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first aircraft..painting questions

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  • Member since
    February 2014
first aircraft..painting questions
Posted by RBT413 on Thursday, March 13, 2014 12:41 PM

 Yesteray I picked up my first aircraft..Testor P-51D Mustang in 1/48. This model has much larger areas to paint than my first two (a Tamuiya Willys and early M4 sherman).

Considering that and the fact that I am not airbrushing ( using old fashioned brushes only to this point), does anyone have tips to brushing large surface areas (wings, fueselage) so as to make it look decent?

Thanks!

  • Member since
    May 2013
Posted by Snibs on Thursday, March 13, 2014 2:00 PM

Hi RBT413.

A decent quality large flat brush and maybe thinning the paint a little if it's thick but I would do some practice on a old model or something just to get the hang of it. If you ever decide to get a airbrush you would not regret it, the finish is so much nicer.

Maybe a spray can if it's just one or two colours?

Cheers from Mick.

Some stuff that might be interesting.

https://sites.google.com/view/airbrush-and-modeling/home

On The Bench.

Tiger 1 and Tooheys.

 

G-J
  • Member since
    July 2012
Posted by G-J on Thursday, March 13, 2014 7:46 PM

What Snibs said.  I have a bunch of different brushes, but a a wide flat one will help with the bigger areas.

On the bench:  Tamyia Mosquito Mk. VI for the '44 group build.  Yes, still.

On deck: 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, March 13, 2014 8:35 PM

Good quality brushes are a must. On large surface areas like that, I prefer natural compared to synthetic bristles. Also you paint choice is important. Some paints (Tamiya being the prime example) do not hand brush well. Other acrylics are often translucent when hand brushed. Since you're sound a P-51D and those were most commonly in bare metal, I will suggest simple and reliable- Testors square bottle Flat Aluminum. It is easily found, hand brushes and covers well, and will get the job done. Grab some of their Olive Drab for the anti glare panel, Flat Black for the propellor blades and tires and you will be basically set.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, March 14, 2014 9:11 AM

For good brush painting you still need to thin the paints.  Put on very thin coats, and you will have to put on several to get adequate opacity.  Sometimes, just like with airbrush, but on coats in different brush directions, i.e, spanwise on one coat, chordwise on the next.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: England
Posted by P mitch on Friday, March 14, 2014 9:19 AM

Add a little paint retarder as well. Use one from the same paint manufacturer. It will slow the drying time and allow the brush marks to settle more.

Phil

"If anybody ever tells you anything about an aeroplane which is so bloody complicated you can't understand it, take it from me: it's all balls." R J Mitchell


  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, March 14, 2014 11:05 AM

Enamels do not need a paint retarder. Only if you are usin acrylics do you have to use that stuff. Thinning may or may not apply to whichever paint brand and type that you use.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

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