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Can You Mix MM & Testors Enamel Paints?

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  • Member since
    December 2011
Can You Mix MM & Testors Enamel Paints?
Posted by Chrisk-k on Sunday, October 27, 2013 7:33 PM

I have a bunch of MM & Testors enamel paints. Can I mix MM & Testors?

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, October 27, 2013 8:24 PM

Yes, you can mix those enamels together to make custom colors.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2013
Posted by blackdog62 on Monday, October 28, 2013 8:07 AM

You can as long as there there both the oil base version. That's to say they both clean up with paint thinner. Not water.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, October 28, 2013 8:45 AM

I mix MM and the square bottle stuff all the time.

I applaud your desire to mix colors.  Too many folks these days will not attempt it. If it doesn't come in a bottle they are lost.  BTW, you might consider picking up a book on oil or acrylic painting at a library if you are unsure about how to mix colors to get the shades you want.  Most beginners books on picture painting include a chapter or so on mixing colors.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Monday, October 28, 2013 9:13 PM

I use enamels for dry brushing and painting small tools on tanks. Accurate color reproduction isn't too important for such applications. That's why I can afford mixing colors :-)  

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, October 28, 2013 9:18 PM

oh yeah, that is perfect for you then to mix just the right shade.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    June 2012
Posted by Compressorman on Tuesday, October 29, 2013 2:29 PM

Don,

I love to mix custom colors. I come from a background of painting on canvas and mixing colors for that is standard procedure. I do not find that it works as well for me in model paint however. I mix little tiny dots/puddles of it on a hard plastic surface and find that it dries far too quickly to really be useful. One can work around this and mix a larger portion of your custom color to slow drying but I usually dont need that much. After trying this too many times with unhappy results I just bit the bullet and began to acquire the large collection of colors that most modelers seem to have  :(. I use enamels btw

I would love to hear of your experiences in getting around this or any advice that you have to offer.

Chris

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: near Nashville, TN
Posted by TarnShip on Tuesday, October 29, 2013 3:16 PM

as a counterpoint on the color mixing deal,,,,I used to mix colors, but, that was in my Floquil and Enamel days, I didn't want to have to do that anymore after changing paint types

since switching to Acrylics,,,,,,,I just went and bought paint one bottle of each color at a time (later buying more of the "right" ones),,,,,,,and matched them up to actual standards,,,,,relabeling the caps as I came across "matches" that didn't match

I now have 352 matches to standards, and only have 10 colors that I might have to mix (no one makes those 10 colors in any model paint range, although some were labeled as matches)

Rex

almost gone

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Wednesday, October 30, 2013 12:29 PM

Don't be afraid of mixing colors.  I needed just a small dab of burnt iron for four exhaust pipes.  Rather than go out and spend $3.69 for another bottle of paint, I just mixed some exhaust color with some burnt sienna and came out with a pretty good representation of burnt iron.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Wednesday, October 30, 2013 3:49 PM

When I dry brushed tank tracks with Testors silver, the result was too conspicuous and too glossy.

I mixed MM flat black with Testors silver and dry brushed Hetzer tracks which had been washed with burnt umber pigments. I love the result!

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Thursday, October 31, 2013 8:50 AM

Sounds like you mixed up a color close to Gunmetal, Chrisk? The MM bottles are made by Testors too right? So mixing should be no prob. I always mix in those small stainless dishes you can buy from Tamiya or Gunze. the paint doesn't stick well to them and they are easy to wipe dry when done, but you have to work fast.

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, October 31, 2013 2:00 PM

Chrisk-k

When I dry brushed tank tracks with Testors silver, the result was too conspicuous and too glossy.

I mixed MM flat black with Testors silver and dry brushed Hetzer tracks which had been washed with burnt umber pigments. I love the result!

The only part of a tank track that would look realistic drybrushed with silver are those that have metal to metal contact. Otherwise, Testors Steel is real good for using to drybrush the parts that contact the ground or rubber rimmer roadwheels. You can mix that with a drop or two of Testors Rubber to get a more brownish steel such as was reportedly found on German armor due to the high manganese contenet in the steel.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

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