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Pin wash problems

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  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:22 AM

I do not seal the paint with a clear coat before using washes.  Sure, it is a risk but I like the results I get that way better. I think it is worth the risk.  Many steps in weathering are a bit risky.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    October 2010
Posted by hypertex on Tuesday, May 21, 2013 8:54 AM

When I have this problem I just paint the brush along the entire panel line. Then I let it dry for about 10-15 minutes (use a hair dryer to speed it up). This leaves excessive paint around the panel lines, of course. I remove the excess with an artist's kneaded eraser, available at art supply stores, craft stores, and even stores like Wal-Mart might carry them.

This type of eraser works very will with removing excess oil paint from my models. I just form the eraser to size and shape I need and gently rub off the paint. I often form a fine point or a flat-head screw driver shape.  If the paint is wet, the paint comes off with a simple touch. If it is dry, you will have to rub it a bit but it still comes off easily. This process is tedious, but less tedious than re-scribing, and much more forgiving!

Personally, I use a flat finish for this process, so test this on a scrap to make sure the eraser doesn't mar your gloss finish. It doesn't affect my flat finish.

Another option I use is colored pencils. I just sharpen to a fine point and draw into the panel line, using a straight-edge if necessary. This creates a sharp line, so it may not be your cup of tea. I try not to use a black pencil, instead I pick out a darker color of the base coat.  Burnt Umber looks great on olive drab, for example. Again, I use a flat finish, so it may not work on your gloss coat.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Chris

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by KnightTemplar5150 on Monday, May 20, 2013 8:01 PM
Have you tried pre-wetting the areas you are trying to place the pin wash? By this, I mean running clear thinner over the area to break up the surface tension before you use the color wash. Any excess is easily cleaned up with a cotton swab if the wash happens to run a bit.
  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Phoenix, AZ
Posted by Fly-n-hi on Monday, May 20, 2013 6:24 PM

If the panel lines are not deep enough (and you've already painted) there really isn't much you can do for the pin wash.  But you could do post shading with just as convincing results.

  • Member since
    May 2013
Posted by obiwan99 on Monday, May 20, 2013 5:38 PM

I am having trouble using an oil and mineral spirits wash over a gloss acrylic . The panel lines and surface detail do not seem to be deep enough or have sufficient capillary action to draw in the wash. So far this seems to be the case with the 1/32 Revell Germany He-111 and to a lesser extent with the Zoukei-Mura Ta152. Things seem to work if I re-scribe the panel lines and details and pin vise the rivets but this is a risky procedure.

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Earth
Posted by DiscoStu on Monday, May 20, 2013 4:39 PM

If you're using an enamel paint use an Acryllic wash, and vice versa.  Mineral spirits + Oil paint work best if you're using an Acryllics.  If I'm using enamels I use pastels+water+dish soap for my pin washes.

"Ahh the Luftwaffe. The Washington Generals of the History Channel" -Homer Simpson

  

 

  • Member since
    April 2011
  • From: Caput Mundi (Rome,Italy)
Posted by Italian Starfighter on Monday, May 20, 2013 4:11 PM

Hi.....first of all the washing works better on a satin-gloss surfaces ,......then try to use enamel(humbrol,model master) thinned with mineral spirit.....they have a more fine pigment.........Ciao from Italy,Enrico.

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  • Member since
    May 2013
Pin wash problems
Posted by obiwan99 on Sunday, May 19, 2013 11:36 AM

I am having great difficulties using the pin wash technique to highlight panel lines on my large scale aircraft.

Here's what happens:

I use the technique of preshading to make panels stand out, and this works quite well and is very realistic. Over the preshading and color coats I apply a very thin acrylic clear coat to prevent the pin wash from bleeding through. All coats of paint are very thin, including the clear coat.

Here is the problem: I mix the oil paint-and-mineral spirits in the proper proportion and use a fine tip liner type brush. I touch the wash to a panel line and the wash will not "flow" as it should into the panel line. The only real solution is re-scribing the panel lines deeper and using a pin vise to make the rivets deeper. This is very time-consuming and the potential for error is great. I have been building for 50+ years and would like to use pinwashing on a regular basis. I use primarily Model Master and Floquil enamels shot through a Paasche airbrush in very thin coats.. The clear coat is either Floquil high gloss enamel or more likely a clear acrylic artist-type sealer. Right now I am using a fine scale felt tip pen  (Micron) but to me this is unsatisfactory as it dries up often. Help please!

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