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How to tone down my RLM camo

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  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Thursday, February 6, 2014 4:41 PM

The mix ratio is 2 parts Vallejo PolyU matte varnish and 1 part distilled water + a drop of Flow Aid.  1:1 results in a satin finish.  

I just spray Future after a base coat and camo patterns are done to protect them.  I use Mona Lisa mineral spirits and MIG or W&N oil paints.  Future, once cured, seems impervious to mineral spirits.

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    March 2011
Posted by Josy11 on Thursday, February 6, 2014 10:57 AM

Hi ChrisK,

Thank you for responding. I was planning at this time to try them both - Also, If I remember correctly fromother posts, you utilize Vallejo polyurethane varnishes - if so, did I remmber correclty you thin them 50:50 with distilled water and a drop or two of flow aid and clean everything up with simple green?- I would like to try my Vallejo Polyurethane varnishes here, to gloss up decal, then varnis either gloss,satin, or matt, depending on what is best for oil dots

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Wednesday, February 5, 2014 7:55 PM

I used to spray heavily thinned Tamiya Buff.  But nowadays I use oil dot filters.  I personally find dot filters to result in a more natural fading effect.

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Wednesday, February 5, 2014 6:18 PM

Perfect! Use Tamiya buff thinned with 75% Mr. Color thinner. See how it works!! On that Ta 152 build I did do an overall oil wash, then dot filters on the wing tops and wing root areas.

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2011
Posted by Josy11 on Wednesday, February 5, 2014 6:14 PM

HI Nathan

Once again, you come to my rescue. I completely forgot I can use my Vallejo or Tamiya paints - I actually have Tamiya buff from my last project which was German armor. I would agree that the amount of fading on you very nice looking Talon above, but I love the faded look. I am assuming you did both traditional oil based washes as well as oil dots from your comments?

I also just thought of I need to get my decals on before I start fading everything as well

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Wednesday, February 5, 2014 11:38 AM

It wouldn't have to be Gunze paint, but it would have to be a type of paint that is able to thin way down and still airbrush well. Tamiya also comes to mind for this, you can thin it with the Gunze Mr. Color thinner too. I'm sure your Hobby shop carries Tamiya paints?

Here's a Ta 152 I painted using Mr. Color rlm 82 and 83. I did what I said above and darkened the 82 with 83, then gave it a wash with oil paints, and applied dot filters with green, yellow, and brown oils:

Note that in real life, the contrast on Me 262s was usually more than on my model.

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Houston, Texas
Posted by panzerpilot on Wednesday, February 5, 2014 11:34 AM

Something you may try is a sludge wash. I did this with the RLM on a recent 109. I started with a concentration on panel lines, then ran the "dirty" Q-Tip back with the wing chord, front to back in a very mild streaking action. It made a subtle "blend" that I really like, as well as weathering it. I was using Flory Dark Dirt, with a little bit of Grey along the darker areas. Best thing about that stuff is it is very forgiving, since it's clay based. Use too much, and you can just clean it off with a damp paper towel.

-Tom

  • Member since
    March 2011
Posted by Josy11 on Wednesday, February 5, 2014 10:59 AM

Hi Nathan

Thanks for the reply. I also like your idea and had not thought of using oil dot filters - that is an outstanding idea. I have to look in my Gunze collection to see if I have a buff or dirty brown - not sure I do

I am forced to get my Gunze paints mail order as my local hobby shop is always out of these paints - one shipment a year - Also, thanks for the complement - This is only my second plane since coming back to this hobby as a kid and it was my first try at the Mr. Color line - I painted first plane in Vallejo Model air and liked those paints as well - The Mr. Color went on easier in my opinion and certainly covered well. I just need to make the contrast lower and a bit more realistic - I also tried PE for the first time on this plane as well - more of a mixed bag on that one

Joe

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Wednesday, February 5, 2014 10:48 AM

I don't think I'd lighten the greeen color. This in one rare instance when Gunze got the RLM 82 color a little wrong. Its too light to start with. What I do when painting this color ( I use the Gunze water based paints) is mix some rlm 83 dark green in with the 82 light green. Its obviously too late for you to do this, so I would again say to mist a light buff/dirty brown over everything, highly thinned. As far as filters, you can take your oil paints and apply them in really small dots with a toothpick over the entire model (I do wings first, then fuselage to work in smaller areas at a time). Use colors such as browns, greens, yellows, tans, then take a soft wide brush and blend them into eachother, a little at a time, and streak them in the direction of airflow. You'll have to wipe the excess off your brush from time to time, and use a little thinner (mineral spirits, or turpenoid) to keep the brush clean. Blend the dots together until they almost disappear, leaving a slight discoloration, fading of the surface. Thats a nice looking airbrush job so far though!

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2011
Posted by Josy11 on Wednesday, February 5, 2014 10:26 AM

Hi Don

Thanks for the reply. I like your idea. The lightest color on the top camo is the RLM 82, which is the "kelly Green" as I call it - To lighten the green color - should I use a few drops of white?

I don't think these planes spent much time exposed in the sun on the ground though...

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, February 5, 2014 9:41 AM

I sometimes airbrush on a very light coat of light gray or a lightened color of the lightest color in the camouflage over top of horizontal surfaces and top of the fuselage to simulate chalking and fading of paint due to sunlight.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Cameron, Texas
Posted by Texgunner on Tuesday, February 4, 2014 11:06 PM

Josy11

Hi TexGunner

Thanks for the recipe. I am going to give it a try here and link to my photobucket image

If it makes it, you can see how strong the contrast is in the camo  - I promise I will post pics when she is complete

 

You're quite welcome.  Hey, it must've worked, eh?  Good for you! Drinks


"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"

  • Member since
    March 2011
Posted by Josy11 on Tuesday, February 4, 2014 9:00 PM

Hi TexGunner

Thanks for the recipe. I am going to give it a try here and link to my photobucket image

If it makes it, you can see how strong the contrast is in the camo  - I promise I will post pics when she is complete

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Cameron, Texas
Posted by Texgunner on Tuesday, February 4, 2014 3:27 PM

Josy11

 any idea on how I can post an image?

It's not that hard.

1. You have Photobucket account

2.  You download pics from your computer

3.  Open the pic on Photobucket

4.  To the right of the full-sized pic will be a group of options called "Links to share this photo"

5.  The fourth one down is the one you want-"img"

6.  click on that link and it will say "copied"

7.  Go to your post on FSM and right click "paste"

8.  Your pic will now appear in the post

Give that a try and see if it doesn't help.  Good luck to you sir.


"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"

  • Member since
    March 2011
Posted by Josy11 on Tuesday, February 4, 2014 2:43 PM

Hi Nathan

I like the idea of using a Tan mix to blend them, but I will have to switch to my acrylics for that. I also have oils at my disposal, but i was thinking of making a filter outof them. Did you have something else in mind?

I have most of the camo down already, only minor touch ups and mottles near the rudder and where the upper fuse meets the RLM 76

I was mistaken about galleries, I cant seem to find one. When I created this post there was an insert image that wanted an URL to an existing media, which made me think it wanted a posted image elsewhere on the site. The only alternative I could think of was to tpye in the actual file path of my image on my PC? - I haven't seen that since DOS, so I must be missing something - any idea on how I can post an image?

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Tuesday, February 4, 2014 2:24 PM

I hope you figure out the pics soon, as I'd like to see your work! Luftwaffe camo is tough sometimes to get realistic looking. Is it too late to mix a little 81 brown-violet in with your 82 light green, to get the 82 to appear darker and less contrast to the 81? Otherwise, try and mix up some tan color or buff, in about 80 % thinner, and give everything a fine mist. Or, fade your 81 with the airbrush to make it appear lighter in the center of panels, and on top of the fuselage spine. Filters should help blend things together as well. Were you thinking of oil paints?

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2011
How to tone down my RLM camo
Posted by Josy11 on Tuesday, February 4, 2014 2:07 PM

Hi All,

I am still getting back into modeling and my current project is a trump 1:32 Me-262. I have applied the camo colors of RLM 81, 82 on top and 76 on the bottom. I used Mr. Color Lacquers for the first time and was very pleased with them and will use them again.

Anyways, as expected, the base colors have too much contrast for my liking and I am now thinking a few steps ahead to how to go about toning down the contrast and unifying the scheme. I am currently completing the base colors, as i have to paint a few doors I forgot, mottle the rudder and lower halves, etc. After this my plans are to gloss the ship , decal, then gloss coat again to seal, then go after the "zebra" I have created with the base colors. I was thinking about two approaches

1) Overall wash, but I am concerned that this wash will also darken the panel lines a bit too much, as the Me-262 often had significant putty in the real bird in the panel lines to reduce drag, so I am hoping to keep the panel line subtle. I am not too concerned about this, so if a wash is the best way, then a wash it is

2) Second way is something newer for me and that would be the application of filters. I have no idea what colors I would use to tone down this beast, but thinking that filters might be the best way to go

I do not plan on major weathering of this plane, as most 262's frankly were at most 1-1.5 years in use and they only used concrete runways, so I am inclined not to weather it to the extent I would a tank, but certainly dirt, dust and crew induced chips would be nice I think

 I will try to post an image of the 262 as she is today i my gallery, as it appears I cant post images directly into this post

 

Thanks to all who respond

Joe

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