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Help me if you would....

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Winsted CT
Help me if you would....
Posted by jimz66 on Friday, February 20, 2004 6:49 PM
Hi guys, I have never visited this part of the forum this much. I have been on the FSM forum for over a year now and have made about 90% of my posts in the Aircraft section.

I have several issues. I am working on a pair of Hasegawa 1/48 Hornets, and I need some advice for the outside painting.

Ok here it goes. I am starting with a NMF, because there are several areas that need it and I am working on trying to use it as a base coat until I learn it right. I plan to paint the NMF in the next week or two, I have one almost ready for that and the other is just getting started as of today.

My next step is going to be a way to emphasize panel lines. I have yet to decide what to do for that. In betweent though I am going to do a coat of future. Now the last time I sprayed future it came out weird. It sort of looks like a bunch of glossy polka-dots. How do I avoid this?

After the lines are done I am going to reseal it and then apply the first of two colors.

How much time should I let each color and the future dry?

How many coats of future do I need and how do I properly spray it?

Do I need to thin it all?

And lastly, I heard years ago that Testors Dull coat and Gloss Coat can yellow with age. Can you give me a better dull Coat. I read about one years ago and forgot which one it was. Can anyone lead me in the right directions? Thanks.
Phantoms rule the skies!!!
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Central USA
Posted by qmiester on Friday, February 20, 2004 8:03 PM
I may not be the one to help, but I've never shot a coat of paint over a coat of Future. Apply the Future a couple of days before decaling. Shot it straight out of the bottle (don't thin it).

As far as Dull Coat and Gloss coat yellowing, I have a 1/72 P-47 that I finished in the early 80's in a SWPA scheme - OD & neutral gray w/white leading edges and tail. It has definatly yellowed.

If you can find it, Walthers makes a flattening clear called DDV. Doesn't appear to yellow but is really flat. Check the model RR section of your LHS.
Quincy
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Winsted CT
Posted by jimz66 on Friday, February 20, 2004 10:08 PM
Sorry I am not good with acronyms whats SWPA?
Phantoms rule the skies!!!
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: CT - USA
Posted by thevinman on Friday, February 20, 2004 10:48 PM
How much time should I let each color and the future dry?

If you are using enamels, you might need a couple days. The idea is that you want the paint to fully cure before messing with it. If you are using enamel and it still smells like solvent, then it’s not cured.

If you are using acrylics, you should wait at least 24 to 48 hrs or more if there is high humidity. The same goes for future because future is an acrylic.

Also, gloss colors take much longer to cure than flats. This is true for both acrylics and enamels.

How many coats of future do I need and how do I properly spray it?

I get best results if I shoot future at 10 psi and 1-2 inches from the surface. Keep the brush moving so the future doesn’t pool or run. You might need as many as five light coats (15 -20 minutes apart) to get a good shiny finish.

Do I need to thin it all?

Nope.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Central USA
Posted by qmiester on Sunday, February 22, 2004 7:21 PM
SWPA stands for South West Pacific Area - included Australia, New Guinea and Guadacanal.
Quincy
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