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Tamiya acrylic white problems

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, July 4, 2013 6:26 PM

Well said...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by TacoSalad on Thursday, July 4, 2013 5:02 PM

They do brush nicely. I keep some for that; along with Vallejo. I wouldn't use Acryl over anything that's going to need masking. With obsessive surface prep its acceptable. I just feel like with all the paint options out there it's not worth it.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, July 4, 2013 4:29 PM

The only thing MM Acryl does better than Tamiya is hand brush better. But they are far more finicky to airbrush, even using their own brand thinner.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by TacoSalad on Thursday, July 4, 2013 3:11 PM

Eh...I've found the only thing MM Acryl is good for is headaches. Their enamels are excellent, but the Acryl isn't very durable.

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Wednesday, July 3, 2013 2:44 PM

Try Model Master Acryl White.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, July 3, 2013 1:45 PM

Try a light dusted primer coat of flat white, a coat or two of gloss white over that to build it up, then a top coat of flat white.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by TacoSalad on Wednesday, July 3, 2013 11:46 AM

White used to be a pain to me too. But I've found two things work really well  

1. Prime with black. You will be able to see that you're getting coverage much better, and if you're studious you can create some amazing color depth and shadow play.

2. Enamels. White and yellow are zero issue with enamel paints. I've done plenty of one coat apps with great coverage.

Addendum: try thinning Tamiya with lacquer thinner. Expert modelers do this a lot more than realized. Mr. Color leveling thinner is your best friend when it comes to Tamiya acrylics. Try it and you'll never go back.

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by Neilispowerwolf on Wednesday, July 3, 2013 11:25 AM

I am painting one of my mechs, but I want the finish to be "clean". Not necessarily flawless but not combat weathered. I might end up doing 4-5 light coats in the end.

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Scotland
Posted by Milairjunkie on Wednesday, July 3, 2013 9:54 AM

Another alternative is to use matt white & then clear coat to get the gloss finish - matt tends to be less troublesome than gloss & dries much, much quicker, allowing you to get multiple coats down in a relatively short time in comparison to gloss...

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Bay Area, CA
Posted by Reaper420 on Wednesday, July 3, 2013 12:05 AM
Yep like everyone else said, white and yellow are pains in the rear. They require several thin coats to build them up so that whatever they are being laid down on top of does not show. So no your not doing anything wrong and your are not the only one. It just takes time and patience with these two colors.

Kick the tires and light the fires!

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, July 2, 2013 11:37 PM

What are you using the white to paint? Are you looking for a flawless finish on something like a car or airliner, or something rough like a combat equipment whitewash finish? Each requires a different approach. But yes, white, like yellow, tends to be a more troublesome color to paint.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Phoenix, AZ
Posted by Fly-n-hi on Tuesday, July 2, 2013 11:19 PM

Yeah, several thin light coats.  Same thing with Tamiya Gloss Yellow.

  • Member since
    February 2015
Posted by Bick on Tuesday, July 2, 2013 4:48 PM

Borg R3-MC0

Yep, white is difficult. Possible improvemenst:

<snip>

- multiple coats, four at least

Agree with both these points. Light colors, particularly yellow and white, require several LIGHT coats over even a light primer or plastic and even more coats over a dark base.

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by Neilispowerwolf on Tuesday, July 2, 2013 11:28 AM

I always prime my models before painting (Vallejo white polyurethane primer). I have been playing around with the PSI setting and I think I found a sweet spot at 15psi and I'm gonna try just doing a lot of light coats. It might be a pain, but I guess that's modelling for you :P

I actually just ordered a small bottle of Vallejo model air white to compare it to the Tamiya. Hopefully if it's great, I'll switch white over to that.

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Utereg
Posted by Borg R3-MC0 on Tuesday, July 2, 2013 10:41 AM

Yep, white is difficult. Possible improvemenst:

- use tamiya thinner

- use a light grey primer

- clean the plastic before painting (alohol or ammonia)

- adjust Psi setting

- multiple coats, four at least

  • Member since
    July 2013
Tamiya acrylic white problems
Posted by Neilispowerwolf on Monday, July 1, 2013 3:58 PM

So I'm airbrushing my model with the gloss Tamiya acrylic white paint and it's incredibly finicky. It either splatters (When it's at a "milky" consistency) or it's too thin/starts to pool and run. I do believe white in general is a troublesome color but is it just me? Or should I try something else?

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