Iwata Eclipse trouble/question

1) you could try putting the nozzle / cap in the freezer - the nozzle may shrink more quickly than the cap allowing separation. If that fails & you know a plumber, they may have a more effective freeze kit.

2) Possibly - it sounds like the raised sections inside the cap that locate &seat the nozzle have "bitten" into the nozzle. Sorry, thinking about wrong nozzle type there.... Again, it's possible, but I would have thought that contamination or corrosion would be more likely to be the cause.

3) I believe that the cap is harder than the nozzle, so it should be ok. As long as the sealing face is reasonably smooth & the cap is still round.

4) Wouldn't think so.  

I don't see how overtightening the cap would make the nozzle stuck.  The cap is much harder than the nozzle, so overtightening breaks or damages the nozzle.  

To me, the only reason why your nozzle was stuck is there was paint residue and it dried and bonded the nozzle to the cap.  Don't underestimate the bonding power of cured paints.  A friend's AB's needle and nozzle stuck together due to less than perfect cleaning.  We couldn't separate them.

Hi Greg,

I won't venture an opinion about what caused it but see Don's HP-CS Page where he reports the same problem and his solution.

MilairJunkie, thank you for your comprehensive reply. Tried the freezer for a few hours, still stuck solid but that was a great idea anyway and well worth a shot. Also, I'd not considered contamination/corrosion and I think you might be onto something there (see below)

Chris, I think I have indeed underestimated the bonding characteristics of paint. (see below) Thanks!

Bick, YES! That's where I saw that post, on Don's forum. I had tried a flat toothpick, but on re-read tried a round one per Don's suggestion (after freezing). No joy. Even tried pounding on it from the business end (since the nozzle is toast at this point anyway.

BTW, long time no chat, good to hear from you, mate!

Getting back to Milair's contanimation/corrosion and Chis' comment on bonding strength of dried paint, I have remembered that when I first stared using Vallejo, I made the classic mistake of trying to clean with windex, which I had been doing with MM acryls. Perhaps that is the gunky mess that bonded the nozzle to the end cap?

I have given up at least for now, I might try to salvage the end cap later. In the meantime, replacement parts on order from Chicago Airbrush. along with a quick disconnect I've been wanting, and the needle clamping nut I lost the other night, I just bought 1/4 of a new Evolution.

Thank you all for your help!

The gunky mess of Vallejo mixed with Windex is nasty.  That was the culprit, I guess.  Should you have a stuck nozzle again, leave it in a soapy water or lacquer thinner for several minutes.  The nozzle should come loose.  

Here's what I do. My HP-CS is my main go-to AB.. After a painting session, I just shoot a thinner and use Don's pumping action method to remove paint residue from the inside (I disassemble and clean it only twice a year).  Of course, there'll still be a micro amount of paint inside.  I unlock the needle chucking screw, slightly pull back the needle, loosen the cap and store my HP-CS.  This method is not for everyone but surely prevents a stuck nozzle or needle.  

Thanks for the additional ideas, Chris. I like your method in paragraph 2.

I soaked ovenight in lacquer thinner (unplanned overkill), still no joy. Guess I join the ranks of your friend with a similar problem. Learning experience.

Greg - the most powerful cleaner I have used is acetone, (or nail polish remover,) I have seen it attack and dissolve just about any paint quite quickly. As an example, even being very careful to clean my paint brushes every few strokes with appropriate reducer, alcohol for acrylics, (except  for Vallejo,) enamel thinner for enamel paint, still it gummed up the hairs at the point where the metal flattened tube held the hairs. Plus, I kept getting tiny little specks of that dried paint in the fresh paint.

Brushes didn't last very long, one day I tried acetone, letting the brush hairs sit in a small amount for just a few minutes. The paint wad had dissolved and all that was needed was a little agitation, another rinse and tissue dry, the brush was as clean as new.

Acetone could be worth a try. FWIW, I dis-assemble and clean after every use, tiny amounts of airbrush lube in the critical areas, particularly the needle bearing and head parts, has worked well for many years. And you surely are right, parts replacement is definitely NOT inexpensive.

Best of luck with getting back in business soon.

Patrick

Patrick, thank you. I guess I never thought of acetone as a general cleaner. I certainly have some and will give it a go.

Again, thanks.