopping for a SA AB.  I have an Iwata Eclipse, which is an amazing DA AB.  

If you are going to use a SA AB for lots of different tasks, the Iwata SAR is the way to go.  You can't go wrong with Iwata IMO.  

I'll need a SA AB only for a task that doesn't require precision (priming, dull coating). So I'll prorably buy a Badger 350, which sells for under $40.

I think any single action wil suffice, WITH adjustable nozzle, because you more or less can controll the amount of paint that is sprayed. I don't think that there is much difference in brands when it comes to spraying. I think for such a job even the Chinese cheap ones can do the job.

I have a Revell "standard class" which I use for clear coats, and I'm very content with it.

I would recommend the Badger 200. It is bulletproof- I have had mine for about forty years, and the only replacement parts I have purchased are the teflon washers that seal the nozzle area.

As to why have a SA in addition to a DA, the SA is easier to disassemble and re-assemble for cleaning.  The 200 is a very simple brush. I use it as my workhorse for anything that does not need superfine lines or a super-thin coat.

Don,

On the Chicago Airbrush Supply website, they only list the Badger 200G, a gravity feed single action; no 200 model except for the 200NH, which some say to avoid... Would the 200G be suitable for my needs?

The 200G is, as noted, the gravity feed version. It has a smaller, fixed paint cup which may be an issue if you intend to use it for airbrushing large areas. (It may need more frequent refilling than the models with a larger paint jar.)

Wow- I was not aware of the 200 siphon feed biting the dust.  Try checking Badger's own web site.

The Paasche Model H is an old favorite.  How long has that AB been around?  60, 70 years?  It's the only airbrush I own and I've done 40 or more planes and two tanks with mine, in multi-color camo, natural metal finishes and solid colors too.  I have a lot of nerve damage and have very little "fine feeling" in my hands.  I have struggled to learn to use a Paasche Model V double-action AB, but it's really difficult for me to develop the feel for that double-action trigger.  Of course, ymmv.

Gary

Outside of an issue like Gary has I am not sure why you would need a single action. I use a double action with a .2 mm nozzle for virtually everything and I build 1/32 scale aircraft primarily. If I was painting a real plane I might want something bigger. I have a Badger 200 that I haven't used in probably 15 years, maybe 20.

Jay

Go with the Paasche H mines over 40 years old there rugged and hold up good you can get 3 different tip sizes. From very broad coverage to very narrow coverage. You will have better paint control than you would with a double action this is just my 2 cents.   ACESES5                  

Chili

I presently have a H+S Infinity Airbrush. I think I would like to get a "single action" airbrush comparible to the H+S in performance. I have been looking at the Iwata Revolution SAR. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Hi Chili,

Why not just get the 0.4 or 0.6mm needle/nozzle for your Infinity and use the 'quickfix' handle to set the amount of paint. Then just press and pull as far as the trigger will go and spray - not truly single action but will sure give you the performance of the Infinity. The recommendations here are fine - Badger 200, Paasche H, Iwata SAR,  etc - but if you already have the Infinity that's what I'd do (did buy the 0.4mm for my Evolution but don't use it much).

I'm with Tuco on this. There's no real advantage of getting a single action. Use the 0.4mm nozzle, or get a 0.6mm for the Infinity instead. It's not the action type that matters when you do large surfaces.

denstore

I'm with Tuco on this. There's no real advantage of getting a single action. Use the 0.4mm nozzle, or get a 0.6mm for the Infinity instead. It's not the action type that matters when you do large surfaces.

Changing nozzle is always too much a hassle even for the wonderful H&S nozzle design. Besides, their nozzle set is more expensive than most SA AB.

See my post at another thread for a cheap solution.

Paasche H owner here too. Quite reliable, easy to clean,  inexpensive.  

Paasche H.

flyinyak

Paasche H owner here too. Quite reliable, easy to clean,  inexpensive.  

Paasche H owner too. I had one since the early 1980 and did not use it much for 20 years because I could not find an easy way to change color without taking it apart. Too much hassle for multiple color, regular use. YMMV. There are many happy H users on this forum.

Switch to Iwata Eclipse HP-CS 5 years ago and found the Iwata much easier to maintain and easier to learn from. I have purchased several more double action, internal mix airbrushes since, but always go back to the Iwata for most modeling.

If looking for board area general spraying, get a cheap plastic spray gun which does not need disassembly to clean. Just rinse cup and spray clean with thinner.

keilau

flyinyak

Paasche H owner here too. Quite reliable, easy to clean,  inexpensive.  

Paasche H owner too. I had one since the early 1980 and did not use it much for 20 years because I could not find an easy way to change color without taking it apart. Too much hassle for multiple color, regular use. YMMV. There are many happy H users on this forum.

I've found that I don't need to disassemble the "needle and cone" (color adjusting parts) and air cap with each color change.  I will do that periodically, and usually before a coat of clear, but I simply run some appropriate thinner through the airbrush, then insert a thinner-moistened cotton bud into the recess of the needle and twist that around, removing any paint residue in there.  I then clean the paint cup and clean its feed-tube with a moistened pipe cleaner.  That's followed with a bit more clean thinner through the airbrush and I'm good for the next color.  Usually I do a complete break-down cleaning only once per build, but as you said, mileage will vary.  Whatever works best for each of us is the best route I'd say!

best regards, Gary