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I'm using Model Master Enamel silver paint and every time I try to mask it or paint over it with some other color when I peel the tape (I'm using low tac painters tape} I still peel off the color either silver or in this case gull gray. In this case it was gray over silver In some cases I have tried dull silver over bright silver with the same problem.
Very unusual. How long are you giving the enamel to dry and cure before masking the base color and then painting over it?
F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!
U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
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LSM
Most likely not long enough about several hours. But even when I have left the silver set several days I have had this problem.
And this is enamels not acrylics? Are you painting on a plastic model, or is it resin? usually any enamel has enough teeth to hold onto plastic after drying overnight. What thinner are you using?
Yes Enamels only and plain Walmart paint thinner and yes plastic models These are Testors 1/72 scale B-58's
I would suggest letting the base coat dry (and thus set) for a full 24 hours before masking. I would also suggest de-tacking the tape by putting the sticky side on your pants and peeling it up (do that a couple of times). Even though painter's tape is supposedly low tack it really isn't when you're talking about models. Another suggestion is to use a primer before the base coat is applied. Could be you've got some release oils leaking into the base coat. You might also consider using a different thinner, something like Testor's thinner for airbrushing, mineral spirits or xylene. All of those work well with enamels. If the tape continues to peel the paint try using Tamiya tape which is really low tack and not prohibitively expensive.
Dave
Yeah, my next questions would be, what sort of masking tape are you using and are you doing any surface prep, clean up, or priming? Some maskng tapes are stronger than others and can pull up paint more easily than others. I highly recommend Tamiya maskng tape after too many other experiences similar to your own. But still we could be missing something in the equation here.
Overnight is usually not long enough for Testors enamels. I use it exclusively. Drying/hardening time does vary with weather (temp and humidity). I have had it take as long as three days. Consequently I have built a dryer box so that it does harden overnight, or even less, again depending on weather. Some folks use a food dryer, but those run hot enough to sometimes warp plastic so I decided to build my own drying chamber using a 60W incandescent light bulb. Certainly don't reqret it- I recommend anyone using enamels to consider making one, until a good one is available already built, at a reasonable price.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Like to see your plans for that dryer
Make sure you clean the parts prior to painting them. Finger oils and mold release don't make for good paint adhesion. I like to wash parts in a warm dish soap and water solution (gently, and in a container so no parts are lost) followed by a warm rinse and air dry. After assembly I use a lint-free cloth with denatured alcohol to wipe things down and wear white cotton archivist's gloves to keep skin oils off.
If tape is causing trouble you might try using dampened paper (newsprint works great) to mask areas. Basically you cut the paper to the shape needed, soak it in water, apply it to the area then gently blot it down to adhere it to the model and remove excess water. Paint while still damp and then remove. Be careful with acrylics, if the paper is too damp it will wick the paint down to the surface you're trying to mask.
Tarasdad
On the Bench:
I have experienced the same thing even after a few days of curing time. To eliminate this problem I spray the metallic color last so that I'm masking around it as in the F-14 I'm working on now where the last color to shoot is the NM leading edges.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
cvsaylr Like to see your plans for that dryer Dave
Never completed the drawings- maybe I can find them and finish them. But maybe I can make a good enough word description. I took one of those polyethylene cases we carry our models to meets and shows in, and turned it upside down. Carved out most of the center of the lid- now the bottom.
Made a box with particle board the length and width of that storage container, and about 10 inches high. Made the top removable for replacing light bulb (a 60 Watt incandescent- buy them while you can, they will not be mfgd anymore). Mounted one of those porcelin bases for a light in the bottom, a switch on one of t he sides. Drilled a bunch of holes in one end, and in the top, to allow air flow from end, over the bulb, and up through the box lid into the storage container. Drilled several holes in the top of container (was the bottom originally). Covered all holes with those dust filters you put in hot air registers, to keep dust out of container. I screwed down the remainder of the top (now the bottom) of the plastic container, to the lid of the box. With the 60 W bulb the dryer runs about 105F. Warm enough to dry paint faster, not too hot to warp plastic. The holes and filters allow convective flow of hot air through the storage container, where the models go.
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