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Decals on Alclad ll aluminum 101

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  • Member since
    March 2013
Decals on Alclad ll aluminum 101
Posted by patrick206 on Thursday, January 8, 2015 3:20 PM
I've just begun use of Alclad, now comfortable with spraying it on test subjects, but wonder about decaling stage. I prefer to minimize paint build up, so hopefully the airbrushed 101 formula can be decaled without a clear coat before. After decals placed I will use an Alclad clear coat for preservation of finish. Do you that have experience with Alclad feel that the bare 101 is glossy enough to receive the decals, or is a clear gloss a real requirement? I'd much appreciate anyone with specific knowledge giving me a little advice. Thanks in advance. Patrick
  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, January 8, 2015 5:29 PM

Patrick

101 is Aluminum which I used along with polished alum on my Cutlass without any clear coating. If you seal it up after decaling, the clear coat will slightly diminish the metal look. Just a reminder that the undercoat must be as smooth as glass in order to produce a realistic metal finish.

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Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Thursday, January 8, 2015 6:03 PM

Thanks, Plasticjunkie.

Good info, nice of you to reply. I am aware of the need for dead smooth surface under Alclad, I'll use their system of primer for prep, and since I'm doing a Pro Modeler 1:72 B-17 I want the surface to reflect the aluminum of an airplane that's seen some service. I have Alclad's different clear coats, likely the light sheen will seem appropriate.

I'm guessing their gray primer/filler will be OK under the 101 and sanded very smooth down to say 12,000 grit, if it was to be shiny I'd use a gloss black. Sound on the right track? Thanks so much again.

Patrick

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, January 8, 2015 7:31 PM

You are welcome.

The gloss black is only used on with the high shine paints like chrome, polished alum and airframe alum. and not for the regular finishes.  I use Testors Gloss Black enamel (in the small bottle) thinned 50/50 for a glass smooth finish for the high shine Alclads and gray and white enamels for the regular Alclad finishes.

The non high shine Alclads will give you the duller more used look that you want. Even duller when sprayed with the dull clear coats.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, January 9, 2015 9:49 AM

I also use Testors gloss black enamel for Alclad undercoat.  Never had a problem with decals silvering over Alclad.  I find setting solution doesn't bother Alclad.  Do NOT, however, use CA accelerator on top of Alclad- ruins finish.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Friday, January 9, 2015 7:13 PM

Plasticjunkie and Don -

That answers my questions, plus a bit more, all good to know. Thanks to you both, very nice of you to respond. The Revell Germany 1:72 B-17 I'm doing is so far a really fine kit, I'm doing it for the wife of a good, long term friend. Her Father in law was a pilot of one, stationed in England, age 19 through flight school, age 20 the pilot in command. Different times back then.

His airplane was the "Ice Cold Katy," the title of a popular song during that time. I found the decals through Red Frog Hobbies, both in 1:72 and 1:48th, in case I want to do the Monogram one as well in future.

Again, thanks so much fellow's, a big help. All the best.

Patrick

  • Member since
    February 2010
Posted by Scary Plastic Man on Saturday, January 10, 2015 1:58 PM

I have found that, as others have said below, that using a clear coat will diminish the metallic shine of metalized paints but I have found a trick that seems to help: I use Model Master Metalizer clear coat and thin it even more than it already is by about 50% using over the counter alcohol (I use 70% alcohol). IT seems to still put a protective layer but the layer is thinner and does not diminish the shine as much.

  • Member since
    February 2010
Posted by Scary Plastic Man on Saturday, January 10, 2015 2:02 PM

Actually, I have seen the opposite. Setting solution seems to mar the clear finish on kits I have built with Alclad. What kind of setting solution do you use? I am using Micro-set and sometimes Solvaset.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Saturday, January 10, 2015 4:01 PM

Scary Plastic Man

Actually, I have seen the opposite. Setting solution seems to mar the clear finish on kits I have built with Alclad. What kind of setting solution do you use? I am using Micro-set and sometimes Solvaset.

 
I only use Solvaset which is very strong. I keep the Solvaset from touching the Alaclad as much as possible but sometimes you can't help it.  I have not seen any adverse reaction on the Alclad at all.  With an over abundance of caution, I let the Alclad cure for a few days before any decaling is done.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Saturday, January 10, 2015 5:02 PM

To somewhat jump on this thread, two questions along the same lines-

1.  Has anyone found a decal setting solution that works with Alclad, or is it better to seal the Alclad and then use setting solutions as normal?

2.  Has anyone used future (now PFM I think) on Alclad?  How does that work?

Thank you!

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Saturday, January 10, 2015 8:40 PM

Groot

Alclad recommends not to use decal setting solutions without sealing the finish first on the high shine finishes only. As I stated before, Solvaset is very strong and it did not affect the finish of any of my models . I recently completed a 1/72 Cutlass in Alclad polished aluminum and used tons of Solvaset to snuggle down the old Fujimi decals. I extended about 1/16 to 1/8 out of the decal body into the Alclad and did not affect the finish. Some Solvaset even dripped down the sides and nothing happened. Again, I let the Alclad cure for at least 3-4 days to play it safe.

A friend of mine did a DC3 in Alclad and SNJ polishing powder and used Future as a sealer. The finish on his DC3 was spectacular. Future will dial down a notch the metallic shine and look.

It's up to you if you want to use a clearcoat.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Saturday, January 10, 2015 10:25 PM

Plasticjunkie,

 Thanks!

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, January 11, 2015 11:22 AM

I have never had a problem with the Micro Set.  Yes, Solvaset is VERY strong and I never use it.  And Micro-Sol may create problems but not the set.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Chapin, South Carolina
Posted by Shipwreck on Monday, January 12, 2015 8:58 AM

Don you mentioned in your 1/9 post that CA dulls Alclad. I have been using CA to attach antenna cables to the finished surface. Would CA on Alclad dull the attachment points, or would it dull a greater area?

On the Bench:

Revell 1/96 USS Constitution - rigging

Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer Prep and research

Trumpeter 1/350 USS Hornet CV-8 Prep and research

 

 

 

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