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So, I had some issues with my first airbrush experience. I managed to gunk it up with Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer. That stuff doesn't mix with X20A, DIW, or IPA I've come to realize.
I stripped the airbrush and soaked it in a 50/50 mix of 99%IPA and deionized water for a few hours. I took the parts out and let them air dry over night. I still have a big glob of primer to deal with and a small amount on the needle and cup. Tamiya's lacquer thinner is what I should have used. Oops.
The brush is a Neo for Iwata gravity feed. I guess I'm worried about any o-rings being damaged. In my experience with cleaning other things, a 50% water/IPA mixture shouldn't do too much to the rubber. It's not like I was soaking it in Acetone or something. However the Iwata website says to NEVER soak the entire brush, so that's why I'm worried.
I've plan on getting the Tamiya lacquer thinner, but for now can I used odorless mineral spirits to clean out the brush?
Soaking your AB in IPA should be OK. No part of your AB can be damaged by it.
I only use the Tamiya lacquer thinner with their surface primer.
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Agree with Chris, I doubt you've done any real harm. But, I also think it's not a great idea to soak the whole AB. In addition to o-rings at the nozzle, there are o-rings in the air valve and it's an air tight fit but even that can be cleaned and corrected if needs be. All of us have probably 'slopped up the AB' at some time so keep some paper towels handy and wipe, even with acetone, to clean it but don't soak it.
Mineral Spirits (odorless or otherwise) won't touch Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer.
Unless they've changed the formula, you can clean up LSP with denatured alcohol.
Thanks everyone. None of the local chain hobby stores seem to carry the Tamiya lacquer remover. I'm wondering if the Model Masters version will work. Probably.
I was also under the impression that the airbrush had teflon o-rings?
In any case, good to know the industrial strength IPA and deionized water soak combo shouldn't present any harm, as both evaporate without any residue and weren't used for more than 2 hours or so.
Thanks!
je2000 I was also under the impression that the airbrush had teflon o-rings?
Like every "solvent proof" airbrush on the market, the Neo has PTFE seals in the paint path, but has nitrile rubber seals elsewhere, such as in the air valve / handle. Nitrile seals will swell & eventually degrade in strong thinners, that's why it's not advisable to soak the entire airbrush.
A typical symptom of a soaked airbrush is a jamming air valve, which often won't operate as the seals are swollen - if this happens, stripping the seals out & allowing the thinner to evaporate from them will often return everything to normal.
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Ah PTFE. Good to know. We use PFA at my work since PTFE degrades over time. However 98% Sulfuric acid and 49% Hydrofluoric acids aren't something we modelers have to deal with.
Thanks for the info
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