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Sealing prior to wash/filter coat. Attack of the thinner! Advice appreciated...

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  • Member since
    May 2014
Sealing prior to wash/filter coat. Attack of the thinner! Advice appreciated...
Posted by bumper on Tuesday, July 1, 2014 7:14 AM

Hey All,

I'm wrapping up painting a bust I sculpted and have some questions about sealing one's model prior to applying your thinned wash. 

My bust is just about done but I would like to enter into my next project a bit better prepared. Smile

I sealed it with Golden Varnish (acrylic suspended in mineral spirits) and washed it with oil paints thinned with drying linseed oil. I'm happy with the results (my 1st time with oils), but it appears it's going to take days to dry.

What I would have rather done is use mineral spirits or a turpenoid as my thinner as they naturally dry much faster than the linseed oil.

However, I have had bad luck with removing washes with solvents as they eat into my gloss coat. Yet in the meanwhile I read of people having no problem with this technique.

What sealing/gloss coats can I apply that won't get eaten by my wash solvent?

**On a side note; once my current piece is dry, what's a good means to seal over my oil paint/linseed coat? I gather the Golden acrylic spray doesn't adhere to oils well.**

Thanks!!

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Tuesday, July 1, 2014 7:34 AM

You need to seal it with a non oil based clear coat, such as windsor and Newton Acrylic Varnish, Vallejo, Tamiya...any of those acrylic brands.

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by bumper on Tuesday, July 1, 2014 7:44 AM

Hi Nathan,

Thank you for your reply. I've done that in the past and the acrylic didn't hold up to the solvent. Now that I think about it though, I'm wiling to bet I was being impatient and didn't give the acrylic enough time to dry and really harden up.

I will use an acrylic next time and ensure it is fully dry. Thanks again.

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Tuesday, July 1, 2014 10:12 AM

I have never had a problem of mineral spirits (regular, Mona Lisa) eating acrylics. You need to let the acrylic cure, not just dry.

Don't use linseed oil on models.  It takes weeks (or even months) for it to cure.

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by bumper on Tuesday, July 1, 2014 12:22 PM

Indeed curing/patience is key. I need to work on the latter...

Yeah, I wish I hadn't used linseed oil. Granted I used the 'drying' variety, but I think I'm in for the long haul. I'm planning to port the dry/warm output from a dehumidifier directly onto my model via a dryer hose, in hopes of speeding the process up a bit.

  • Member since
    October 2010
Posted by hypertex on Wednesday, July 2, 2014 12:19 PM

That Golden MSA varnish is designed to be the final finish; it's not intended to be painted over. It is also designed to be removed with mineral spirits even after curing is complete. So I think you are using the wrong product to apply a mineral spirit wash to, even if you let it fully cure.

To answer your question, I too have had no trouble with a mineral spirit wash over water-based acrylic varnishes such as MM Acryl and Tamiya. These acrylic paints do not dissolve with mineral spirits once cured, unlike the Golden varnish.

I do think you are on the right track in wanting to thin your oils with spirits rather than oil. Oil has its uses (I use poppy oil sometimes), but thinning isn't one of them.

I also recommend testing on scrap before applying to a piece I really care about.

Chris

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Wednesday, July 2, 2014 1:14 PM

Just apply Future or Tamiya Clear before oil washes. Once cured, they are impervious to mineral spirits.

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

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