Paint basics...???

Bill,

Could you be more specific about the brand of paint you are asking about? Paint formulations can vary quite a bit from one brand to another. Often the brand's website will have some information about their contents on their website. That's probably your best resource.

Chris

I'm an enamel user.  I ordinarily stick to hobby paints.  I believe many of the hobby paint brands use specially fine ground pigments.  Some advertise that fact.

I do use some non-hobby paints.  The primer I use (Krylon) is a general purpose primer, but it goes on rough and has to be sanded before applying color. I do find that hobby paints seem to have a shorter shelf life once they have been opened than general purpose paints, but because of the small bottle size, that doesn't seem like a big concern.

Proper thinning is an important skill regardless of whether you hand brush or airbrush.  I find getting a high gloss is easier with enamel than with acrylics (I build a lot of civil subjects).

I find I can use any weathering techniques I see acrylic users doing.  I use the same enamels I use for general painting for doing  washes and drybrushing.

Sorry Bill, I don't mean to hijack your post but I was wondering from Don if you seal the base coat of enamel before using enamel washes, etc with Future or some other clear coat (Testor's Glosscote)?  I don't have an airbrush system and I haven't tried brush painting Future though various threads say you can.

Todd2249

Sorry Bill, I don't mean to hijack your post but I was wondering from Don if you seal the base coat of enamel before using enamel washes, etc with Future or some other clear coat (Testor's Glosscote)?  I don't have an airbrush system and I haven't tried brush painting Future though various threads say you can.

No, I don't ordinarily seal the color with anything if I am applying either glosscoat or dullcoat. I find those clear overcoats seal pretty well themselves.

I seldom airbrush future (it dries so fast one has to clean airbrush IMMEDIATELY), so I use the Testors clearcoats (they also dry very fast, but I use the spray cans).  If I am just glosscoating a small area I brush on either future or glosscoat- say for a decal.

Incidently, the price of kits seems to be going up very fast lately, while I have seen airbrushes and compressors staying at stable prices.  This may be a good time to buy an airbrushing set. I see a number of ktis priced more than you will pay for an airbrush and compressor.

Sorry to take so long in getting back.

Chris, the enamels are Testors, as I have been using them since the early 1960's. The acrylics came in tubes. I don't recall brand names, I just recall that they thinned and cleaned up in water. However when they dried, they were just about bullet proof.

Todd and Don, carry on, I'd like to know more enamal on enamal washes and filters.

I just add a lot of thinner to the Testors enamel. In fact, it is sometimes more adding a little paint to the thinner. I primarily do pin washes, where you want to darken panel lines and such. I do these quite thin, only  few percent paint in a lot of thinner.  If it is not dark enough, I can add more paint and apply again.  I sometimes make a dark brown wash to create oil stains,  a heavier mix- more paint less thinner, to brush on bellies behind cowl.  

However for most area stains I tend to use an airbrush with a very fine, light coat.  To me, it gives a similar result to dot filters.