brass locomotive

good point thanks for the info

I kinda understand that, thanks Don.

jibber

Don this is off subject, but didn't i read one of your posts where you said you use MEK instead of other plastic adhesives like Testers of Tamiya? If so whats the advantage other than cost?

Terry

It is primarily the cost, but apparently the modeling brands do have some additives.  I find that with some of the modeling cements the volatile components disappear over time, and it looks like there is still cement int he bottle, but it doesn't work as well.  My hope is that with the MEK, when it vaporizes there will be nothing left in the bottle and I can see I can't glue without refilling bottle :-)

Hay Detailer be carefful when you paint any brass loco don't paint any of the locos electric pick-up points the loco frame will be negative ground the drive wheel tires will be posative pick-up. The way I painted my brass locos paint the whole thing don't seperate boiler from the frame then use a bright boy  track cleaner tool, to clean the drive wheels also clean the front and rear guide wheels. ACESES5

thanks will give it a hook

Don this is off subject, but didn't i read one of your posts where you said you use MEK instead of other plastic adhesives like Testers of Tamiya? If so whats the advantage other than cost?

Sorry Detailer I didn't mean to cut in with Don but I have used Krylon primer before on PE skirts on one of my armor builds. I found that others don't adhere to metal like auto primers.

Terry

First, clean metal thoroughly, especially to remove any oil film.  On brass I wash first with detergent/water, then with an organic solvent like lacquer thinner or MEK.

Then, prime with a good metal primer.  Auto touchup primers such as duplicolor are very good on metal. I use Krylon primer, it is pretty good on metal.

Once you have a good primer down, it makes likttle difference what paint you use.