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Painting, Making Sense of It All

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  • Member since
    February 2014
  • From: Cincinnati, OH
Painting, Making Sense of It All
Posted by Valkyrie on Sunday, March 16, 2014 12:51 PM

I've returned to modeling after many years and am a bit overwhelmed at the choices available for painting.  I've been reviewing posts concerning painting with great interest and have read articles in FSM.  The following table is my understanding at this point.  I know it's general and I've probably missed things.  Would you experts take a look and give feedback?

Assuming undercoat is   FULLY cured
Apply Over > Acrylics Enamels Lacquers
Acrylics > yes yes yes
Enamels > yes,but   2 or 4 yes, but 3 or 4 yes, but 4
Lacquers > yes, but 4 yes, but 1 or 4 yes
Notes:  1 Light application, such as Dullcote
2 Acrylic basecoat for Enamal or Oil washs
3 Don't use Enamal or Oil washs
4 Use a barrier coat, such as Future

Thanks in advance!!!

Al

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Sunday, March 16, 2014 6:34 PM

Sounds like you're on the right track. Just remember, you can use whatever type of wash you want, as long as you use the appropriate barrier gloss coat. For example, if you do all your painting with enamels, you can still use enamel washes as long as you use an acrylic clear coat as a barrier.

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Sunday, March 16, 2014 7:16 PM

As long as (1) the under coat is fully cured and/or (2) a protective barrier (e.g., Future) is applied, there should be no problem. I use Tamiya acrylics for my base coats and camos, MM enamels for detail painting and oil washes. I let Tamiya acrylics cure for 48 hours and then paint with enamels and apply oil washes. I've never had a single problem.

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  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, March 17, 2014 9:04 AM

Dry to the touch does not mean cured. One thing that helps is a drying "oven". I made a simple two chamber box, with a 60 watt light bulb in the bottom and a removable cover for the top, the area the model or part goes. it does speed up drying and curing of enamels a whole lot!

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    October 2010
Posted by hypertex on Monday, March 17, 2014 11:40 AM

I mostly agree with your table. I frequently apply lacquers over acrylics without a barrier, as do others when they spray dullcote over acrylics: with light coats. And remember that future/klear is an acrylic, but not at all similar to acrylic paints. So I might suggest you also reference note 1 in your "lacquer over acrylic" box.

In fact, I always follow note 1 whenever I paint. I was taught to "build up the color slowly." So for me, note one applies to the whole table!

Oh, and the other thing I would add to the top of your table is "Always test on scrap plastic before you paint your model."

Chris

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