Enter keywords or a search phrase below:
On my first build back, I completely ruined my base coat pulling off tape. I was using blue painters tape, didn't know better.
Also, base coat was MM Acryl, no primer, over an unwashed and probably heavily fingerprinted base, and no primer.
In my case, I did about everything folks above this post said not to.
Learned my lessons though.
Don't use that 3M tape. Way to sticky and tough. Not for modeling. Let your paints dry 2 days at least.
I wait at least 24 hours before masking. The 3M masking tape is much more sticky than the Tamiya tape and Parafilm. Buy a roll of Parafilm M and it'll last for a lifetime.
Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank
Koomba I am using a 3M Masking Tape on a 2" roll that I cut to fit.
I am using a 3M Masking Tape on a 2" roll that I cut to fit.
That might part of your problem. Masking tape like that is usually too sticky; it helps to stick a piece on a sheet of glass and remove it and repeat several times to lessen the "stickiness" . I would suggest though that you get some Tamiya tape. I believe you'll find that it works much better. More expensive? No doubt, but well worth the extra cost. Good luck!
Gary
"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"
I wash the plastic in soap and let them dry for a few days.
On the first one, F-22, I did use a general spray primer from the store, Krylon I believe. On the second model, I did not use any primer.
I am using Testor's Acrylics. I have since picked up some Model Masters paints to try.
How long do you suggest for a paint cure? Typically I'll give it 24 hours before I do anything at all with a painted part.
I really appreciate your feedback and suggestions!
I second the use of primer. Although most styrene kits do not suffer from excessive mold release, there are some kits that do. Washing the kit parts before starting the assembly and painting is not always needed, it never hurts. I personally use primer and it also helps, as Chris says. And letting paints dry/cure longer is always a good idea.
If you do wash the plastic, it is also important to rinse thorougly. Soap film left on the plastic can be as bad as mold release oil for paint adhesion.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Paint dry is different from paint cure. Make sure you let the paint cure. Also, you may want to use a primer. Use low-tac masking stuff like Tamiya tape or Parafilm M.
Testors Model Maser Acrylics are terrible for this. Is that what your using now? You also need to wipe down the plastic before you lay down your first coat. Use Alcohol or Testor's plastic prep. Are you priming first?
What sort of tape were you using?
Greetings Community!
Recently I've returned to modeling, in the past I had used "Rattle Cans" and brushes to paint.As I've returned, I've purchased an airbrush and compressor.
The problem I'm experiencing is paint coming off of my models with the masking tape. For example, on a Hasegawa 1/48 F-22 I taped, painted. Let it dry, then taped over the painted area and painted some more. When taking the masking tape off, a majority of the paint (This instance was on the leading edge of the wings) came off. I was using some arts and craft paints, when that happened, I stopped.
In the next instance, I wanted to test it out, I combined Testors paints, 10 drops of white and 1 drop of blue. To test it out, I put some tape on the body, again it came right off.What am I doing wrong?Thanks in advance for your help and comments.
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.