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questions about topcoats, decals, and details

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  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Sunday, August 31, 2014 6:41 AM

If possible, paint the lacquers first.  Otherwise, give the acrylics a couple days before you start applying lacquers.  

Generally you want to apply lacquers, then enamels, then acrylics.  

Some people have luck by just waiting a few days, personally, I just don't risk it.

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Saturday, August 30, 2014 7:28 PM

If the acrylic is allowed to thoroughly cure,the acrylic  should not be bothered by an enamal or laquer clear coat

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by Chape87 on Saturday, August 30, 2014 3:29 AM

Thanks so much. Really informative. Do i need to be careful with the type of paint coats i use. Most seem to be laquer. Will that mess up my acrylic paint or my decals?

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Wednesday, August 27, 2014 11:12 PM

It's going to depend on how shiny you want things as to which gloss you use (gloss, semi, or flat).  If you aren't sure what they look like, go to your local hobby shop and ask if they can show you the difference.  If not, go look in the paint section of a hardware store at the gloss, semi-gloss, and flat (ignore satin and eggshell), there will be little pieces somewhere that show the sheen of each.

Do all of your painting first.  I am guessing the detail lines are paint and not decals, yes?  If so, paint those too.  Also, are the lines recessed or raised.  If raised, I like a toothpick whittled to a wedge-like point and then just a tiny bit of paint at a time.  If they are recessed, I'll cover that later.

When you are finished painting, coat with a gloss coat until the finish is shiny and smooth.

Then apply decals (you likely want to use some type of solvent like micro sol and micro set, or solvaset, etc.  These will help the decals settle over bumps and angles, etc.  Be careful though as some are way too strong for certain decals).

Once the decals are on, it's time for a wash if your detail lines are recessed.  A wash is some type of paint that has been thinned a lot.  Apply this over a gloss coat so it runs into the detail lines better.  You will have overspill, where you don't want it, so do small sections and wipe up the excess pretty quickly.

After all that, apply another coat of gloss to seal in the decals.  Then apply your desired final sheen (if you want semi-gloss or flat, otherwise, you're done).

I don't have a good answer on the metallic paints for you.  I generally use foils.  I would suggest testing metallic paints with different sheen of clear coat on pieces of sprue right as you get started and letting them sit for the duration of the project to see how they do.  Also do one with no clear coat over it.

Sorry for being a bit long.

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

  • Member since
    June 2014
questions about topcoats, decals, and details
Posted by Chape87 on Wednesday, August 20, 2014 1:14 AM

Painting this zoids model using tamiya acrylic paint:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_uhAVIQRB_8Y/TF7cNWK4gxI/AAAAAAAAHhU/tCoveT7EyI0/s1600/HMM_Zoids_LigerZero_5.jpg

Tried to find some of this  info on my own, but its a bit overwhelming as a newcomer.

1. Do you guys have a particular favorite brand of top coat you use? For this particular build, what kind of top coat (flat, semi-gloss, gloss) would you recommend for the white, black, and gold/silver areas?

2. Do i top coat before or after the detail lines? Same question for the decals. I've heard some people even do one before, then one after.

3. I dont have a very steady hand. What would be the best way for me to do the detail lines and spots? what kind of method is MOST forgiving of mishaps.

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