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Alclad II paints

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  • Member since
    June 2012
  • From: Canada
Alclad II paints
Posted by tates on Monday, March 25, 2013 5:55 PM

Hey guys, I was recently at a hobby shop after they received a shipment of alclad paints. I was gonna get some but I wanted to hear from anyone who uses them. Basically would you recommend them and how they are to work with.  

  • Member since
    October 2008
Posted by eatthis on Monday, March 25, 2013 6:33 PM

yes theyr great but they can be fragile

99% of the work is in the prep before the top coat goes on

 

snow + 4wd + escessive hp = :)  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7egUIS70YM

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Earth
Posted by DiscoStu on Monday, March 25, 2013 7:24 PM

They're fantastic but you do need to follow the instructions.  They're much tougher than MM Metalizers.

"Ahh the Luftwaffe. The Washington Generals of the History Channel" -Homer Simpson

  

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, March 26, 2013 9:25 AM

I have had very good luck with Alclad aluminums. I use it over gloss black enamel.  For the polished aluminum the secret is a very light coat.  The more/thicker you apply it, the duller the results, so it eventually begins to look the same as their regular aluminum. If you really want a polished look dial back the airbrush and go at it easy.  Their regular "Aluminum" is best for planes that have been in service awhile, while the white aluminum is for older, more weathered aircraft, or to use in combination with the regular aluminum to get different shade panels.

I like how easy it cleans up in the airbrush.  A few seconds worth of thinner and the brush and jar are clean- easiest paint to clean that I know of.  One tip- do NOT use CA accelerator around it after you are done painting.  Any accelerator that gets on the surface really dulls and darkens it.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: back country of SO-CAL, at the birth place of Naval Aviation
Posted by DUSTER on Tuesday, March 26, 2013 4:34 PM

like the others  say its good stuff.

There is a learning curve and as stated proper preparation is vital (that means if you can see a bump, lump, gap, ???) the Alcald will make it into a mountain or canyon !

For the chrome, polished Aluminum  do mist coats and slowly build up- then stop short of what  you would call a "normal" thickness; see if you have what you want or add another.

HTH Good luckBig Smile


Steve

Building the perfect model---just not quite yet  Confused

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Tuesday, March 26, 2013 5:05 PM

Best there is for NMF finishes.  You will hear/read that you HAVE to use a gloss black base coat.  This is, simply put, just not true for the regular colors.  That is only required for the chrome and "polished" colors.  That’s not to say you can’t use the gloss black for the regular but why you would if you don’t have to.    The surface has to be about as perfect as you can get it.  If you are using a gloss black for one of the chrome like colors and there’s dust or other crap in there you will have to let it really cure rock hard so can sand it and buff it out to a gloss again.  If you’re not using chrome, a good quality primer is all you need.  

After I get the model as close to prefect as I can I use Mr. Surfacer 1200 as a primer coat.  Any good primer will do.  I then buff that out a bit with 6000 micro mesh but you can use a coffee filter too… and I have.  You’re good to go then. Whatever color/type of base coat you use any imperfection will stand out like a sore thumb.  It sounds somewhat daunting but it’s not really.

The regular colors dry fast and hard, take masking well and a very durable and stand up to handling.  The chrome and polished colors less so.   Use different "aluminum" colors on various panels instead on 1 color all over.

Marc  

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