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Handbrushing Gunze Mr Color?

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Handbrushing Gunze Mr Color?
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, September 26, 2013 10:59 PM

Has anybody here handbrushed Gunze Mr Color paints? Any hints, tips, advice on making this a trouble free process?

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Phoenix, AZ
Posted by Fly-n-hi on Friday, September 27, 2013 8:15 AM

I've had ok success thinning hand brushing Mr. Color if its thinned down a little with their own Mr Leveling Thinner.  But all in all this stuff doesn't brush well.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, September 27, 2013 11:07 AM

Thats what I was worried about. I am doing a hard edge, three color camouflage scheme, so unless I can get some Gunze master's advice, it looks like airbrush and masking is in order. Have you done anything similar and how long should you wait for the base coat to dry before applying another color on top?

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, September 27, 2013 11:12 AM

I haven't used it in a long time, but from what I recall, it was similar to Tamiya. I have always thought this was just a fact of life with Acrylics.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, September 27, 2013 11:23 AM

Yes, in the bottle Mr Color seems like a thicker version of Tamiya. Thinning for handbrushing seems to be a "thou shalt". Oh to have a time machine and be able to go get me some good old Polly S acrylics for handbrushing...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Friday, September 27, 2013 11:28 AM

They dry so fast its a crapshoot to brush on. But I've seen those master Japanese build offs on youtube and a guy brush paints a whole 1/32 Tamiya zero with MR. color. But he pours in some kind of powder stuff that I cant' read the label cause its Japanese. Gunze must offer some sort of additive for brush painting. Wish I could find the video...

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, September 27, 2013 11:49 AM

It's probably in the thinner. What I was thinking of doing was to airbrush on the base color, then hand brush on the disruptive patern colors on top, in order to avoid masking over all those complex shapes, especially in the suspension area. But if the stuff does not handbrush well that does not sound like a viable option.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Friday, September 27, 2013 11:57 AM

Wouldn't hurt to try though if you already have the Mr. color paints. I wish I could find the vid. You'd be amazed how he painted and weathered the model, all with a hair stick.

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, September 27, 2013 12:05 PM

Yes, I have the paints. I won them at an IPMS Chapter meet raffle. So it can be done... at least by Japanese modelers on You Tube... Yes I can try on the suspension area first... I am just hoping for some advice on here from somebody with firsthand been there/done that knowledge of these paints....

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, September 28, 2013 3:34 PM

Well the first part went well enough. I thinned with Mr Color thinner at a ratio of two parts paint to one part thinner and used a thinner moistened sable brush all went well. I am letting it dry now and seeing if any and all brush marks disappear.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: State of Mississippi. State motto: Virtute et armis (By valor and arms)
Posted by mississippivol on Saturday, September 28, 2013 4:18 PM

If your brush marks look ok, but really pop out if you glosscote for decals (and you may not have to with Gunze as I understand), sometimes the dullcote will blend them back in. I had handbrushed a P-51 with Model Master flats, and it looked good until I clearcoated for the decals, and all those brush marks popped out, but disappeared again when I put the dullcote on.

Glenn

  • Member since
    October 2013
Posted by TamiyaLover on Monday, October 7, 2013 10:02 AM

Hello !

I think I found the video!!!

I asked my Japanese friends to help identify the powder. It is Calcium Carbonate, you can find that in the Vitamin section CVS, Walmart etc...

Finished airplane, stunning!

Great considering how difficult or impossible as people say Mr Color is to brush paint...

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Monday, October 7, 2013 10:34 AM

Neato! Thanks for looking that up. I wonder what the calcium carbonate does? Do you have a link to the Vidoe?

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, October 7, 2013 2:46 PM

I won't say that brush painting Mr Color is impossible, but it certainly is a challenge. I went back for touch ups with a ratio of 3 parts paint to 2 parts thinner and it behaved a bit better. I still prefer my Humbrols. There is certainly no advantge of Mr Color there, smell, solvents/thinners, clean up, etc. and definately not handbrushing. But I won't look a gift horse in the mouth- I did win them in a raffle and they do me no good sitting there un used on my paint rack.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    October 2013
Posted by TamiyaLover on Monday, October 7, 2013 2:58 PM

What kind of Humbrol are you using? I tried the acrylics and i LOVE them :) I was very glad to find them at my LHS!!

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, October 7, 2013 11:03 PM

I use the Humbrol enamels that both of the LHSs carry. The ones that come in the little tins. I have yet to see their acrylics available here in the USA. If I ever do, I will give them a try

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

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