Testors paints

Perhaps you should email that question to them and share any answer that you get on here. Usually their MM lines will have a "F", "SG", or "G" on the label somewhere for flat, semi gloss, or gloss. The FS number paints are easy enough to figure out without the letters. And many of the paint names do have the finish in the name.

Are you sure its not Model Master's notorious inconsistent viscosity from bottle to bottle that's screwing up your thinning ratios?

I bought several bottles of their enamels.(In the original sizes bottles). Geez!!! Warning labels on three sides. The 4th side has a barcode and the color of paint in itty bitty (size 3-4 font) letters!

I rechecked the labels and there were no G, SG or F designations on them. I contacted Testors  ( now owned by Rust-oleum!) and they said I must have an inconsistent batch.

I have also been bothered by Testors not having some consistant way to indicate whether the paint is gloss or flat.  In the FS colors, I guess they stick to what the standard was.  But they offer many paints which are not FS paints, and these are still a problem.  I use primarily Testors paints and stick with them, but do agree that there are some problems with them. But then, I have found other problems with other brands I have tried- pays your nickel and takes your choice.  One of the problems with Testors enamels (and some other enamels) is that they do harden in the jar once it is opened the first time.  This in-bottle hardening may look like inconsistant thinning, but is really just the hardening.

JM -  When you buy MM enamels from the rack, look for both the guide that is part of the display rack, AND the bottles individually, for FS numbering code. The numbers 1, 2 and 3 will indicate gloss, semi gloss or flat. That will be identified by the FIRST number in the FS code, both on the rack guide and the bottle.

Example as read from my stash - MM Gloss Gull Gray is FS 16440

                                                     MM Flat Olive Drab is  FS 34087

As to drying in bottle after opening, I always clean the threads, top rim and cap interior thoroughly before storing. A messy top area allows air in while stored. A quick wipe with clean tissue and thinner cleans it all like new. I have bottles that are years old, still very useable.

I never shake the bottles to mix, I use a metal dental spatula for complete stirring, then a Badger paint mixer for final blend or adding thinner. The bottle top just stays that much more clean and the paint remains usable much longer. I avoid pouring out of the bottle, I use straws, finger over one end, pull out whatever paint I need, neat transfer that way. Hope this helps.

Patrick    

I never knew those first MM numbers meant something. Thanks a million!