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Airbrush parts stuck

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  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: Ottawa,Ontario,Canada
Airbrush parts stuck
Posted by modeler#1 on Monday, April 28, 2014 7:20 AM
After a long break from airbrushing I went to clean it before a paint session. To my dismay the nozzle wouldn't come apart from the pcice that holds it in. Any suggestions how I could remove it?

On the Bench: Nothing atm

  • Member since
    February 2015
Posted by Bick on Monday, April 28, 2014 7:26 AM

What airbrush is it? Could it be old, hard, dried paint so a soak in appropriate solvent might help?

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Monday, April 28, 2014 7:43 AM

I have an all metal Bager and that's what works for me

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: Ottawa,Ontario,Canada
Posted by modeler#1 on Monday, April 28, 2014 9:57 AM
It's a badger 150 the prices stuck is the nozzle and the pice that holds the nozzle in place.

On the Bench: Nothing atm

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Monday, April 28, 2014 10:55 AM

modeler#1
It's a badger 150 the prices stuck is the nozzle and the pice that holds the nozzle in place.

 

Thats the brush I have also,If it's jammed with acrylics,then alcohol works,enamels you can soak it in thinner,it should loosen up.Take it apart and clean it well and reassemble

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: Ottawa,Ontario,Canada
Posted by modeler#1 on Monday, April 28, 2014 11:06 AM
Thanks! That was my suspicion

On the Bench: Nothing atm

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: Ottawa,Ontario,Canada
Posted by modeler#1 on Monday, April 28, 2014 4:47 PM

Yep dried paint was the problem, took it apart and gave it a extensive cleaning seems to work better now. as a side note what airbrush cleaner do you guys prefer?

On the Bench: Nothing atm

  • Member since
    May 2012
  • From: Pennsylvania
Posted by pilotjohn on Monday, April 28, 2014 6:52 PM

I use different ones for the brand of paint.  I only spray acrylics, so I can't speak to enamels or lacquers.

For all Testors Model Master I use their universal acryl cleaner.  For Tamiya I use 90% IPA since I read that you can thin theirs with alcohol which I have done and it has been just fine to spray.  Most folks use their thinner, but I have never had a problem with just plain IPA and it is cheaper.  The only other thing I spray is Future for gloss coats and use Windex in to clean the airbursh.

Never had any issues with the airbrushes using any of these.

John

  • Member since
    May 2012
  • From: Pennsylvania
Posted by pilotjohn on Monday, April 28, 2014 7:17 PM

Forgot to add that I clean Vallejo paints with Testors Acryl thinner also.

John

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Monday, April 28, 2014 7:25 PM

For cleaning,I just use alcohol,for Vallejo,just tap water.

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Monday, April 28, 2014 7:37 PM

Modeler#1 -  I use the same thinner that is going through the airbrush with the paint, enamel - enamel,

lacquer - lacquer, etc. I don't think just spraying thinner through the airbrush when finished is sufficient for complete cleaning, a disassembly and individual parts cleaning, followed by some lube will ensure all paint is removed. That includes the needle as well. It may seem a bit much, but it really doesn't take very long and will ensure full function and long component life.

I highly recommend a look at Don's Airbrush site, really comprehensive information on all matters relating to airbrush use and care. I've been airbrushing for many years and felt comfortable with how I was caring for my equipment, I learned LOT'S 0f very valuable additional knowledge from Don's site. Some of my Badger and Paasche airbrushes are 40+ years old and work well, with good care they can last as long as you want to use them.

Let us know how you do with your brush, Patrick  

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