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Paint backing up into airbrush body needle tube

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  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Paint backing up into airbrush body needle tube
Posted by Greg on Friday, March 28, 2014 12:31 PM

To clarify, I am talking about when I pull the needle from the body (always from the nose end), the paint on the middle section of the needle and inside the body thru hole.

I realize a certain amount of this is normal, but am wondering two specific things:

1. This seems to happen more with thicker paint (ie, Vallejo primer which is recommended to shoot out of bottle, un-thinned.  I tend to let dry tip get ahead of me, and am wondering if when the dry tip condition occurs, if this would blow paint back onto the rear of the needle and inside the guide tube?

2. I worry about running pipe cleaner through that inner needle thru hole. I seem to have to do this a lot, and I worry about enlarging the hole. Should I worry?

TIA for you thoughts.

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Friday, March 28, 2014 1:03 PM

Hey there, buddy!

I guess you are talking about your Evolution, aren't you?

To answer your questions:

1) I normally don't shoot any paint (especially Vallejo primers) unthinned. The only exception would be Alclad paints and primers (they are extremely thin already). Thinning the paint results in tip drying occuring less often. Air always takes the path with the least resistance, which means that once the tip of your needle gets clogged with paint, not all of the air is going to travel through the front end of your AB. That could indeed cause a bit of paint getting in places where it shouldn't be.

2) I never clean that area of my Evolution with a pipe cleaner or anything similar. I just flush out the paint using strong acrylic cleaner. If the paint is really tough to get out, I sometimes use the same paper towel/kitchen roll trick I mentioned in that cleaning tutorial (just make a larger cone). Pipe cleaners sound like a really good idea though (never thought of that). If you are referring to the hole right behind the paint cup, don't worry about it. The Evolution is a really tough Airbrush and the only 2 things you really have to watch out are the needle and nozzle. So let's say you do actually manage to get that hole any larger by using pipe cleaners, it wouldn't change anything. The hole is already a lot larger than the needle (the only thing that goes through it) so it really doesn't matter if it gets a wee bit bigger Wink

I hope this hleps...

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Friday, March 28, 2014 3:23 PM

Hi Greg - For all of my needle type AB's, I sometimes find slight paint residue on the needle mid section, not always, but it does happen. I use the Regdab lube, that seems to minimize it, I've never had residue travel past the rear end of the needle bearing, into the body. Once the needle is removed, (as you said always to the front,) I use a bulb type pipette and the appropriate thinning agent to flush fluid through the needle bearing, at least two or three times.

IMPORTANT, always hold the AB facing downward when flushing through the bearing, or residue can enter the trigger valve assembly. Don Wheeler has an excellent example of a dental mini brush tool he made, posted on his site. I have one now, (thanks Don,) used with thinner it does a super job of cleaning the more difficult areas, it easily passes through the needle bearing as well, (if needed).

Tip wiping at frequent steps as you spray seems critical, buildup causes problems in more ways than one. Small cotton pads with a drop of thinner swipes them straight away, just a habit for me now, works great. I don't spray thick materials ever, even primers are reduced considerably, just takes more passes but results in better finishes and less details lost.

The bearing is actually pretty durable, just don't force any thing through it that may have sharp metal ends, that could mar the internal surface. The very long toothpicks that can be found work well, they can sort of scrub the sides as you gently move them in and out while wet with thinner inside. Again. always facing front side down. (Took me a while to always remember this.)

Patrick  

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Friday, March 28, 2014 6:39 PM

I shoot Vallejo primer & varnish only using my Paasche H.  The Vallejo primer dries very fast and once it starts to dry, it's very tough to remove it even with Vallejo cleaner.  Worse, the V primer is very thick and is likely lead to lots of problems with an AB.  And yet Vallejo recommends spraying it out of the bottle to preserve its characteristics.  I shoot it at 30-35 psi.

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Saturday, March 29, 2014 12:59 PM

Great info! Thanks for the great ideas, Clemens, Patrick and Chris!

Clemens, all makes sense. Thanks for your comprehensive reply. I was referring the the entire hole through the brush body. Your excellent twisted up tissue idea (which I do use as you showed me), wouldn't work to get through that.

Patrick, I really like your pipette/flush idea. I am definitely going to give that a go (vertically, I'll remember) and try to stop running that pipe cleaner through. Also, need to take a look at the brush and the parts diagram again, wasn't even aware there was a rear bearing, but that certainly makes sense and I hear what you're saying about using care not damage it. BTW, I've not had paint extend back past where it must me either, so I guess I haven't ruined it yet.

Chris, yes the Vallejo primer does tend to get gunky. But I love the stuff too. Interesting that you have you Paasche H dedicated for Vallejo primer and varnish.

So then, are we saying that yes, dry tip can contribute to paint getting 'blown' back into the airbrush body hole?

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