Airbrush question.

I don't see why you bought a Hp-CS to replace your HP-C. Eventhough the HP-C has a .3mm nozzle it will still spray just about any paint. It also sprays better and is smoother than the HP-CS. It is an excellent brush for model work. I have sprayed automotive laquers and urethanes as well as waterbased acrylics and have never had any problems. I don't know if this has been mentioned but Rich, Richpen, Tamyia, Iwata and a few other Japanese airbrushes are made in the same factory.

QUOTE: Originally posted by cbreeze I have a NIB C if you are interested. If not, I will just hold on to it and play with it one of these days.

Thanks, for the offer. But bought yesterday a local brush which seems to be the local equivalent to a HPC Hi-line at my LHS.

FYI, I just picked up a HP-C from Dixie Art for approx $128.00 or so. Free shipping. Once I bought the C I read that it might have been overkill for modeling use and not really suited to shoot the heavier pigmented paints modelers use. Didn't want to get rid of the C so I bought a HP-CS. I am just getting use to it but have been very pleased. I have a NIB C if you are interested. If not, I will just hold on to it and play with it one of these days.

Question:

What does the Iwata HPC Hi-line retail for on average overseas.

Just curious how they compare in price to the Wave one(12.800yen/118USD list price)

plasticmod992.

Thanks, for the comprehensive answer.

The crown cap is used to help prevent tip dry and clogs when holding the tip very close to the surface. The flat type is standard when spraying at distances of approx 4-6 in or so. I have the crown cap installed on my Iwata HP-CS and I can get some very excellent fine lines with no tip dry or clogs using enamels. Your Wave airbrushes are so similar to the Iwata HP-C Plus, that you can also just remove the cap altogether exposing the needle for even finer "tiny" lines and dot work. The *MAC (Micro Air Control) under the forward body beneath the color cups helps facilitate this.