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General painting advice/help

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  • Member since
    March 2013
  • From: Indianapolis, IN
General painting advice/help
Posted by nicoga3000 on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 10:25 AM

Hi all -

So I've been putting off getting back into modelling because I'm overwhelmed by painting "stuff".  I do figure modeling (stuff like Gundams and video game characters) on and off, but I have recently bought my first car.  I also want to buy a ship at some point, but not until I feel like I've gotten the hang of things.  My current setup includes:

  • Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush
  • GREX compressor (expensive, but super quiet)
  • Huge load of Tamiya acrylics (a few thinned with Tamiya acrylic thinner
  • Vallejo surface primer (I haven't tried it yet, but someone told me this stuff is great)
  • Future (I was told to buy this stuff by someone, but I don't remember why)
  • Alclad II chrome
  • Vallejo matte varnish

So here's the thing...I can't figure out the process.  I've done a few Gundam models, but I haven't painted much of them.  I used to paint miniatures for wargaming (a friend of mine hated painting but needed them painted per the rules...I stepped in).  But that was all done via hand brushing, and also, years ago.

Where I stand now is that I want to really get into modeling, but get really overwhelmed with all the various painting "rules".  I used to paint with Vallejo Model color paints, but those weren't mine.  I know those were acrylic based, so there wasn't any issue with my priming and painting procedure.  Hell, I used to lick my brush to point the tip (non-toxic = OK in my book).

Now, since I'm starting to do vehicles and models and such, things are different.  I definitely can't lick paint brushes anymore!  On top of that, priming, painting, coating, etc takes on a different form.  There are some who swear by Tamiya acrylics, Testors, Vallejo, etc.  I personally have NO idea what route to go.  The reason for the pile of Tamiya paints is related to my Gunpla models.  I did a bit of touching up via hand brushing and airbrushing some smoother coats after sanding.  I can't stand to hand brush Tamiya paints - they NEVER come out smooth for me.

So I was hoping someone could help me out in terms of understanding the painting process with various types/brands of paint, the purpose and application of future/sealers, curing, etc.  Am I safe to prime with the Vallejo surface primer and paint over it with Tamiya acrylics?  Should I start investing in another brand of paint for modeling? 

I don't know - I know this is sort of a vague topic, but I'm looking to figure out what route to go for hand painting, air brushing, details, etc.  The biggest worry I have is that I'll paint something with one color and it'll eat the layer below it.  I could swear that Future has something to do with that, but  I really have no idea.  I prefer to avoid spray cans if possible, but I'll invest if I need to.

I appreciate any info and help!  Thanks everyone.

  • Member since
    February 2015
Posted by Bick on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 4:52 PM

Hi Nicoga3000,

Your tools/equipment list looks to me like you're in good shape. For getting back into the hobby I don't think you need to add much except for Gloss Black if you want to use Alclad II chrome (necessary for a base coat before the chrome). Personally I use craft acrylics but there's certainly nothing wrong with Tamiya. You can use the Vallejo primer for acrylics with no problems (some use primer as their first coat, some don't). Tamiya's X20A thinner is great too as far as my experience. Future is itself a a clear acrylic and is used to 1) dip canopies in to improve clarity and sheen, 2)apply a gloss coat to painted surfaces before applying decals [prevents 'silvering'], 3) some use it as a primer/base coat, 4), some use it to 'glue' canopies on, and 5) I use it as a thinner for craft acrylics sometimes. I wouldn't worry about the brand of paint - some swear by Gunze, some Vallejo, some Tamiya, some MM, some Polyscale, and some (like me) like craft acrylics.  I think everything you have is compatible so my recommendation is: get out the Iwata, fire up the Grex. dilute some Tamiya acrylic about 50/50 with X20A thinnner and start painting. Practice on cardboard, used soda bottles or milk jugs til you feel comfortable with the AB and have fun. Sorry but I'm terrible at brush painting so any thoughts would be worth less than the time it took to read them.

  • Member since
    March 2013
  • From: Indianapolis, IN
Posted by nicoga3000 on Thursday, March 28, 2013 7:38 AM

That's reassuring, thanks Bick!  I do have a gloss black in there that I bought in preparation for Alclad II, so check that one off the list.

I use the X20A thinner currently, but I've heard of people using the lacquer thinner with Tamiya acrylics.  Is that a thing?  And if so, why?

Regarding Future, it sounds like it's a good intermediate layer, too.  So I can use it over a paint job before applying any enamel washes without risk of ruining my paint jobs, yeah?  And have you (or anyone) tried using Future with an AB?  I've heard it takes some work with regards to thinning and pressure.  I am not sure on this, so any input here would be welcome.

And regarding hand brushing, I could just buy some Vallejo paints to hand brush with I imagine...But any input here would also be great.  I'm thinking more like the tiny details...Car hood ornaments, dashboard panels, door handles, etc.  

  • Member since
    February 2015
Posted by Bick on Thursday, March 28, 2013 8:07 AM

nicoga3000

<snip>

I use the X20A thinner currently, but I've heard of people using the lacquer thinner with Tamiya acrylics.  Is that a thing?  And if so, why?

I'm not sure but I think Tamiya's acrylics are more like water miscible lacquers so lacquer thinner works but, again, I'm not sure.Embarrassed

Regarding Future, it sounds like it's a good intermediate layer, too.  So I can use it over a paint job before applying any enamel washes without risk of ruining my paint jobs, yeah?  And have you (or anyone) tried using Future with an AB?  I've heard it takes some work with regards to thinning and pressure.  I am not sure on this, so any input here would be welcome.

Yes, Future is a good protective layer. I airbrush Future straight from the bottle without problems when using it as a base/overcoat. Some do thin it with about 25% alcohol or Windex but I haven't tried it. In fact, I sometimes use Future to thin craft acrylics for airbrushing. I use the same pressures I use for other acrylics (around 20 PSI) then clean the AB with Windex then water. Future has nice self-leveling properties.  It's actually easy to use but to get a glossy finish you usually need several coats.

And regarding hand brushing, I could just buy some Vallejo paints to hand brush with I imagine...But any input here would also be great.  I'm thinking more like the tiny details...Car hood ornaments, dashboard panels, door handles, etc.  

My brush skills are terrible but when I do have to I use a fine Sable brush and craft acrylics straight from the bottle or with a little CAC 200 to thin slightly. Really not much help on this.

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: England
Posted by P mitch on Thursday, March 28, 2013 8:09 AM

On the thinning Tamiya paint, if you can I'd stick to using the Tamiya thinners. You can save some money using lacquer thinner but untill you get used to ratios etc stay with the same thinner as the paint maker it saves a lot of worry.

On Future I've used it right from the bottle with an airbrush and not had a problem with it, just be careful putting it on thin layers and add more.

For fine detail work I do use Vellejo paints and they work much better than Tamiya as the paint is a little thicker and there is more pigment.

If you need more ask sure we can help

Phil

"If anybody ever tells you anything about an aeroplane which is so bloody complicated you can't understand it, take it from me: it's all balls." R J Mitchell


  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Thursday, March 28, 2013 8:27 AM

People use laquer thinner with Tamiya acrylics to get certain effects. It makes the paint go on really translucent, making it great for subtle shading and blending, and letting the pre-shade show through even with multiply coats. It also makes the paint spray super smooth and silk like. I would start out with their x-20a though like you have, to get a feel for them, and then if you want to do some more advance airbrushing, try thinning them with laquer thinner.

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2013
  • From: Indianapolis, IN
Posted by nicoga3000 on Thursday, March 28, 2013 9:20 AM

I'll stick with the X-20a thinner for now if it's not going to hinder me in any way.  Thanks guys!

And I've never had luck hand brushing Tamiya acrylics, but I'm glad it's not just me.  I did some research and it turns out EVERYONE hates hand brushing with them!  :)  I can pick up a few Vallejo bottles to suit my needs and expand as I see fit.

I appreciate the help and info!

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: New Mexico
Posted by johncpo on Thursday, March 28, 2013 1:44 PM

nicoga,

You might want to read my latest post about this same subject on painting with acrylics. I moved past the Tamiya acrylic years ago in favor of craft store acrylics, Applebarrel, Anita, Creamcoat and a few others. As you read on, many model builders are using these brands and as I suggest thinning the paint for airbrushing with blue tinted windshield wiper fluid. I found out years ago and had an article in "Tips" section of FSM about using wiper fluid.

To elaborate, my technique for painting armor, figures and aircraft are all the same.

1.) Using a plain green scouring pad, gently rough up the surface of the parts and rinse in cool water.

2.) Dry using a hand held hair dryer that you remove from a female member's beauty supplies of your household. Set on LOW heat.

3. Airbrush with about a 50/50 mix of paint and the wiper fluid, applying in at least two light coats and dry with the hairdryer, by now the hairdryer will be missed!

4. Continue to paint all of the parts and sub assemblies as described.

5. When hand brushing a figure I go straight from the bottle of paint for the first color layer and then dry as described.

Use what techniques suit you and that is main thing, Tamiya paints are a bit thin as I recall and the cost was another factor.   Have fun.

johncpo

  • Member since
    March 2013
  • From: Indianapolis, IN
Posted by nicoga3000 on Thursday, March 28, 2013 3:16 PM

johncpo

Thanks for that...Interestingly enough, I've seen those craft store acrylics at the local Walmart and have often scoffed at them.  But holy wow, they are cheap!  If they can provide me with adequate finish and hand brushing results, I may have to start buying those!  I mean really, the color selection amongst brands is FANTASTIC.  I think my local store has somewhere around 100 different colors, and the Hobby Lobby/Michael's has even more.  And since they're all Acrylic, they'll agree with one another.  :)

Do you happen to have any finished works done using those craft paints?

  • Member since
    February 2015
Posted by Bick on Thursday, March 28, 2013 4:48 PM

Nicoga3000,

Johncpo has a couple of links in the forum he referred to (see next link). Also, CHECK IN THIS THREAD for a couple of pics of models I've done with craft acrylics. I quite like them.


  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: New Mexico
Posted by johncpo on Friday, March 29, 2013 9:23 AM

My Facebook pages that I started ; Hobbies in a Barn (to post my own work) and Building Historic Dioramas ( for everyone else to post their work) Thanks for looking. I also have posted many photos on Amazon.com in the reviews of kits, Stormthecastle.com and Panzerart.com and Hobbylinc.com where you get credits for each post.  

All the best,

johncpo

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