Umpteenth Attempt

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Umpteenth Attempt

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 4, 2004 2:47 AM

Well guys I have to admit to all of you that after my Umpteenth Attempt, I cannot airbrush Future (Pledge One Go) worth a damn. I have tried a range of pressures (10 to 20PSI), read Swanny's article, light coats, heavier coats, short distance, further away, read Swanny's article again, thinned a little with Windex, straight from the bottle, thinned a little with alcohol, tongue held out side of mouth, etc. I just can't seem to get a smooth, glossy finish, it is always finely pebbled and semi-gloss. Once I finish off with a final flat coat the effect dissappears and you would never know but it's just got the better of me that I can't seem to master this stuff, while some modelers say they are getting a smooth gloss finish. I have no problems with normal paints by the way. I did some looking around on the net and a lot of modelers apparently have this problem, many say they now only use a brush to apply it for this very reason. I don't want to brush it on, I want to master this stuff with my airbrush, I just know one of the champion modelers on this forum has a solution other than a paintbrush. I'm baffled. Dunce [D)]

Cheers...Snowy.

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MusicCity

Member since
January 2004
From: USA

Posted by MusicCity on Thursday, March 4, 2004 5:21 AM

My results have been pretty much the same, but I haven't been using it that long . I like the finish I get, sort of a satin finish, but it would be nice to know I can get a true gloss finish from it when I want to.

I did get one that was "pretty" glossy, but it was the first one I did and I couldn't repeat it. I asked MikeV about it and he thought it might be the temperature in my workroom (basement). I think there are two things keeping me from getting a glossy finish: 1) It's cold in my basement where I work (50's right now) and even though I warm up the Future before I spray it the compressor air is still cool and chills it back down as it is sprayed. 2) I normally use flat paints. The first model I used Future on I steel-wooled before I sprayed it with Future and I think that helped a lot.

If you figure it out, let me know to!

Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page

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saltydog

Member since
July 2003
From: Lower Alabama

Posted by saltydog on Thursday, March 4, 2004 8:21 AM

i dont use future much except for dipping my canopies. i hear this supposed to "thin" you canopies appearance and make it look more realistic. personally, i dont get it. the reason i dip it is because the mask seams to come off easier. i find alot of things on this forum that doesnt work for me. as far as spraying it with an airbrush, ive only tried it once for a gloss finish and got the same results you mentioned. however, i lightly rubbed, or buffed the finish with a scrap of t-shirt material and applied another coat and the orange peel did go away. i have to admit, from then on ive been brushing the stuff on with great success. it leaves no brush marks. i use a flat "1/2" brush. i load it and make one pass, dont keep brushing the stuff. however, even with a brush, it takes about 4 good coats to achieve the glossy appearance. probably would take about 6 or 7 coats with an airbrush. im about to experiment with some lacquer gloss and flat just to try this method. later.

Chris

The Origins of Murphy's Law: "In the begginning there was nothing, and it exploded."!!! _________ chris

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 4, 2004 1:54 PM

Thanks fellas it makes me feel better to know I'm not alone on FSM Forum with this problem. Scott, for me at least I don't think temperature is the problem (it's 25 to 30 Celcius here, t-shirt and shorts weather) I might try warming the stuff in the bottle before spraying, that's not a bad idea to try. I'll let you know, thanks.

Cheers...Snowy.

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MusicCity

Member since
January 2004
From: USA

Posted by MusicCity on Thursday, March 4, 2004 8:02 PM

QUOTE: Scott, for me at least I don't think temperature is the problem (it's 25 to 30 Celcius here, t-shirt and shorts weather)

Oh yeah, I forgot. You're on the wrong side of the world Big Smile [:D]

(or is it us that's on the wrong side; I can never remember). Actually it isn't bad here today either; it's 21 Celcius here right now at 8:00pm.

QUOTE: I might try warming the stuff in the bottle before spraying, that's not a bad idea to try. I'll let you know, thanks.

Don't thank me, it was Mike's idea. I'm just passing on his good idea.

Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 5, 2004 1:48 AM

I just came across another interesting idea to try. One modeler said he airbrushes a light coat of straight Windex over his final Future coat and this levels it smooth. I haven't tried it myself yet but it sounds logical. Thought I would post it here in case others wish to try it for themselves. I will post back with how it worked on a test model.

Cheers....Snowy.

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luke

Member since
December 2002
From: -

Posted by luke on Friday, March 5, 2004 2:41 AM

Snowy - is Future available in Australia. And what other products (eg Windex) that you use that I can buy locally (ie within Australia)? With our US folks tellin us what they use and sometimes it isnt around here!

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KJ200

Member since
July 2003
From: Bicester, England

Posted by KJ200 on Friday, March 5, 2004 3:28 AM

Like the rest of you I've found it's taken a bit of practise to get a good finnish with Future, but having said that, I've found even a less than perfect surface stills takes decals well without silvering.

If you want to buff up the finnish, I've found a nail buffer works well, just use the finest one!

Karl

Currently on the bench: AZ Models 1/72 Mig 17PF

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 5, 2004 5:31 AM

Luke, I know what you mean. "Pledge One Go" is the product in Oz that is the same as Future in the US. It's made by the same company (Johnsons) just a diff. name. You can get it from Woolworthes in the section where they have floor cleaning products and stuff like Jiff, Handy Andy, etc. Probably any supermarket would have it. Just so you are aware, another product you hear mentioned on the forum by our US cousins which comes in handy is "Easy Off" oven cleaner. Woolies has this also ( Under the same name this time) and it is great for stripping model paint off without damaging the plastic. If you're like me you're gonna need some of that too.

Karl, I've found the same as you, even though the finish I am getting is less than desirable, the decals don't silver and once the final Matt coat is on you would never suspect there was a problem. It's just interesting that some people are saying they get a high gloss finish yet many otherwise experienced airbrushers speak of the same rough pebbling effect which seems to defy all the normal solutions for this type of problem.

Confused [%-)]

Cheers....Snowy.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 5, 2004 5:41 AM

Hey Scott, we're not on either side of the world mate, we're on the bottom (Officially refered to as Downunder).

Cheers....Snowy.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 5, 2004 10:17 AM

Snowy ,

I used Future for the first time when I did this model

and I wanted a very high gloss on it , So I applied several coats , I never once had any problems with it , however I didn't try to spray light coats on it , I opened the nozzle of my AB all the way and let her rip . All I can say is try it on news paper or a piece of an unwanted model ( everyone should have a test model ) I hope this helps out .

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thevinman

Member since
December 2003
From: CT - USA

Posted by thevinman on Friday, March 5, 2004 9:02 PM

I was having the same problems. It turned out to be the temperature thing. It was just too darned cold in my basement. So, I had to move my operation upstairs. I also found that if I add 1 or drops of Windex to the airbrush cup, that the future flows much better and i get a better shine with less coats. Here is my latest future job:

Only two coats...1 hour apart.

-Vinny

My Website Macross Group Build

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 6, 2004 2:13 AM

That looks great Vinny, quite a bit smoother and glossier than what I'm getting. The Windex has helped me improve a little (the pebbling is still there just a little finer). Did you lay those coats on fairly heavy Vinny or were they light coats. It seems to level better for me with heavier coats but then you walk the tight-rope with pooling and runs. You're definately getting a good result mate.

Cheers...Snowy

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 6, 2004 8:25 AM

I use a passche airbrush with the number 1 tip, which is reccomended for inks, and get a reasonable finish. I assume that it atomises the liquid a little better, before I used the finer tip the Pledge seemed to get the 'sweaty' droplet look.

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thevinman

Member since
December 2003
From: CT - USA

Posted by thevinman on Monday, March 8, 2004 9:06 PM

QUOTE: Originally posted by Snowy

That looks great Vinny, quite a bit smoother and glossier than what I'm getting. The Windex has helped me improve a little (the pebbling is still there just a little finer). Did you lay those coats on fairly heavy Vinny or were they light coats. It seems to level better for me with heavier coats but then you walk the tight-rope with pooling and runs. You're definately getting a good result mate.

Cheers...Snowy

Thanks Snowy,
(Sorry for the delayed response - my email notifications just started working again...)
My first coat is fairly light. But the second goes on pretty thick. It's hard to explain and I guess it just takes practice given your set-up is probably different than mine. (airbrush, psi, technique etc) I would venture to say that my heaviest coat is one or two “passes” away from pooling...you just need to figure out when that is, given your set-up.

Another tip that I’ve been given is to spray at low psi (10– 15) works best for me. And spray at 1-3 inches from the model. The idea being, you want to “pretend” that you are a scale painter. So, spray the model as if you where a 1 inch tall paint guy. (in other words, don’t blast away at the model from a foot away and 30 psi)

-Vinny

My Website Macross Group Build

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 9, 2004 5:39 AM

Thanks Vinny, every tip is appreciated. I tried warming the bottle of Future (Pledge) in a tub of warm water but it really didn't make any difference, it's warm here anyway, I think I can safely rule out temp. as a factor. I guess it probably just comes down to a technique thing, and just finding that sweet spot where I can lay it on a little heavier without overstepping the mark and causing runs.

Cheers...Snowy.

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