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Preshading

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  • Member since
    April 2013
  • From: Tampa Bay Area, Florida
Preshading
Posted by Digital_Cowboy on Monday, May 6, 2013 9:39 PM

     Okay, I know to some that this is probably going to be a "dumb" question.  But when preshading, does one paint the panel lines first, and then prime, or prime and them paint the panel lines?

      Also, if one is painting say a car a gloss black, do they then use gloss black to preshade (presuming that one preshades before priming), then prime, and then paint the model gloss black, or what?

Tags: coat , enamel , Finished , help

---------------------------------
Digital Cowboy
Live Long and Prosper
On the Bench: '64 Ford Fairlane; '09 Corvette Coupe

  • Member since
    October 2010
Posted by hypertex on Tuesday, May 7, 2013 8:14 AM

Always apply the primer first. The point of the primer is to provide a uniform base for your paint, to improve paint adhesion, to help check for flaws, etc. Applying the primer over the pre-shading will completely cover it.

The purpose of pre-shading is to provide color variation by breaking up the monotonous main color. The technique involves applying your main color over the pre-shading so that the pre-shading shows through just a little bit, providing a subtle variation in color.

I don't build cars much myself, so I don't know how they do it (or if they even use this technique). But for aircraft, it seems pointless to apply pre-shading that is the same color as your main color--it would not provide any variation. Perhaps one of our car builders could chime in on this.

Many aircraft builders will pre-shade the panel lines with black. So when they apply the top color (be it olive drab, camo, whatever) the panel lines will appear darker than the rest of the model. That's assuming they don't apply the top coat too heavily and completely cover the pre-shading so that it doesn't show through.

I personally don't use the technique, but I have seen it done (and overdone) many times.

Hope this helps.

Chris

  • Member since
    April 2013
  • From: Tampa Bay Area, Florida
Posted by Digital_Cowboy on Tuesday, May 7, 2013 8:42 AM

hypertex

Always apply the primer first. The point of the primer is to provide a uniform base for your paint, to improve paint adhesion, to help check for flaws, etc. Applying the primer over the pre-shading will completely cover it.

The purpose of pre-shading is to provide color variation by breaking up the monotonous main color. The technique involves applying your main color over the pre-shading so that the pre-shading shows through just a little bit, providing a subtle variation in color.

I don't build cars much myself, so I don't know how they do it (or if they even use this technique). But for aircraft, it seems pointless to apply pre-shading that is the same color as your main color--it would not provide any variation. Perhaps one of our car builders could chime in on this.

Many aircraft builders will pre-shade the panel lines with black. So when they apply the top color (be it olive drab, camo, whatever) the panel lines will appear darker than the rest of the model. That's assuming they don't apply the top coat too heavily and completely cover the pre-shading so that it doesn't show through.

I personally don't use the technique, but I have seen it done (and overdone) many times.

Hope this helps.

Chris

Chris,

     That makes sense, applying the primer first and then pre-shading.  It also makes sense that if one is painting the body a dark color that pre-shading with the same (or similar) color would be counterproductive.

     Hopefully, one of the more experienced car builders will chime in.

     Yes, it does, thank you.  And I can see how it can be over done.  Hell sadly, anything can be overdone.  Thus rendering something good as something "bad." Sad

---------------------------------
Digital Cowboy
Live Long and Prosper
On the Bench: '64 Ford Fairlane; '09 Corvette Coupe

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Phoenix, AZ
Posted by Fly-n-hi on Tuesday, May 7, 2013 9:08 AM

It can depend on the base color, too.  For example, if the base color is white then pre shading with black might be too stark.  In this case you may want to pre shade with a darker grey or even a brown depending on the look you're going for.

Remember to build up the paint slowly, too, so that the pre shade shows through.  You can always add more paint but once you've applied too much the effect is lost.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, May 7, 2013 9:37 AM

I don't think pre-shading is needed on most cars. It represents a heavily weathered aircraft that tends to have dirt and grime collect in and around seams. Unless you are depicting a "beater", most people do not let that much grime and stuff collect on the finish.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: UK
Posted by Jon_a_its on Tuesday, May 7, 2013 11:02 AM

Don Stauffer

I don't think pre-shading is needed on most cars. It represents a heavily weathered aircraft that tends to have dirt and grime collect in and around seams. Unless you are depicting a "beater", most people do not let that much grime and stuff collect on the finish.

Not seen my car then? Surprise
Don't do many cars, last one was a powder-blue Fiat 500 for the g/f, (actually RLM 02, but she loves it!)   
I don't pre-shade,  as I can't get on with it, & they don't pre-shade the real thing do they? Wink
I've had more success on Armour & aircraft with things like Pro-Modelers wash, pastels, etc. adding the filth after the paint.

East Mids Model Club 32nd Annual Show 2nd April 2023

 http://www.eastmidsmodelclub.co.uk/

Don't feed the CM!

 

  • Member since
    April 2013
  • From: Tampa Bay Area, Florida
Posted by Digital_Cowboy on Tuesday, May 7, 2013 9:23 PM

Fly-n-hi

It can depend on the base color, too.  For example, if the base color is white then pre shading with black might be too stark.  In this case you may want to pre shade with a darker grey or even a brown depending on the look you're going for.

Remember to build up the paint slowly, too, so that the pre shade shows through.  You can always add more paint but once you've applied too much the effect is lost.

FnH,

     Thank you for that advice.  It does make sense.  Maybe I should change the paint scheme from black body/red roof to red body and black roof.

     I also see what you're saying in regards to a white body and pre-shading with black could be too stark as you said, and how grey or brown would be the better choice.

---------------------------------
Digital Cowboy
Live Long and Prosper
On the Bench: '64 Ford Fairlane; '09 Corvette Coupe

  • Member since
    April 2013
  • From: Tampa Bay Area, Florida
Posted by Digital_Cowboy on Tuesday, May 7, 2013 9:26 PM

Don Stauffer

I don't think pre-shading is needed on most cars. It represents a heavily weathered aircraft that tends to have dirt and grime collect in and around seams. Unless you are depicting a "beater", most people do not let that much grime and stuff collect on the finish.

Don,

     But, wouldn't it help to make the doors look more "realistic?"  By I don't know making them "pop" and stand out more?  As well as adding shadow detail to the doors?

     Just asking.

     Oh, and you should see some of the cars down here in Fl.

---------------------------------
Digital Cowboy
Live Long and Prosper
On the Bench: '64 Ford Fairlane; '09 Corvette Coupe

  • Member since
    April 2013
  • From: Tampa Bay Area, Florida
Posted by Digital_Cowboy on Tuesday, May 7, 2013 9:29 PM

Jon_a_its

Don Stauffer

I don't think pre-shading is needed on most cars. It represents a heavily weathered aircraft that tends to have dirt and grime collect in and around seams. Unless you are depicting a "beater", most people do not let that much grime and stuff collect on the finish.

Not seen my car then? Surprise
Don't do many cars, last one was a powder-blue Fiat 500 for the g/f, (actually RLM 02, but she loves it!)   
I don't pre-shade,  as I can't get on with it, & they don't pre-shade the real thing do they? Wink
I've had more success on Armour & aircraft with things like Pro-Modelers wash, pastels, etc. adding the filth after the paint.

Jon,

     I've seen some pretty grimy cars down here in Fl.  Ones that make a NASCAR "turn 4" crash car look cherry. Wink

---------------------------------
Digital Cowboy
Live Long and Prosper
On the Bench: '64 Ford Fairlane; '09 Corvette Coupe

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, May 8, 2013 9:34 AM

In my opinion I have seen too many car models with door outlines done way too dark.  Look at a real car in sunlight.  The door lines are not black, they are just a darker shade of the body color.  If I do darken line, I do so by adding a slight amount of black to the body color, thin it way out, and apply as a wash.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2013
  • From: Tampa Bay Area, Florida
Posted by Digital_Cowboy on Wednesday, May 8, 2013 10:41 AM

Don Stauffer

In my opinion I have seen too many car models with door outlines done way too dark.  Look at a real car in sunlight.  The door lines are not black, they are just a darker shade of the body color.  If I do darken line, I do so by adding a slight amount of black to the body color, thin it way out, and apply as a wash.

Don,

     Hence my asking about pre-shading/shadowing.  I was hoping to get a good general feel for the technique.

     Your way sounds like it is a good way to go.

---------------------------------
Digital Cowboy
Live Long and Prosper
On the Bench: '64 Ford Fairlane; '09 Corvette Coupe

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