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F-22A Raptor painting question

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  • Member since
    March 2013
F-22A Raptor painting question
Posted by MikeyBugs95 on Thursday, March 7, 2013 10:58 PM

Hey. I have an Academy F-22A Raptor kit and I haven't made much progress on it for some time because I can't figure out how to paint the camouflage/skin of it. I've tried to paint it so it replicates the YF-22A but I scraped that idea for some reason and now I have much of the body painted a light grey. A rather heavy coat of light grey. I am wondering: A) How I can remove this paint easily and quickly with out damaging the model and B) How I can paint the the kit to replicate the camouflage on the F-22A. I have gone so far as to call an airbrush artist to see if he could paint it for me but I haven't contacted him since the summer and I do not know his prices. If you could help I'd really appreciate it.

 In progress:

CAD:

1/35 SINCGARS ICOM/ASIP; 1/35 Flat screen TVs; 1/35 tactical light that I shall reveal later Devil

Models:

1/35 DML M4A1 DV; AFV Club M18 Hellcat; DML StuG IV; DML Armored Jeep w/ .50 cal; Panda Cougar 4x4 MRAP; Academy M3A1 Stuart; 1/700 Midship Models USS Miami; 1/700 Skywave Rudderow Destroyer Escort

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, March 8, 2013 9:11 AM

A good hand brushed finish is a real art.  Even though airbrushing takes some practice, I really believe to get a good hand brush paint finish on an entire model requires more skill and practice than an airbrush.  So do a lot of practice on scrap plastic before you try again, after you get old paint off.

I am sure you'll get a lot of responses- there are a number of things that will remove paint, everyone seems to have their own favorite.  One thing that is not frequently mentioned, that works for things like modern jets without a whole lot of fine surface detail is very fine wet or dry sandpaper- say 600 grit.  A lot of work, but it does get rid of paint.  You do not need to get every bit off, just get it down to a smooth surface with no runs or spots, then apply again.  Do NOT use paint thinner.  BTW, you did not say what kind of paint you used.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Earth
Posted by DiscoStu on Friday, March 8, 2013 1:52 PM

From what I understand, and I could be off on the colors, but I believe the Raptor is dark ghost over light ghost gray.  What makes it a bit different is the metalic hue to the pant as part of the RAM coating.  Hawkeye Hobbies out there offers a product called "Raptor Sheen" that you can add to the grays to give them that metallic hint.  Only works on enamels though and it is designed for airbrushing.

"Ahh the Luftwaffe. The Washington Generals of the History Channel" -Homer Simpson

  

 

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Chapin, South Carolina
Posted by Shipwreck on Friday, March 8, 2013 2:50 PM

A question is, why do you have to remove the paint? Why not just light-sand it down to a smooth surface and call it your prime coat (basically the same thing Don suggested)? You may not have to do much sanding at all. Less sanding will reduce the potential of damage. BTW, that Academ kit is nice; I have one in my stash!

On the Bench:

Revell 1/96 USS Constitution - rigging

Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer Prep and research

Trumpeter 1/350 USS Hornet CV-8 Prep and research

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by MikeyBugs95 on Friday, March 8, 2013 5:47 PM

Don Stauffer

A good hand brushed finish is a real art.  Even though airbrushing takes some practice, I really believe to get a good hand brush paint finish on an entire model requires more skill and practice than an airbrush.  So do a lot of practice on scrap plastic before you try again, after you get old paint off.

I am sure you'll get a lot of responses- there are a number of things that will remove paint, everyone seems to have their own favorite.  One thing that is not frequently mentioned, that works for things like modern jets without a whole lot of fine surface detail is very fine wet or dry sandpaper- say 600 grit.  A lot of work, but it does get rid of paint.  You do not need to get every bit off, just get it down to a smooth surface with no runs or spots, then apply again.  Do NOT use paint thinner.  BTW, you did not say what kind of paint you used.

 

I've been hand brushing every model I've made ever. I never had an airbrush up until this past October but I haven't been able to use it because I have no where to use it. I also would rather stay away from sanding because I don't want to sand down any of the fine detail on the model. If the detail wasn't raised, I'd have no problem sanding. And I already have used thinner, but I didn't know any better then.

I use testors enamel mostly. Sometimes, usually on my few Tamiya kits, I use Tamiya Acrylics.

 

DiscoStu

From what I understand, and I could be off on the colors, but I believe the Raptor is dark ghost over light ghost gray.  What makes it a bit different is the metalic hue to the pant as part of the RAM coating.  Hawkeye Hobbies out there offers a product called "Raptor Sheen" that you can add to the grays to give them that metallic hint.  Only works on enamels though and it is designed for airbrushing.

 

I think you may be thinking about the YF-22A. I was planning on painting the model that in the beginning but I decided to paint it after the F-22A  that are currently in service with the US Air Force. Theres more than just those two. Those two colors are part of the painting guide, but there are a couple more colors. What they are; I currently can not recall.

 In progress:

CAD:

1/35 SINCGARS ICOM/ASIP; 1/35 Flat screen TVs; 1/35 tactical light that I shall reveal later Devil

Models:

1/35 DML M4A1 DV; AFV Club M18 Hellcat; DML StuG IV; DML Armored Jeep w/ .50 cal; Panda Cougar 4x4 MRAP; Academy M3A1 Stuart; 1/700 Midship Models USS Miami; 1/700 Skywave Rudderow Destroyer Escort

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Earth
Posted by DiscoStu on Friday, March 8, 2013 10:21 PM

Yeah in addition to the two grays I mentioned there is also a light gray trim over the leading edges.  Not sure what it is though.

"Ahh the Luftwaffe. The Washington Generals of the History Channel" -Homer Simpson

  

 

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by MikeyBugs95 on Friday, March 8, 2013 11:20 PM

DiscoStu

Yeah in addition to the two grays I mentioned there is also a light gray trim over the leading edges.  Not sure what it is though.

 

I can get the painting guide in a bit.  But also another reason why I want the other layer of paint off is because it's a bit too thick to really act as a base coat.

 In progress:

CAD:

1/35 SINCGARS ICOM/ASIP; 1/35 Flat screen TVs; 1/35 tactical light that I shall reveal later Devil

Models:

1/35 DML M4A1 DV; AFV Club M18 Hellcat; DML StuG IV; DML Armored Jeep w/ .50 cal; Panda Cougar 4x4 MRAP; Academy M3A1 Stuart; 1/700 Midship Models USS Miami; 1/700 Skywave Rudderow Destroyer Escort

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