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New airbrush and compressor, looking for advice....

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  • Member since
    February 2015
New airbrush and compressor, looking for advice....
Posted by scottabe on Monday, February 9, 2015 7:31 PM

Well after a few weeks of deliberating and getting approval from the wife, I finally made the purchase of a new compressor and airbrush to help further my skills in precision model making. The purchase was a Iwata Smart Jet Plus compressor along with a Neo Gravity Dual Action Airbrush. I'm between builds now, and have a Pro Modelers B-17G in queue for the next build. However, the B-17 build is extremely important to me so I bought a tester kit today to try out and work on my airbrushing skills before I move onward to the B-17. I'll be working on a 1:48 Tamya F4U-1D Corsair as my tester build.

I've been using enamels and rattle cans prior but this being my first build with an airbrush I'm looking for advice on what's best for a novice like myself. Should I stick with enamel paints or acrylics? What are my thinning options? Best paint for post cleaning airbrush? The importance of primer? I've seen you tubes where some people say that primer isn't that important. 

Basically I'm looking for all advice and ideas that work you. I'm eager to get started but I know the importance of doing it right. Please advise....cheers~

 

Scottabe

YOU TUBE CHANNEL: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOwWT3WHHcfkvNTbFmfKTmA

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, February 10, 2015 9:39 AM

Okay- two suggestions. First, practice on scrap plastic for at least an hour before you attempt to put paint down on a good model.

Second, do not think of an airbrush as a spray gun, and try to cover too much area at a time.  Keep pressures and flow low, and consider the airbrush as a brushmark-free paint brush.  Go over areas several times, including different directions, to make uniform coverage.

Both enamels and acrylics are fine.  Only reason I use enamels instead of acrylics is that I get distracted easily, and sometimes don't clean out a brush IMMEDIATELY after using acrylics.  They dry in an airbrush SO fast, and it then is hard to clean it out.  A downside of glossy enamels is a long drying time.  I have built a drying box to solve this problem.  Other than the two problems mentioned above choice between paints is personal preference.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Tuesday, February 10, 2015 1:31 PM

Hi, Scottabe - Don's recommendations are spot on, I agree with all points. For your consideration I will offer my mostly favored paint choice, Model Master enamel. It sprays very well, easy to clean the airbrush after use, not quirky as some paints can be. Acrylics are a bit less forgiving, but really not all that difficult. As Don said, a quick cleaning after use is best, a delay can add up to a messy project.

Practicing on any hard and shiny surface is a requisite, I like printed cardboard that household products come in, and for sure you want good light on the subject. Lots of experimenting with thinner ratios, spray pressures, distance to subject, etc. will all develop your skills much faster than trying to actually paint a model, even a test kit. Try laying the paint down in parallel lines, then change direction about 45 degrees for next layer, to attain even coverage. As Don said, even try circular patterns to accomplish the same. As long as you get even coverage, the paint won't care how you do it.

Enamel is much stronger in the odor department than acrylic, so do what you can to avoid prolonged spraying in direct contact with fumes, even better try to spray in a place with airflow to the outside. A spray booth with positive exhaust fan is an excellent aid for modelers.

For acrylic paint, I favor Tamiya, I just find it very consistent from batch to batch, sprays very well, adheres positively and gives a good finish. I rarely use a gloss paint, relying more on a gloss clear coat over the flat paints. Whatever medium you do use, after use cleaning is an important consideration. Some really experienced modelers say that a quick rinse by spraying some thinner through the airbrush is all it needs, but I feel strongly that at least the head set should be removed, for thorough cleaning of the little places that paint can settle in. A well maintained Iwata or other fine brushes can deliver YEARS of  trouble free use, but it doesn't take much neglect to shorten it's useful life and require a rebuild of the more critical parts.

This forum is an excellent place for asking questions and learning, feel free to fire away. Most of what I have learned came from this site and other sources. Also, if you haven't already done so, have a look at Don's Airbrush website, a quick Google check will take you there, priceless information about all things related to airbrushing. Highly recommended. Good luck as you move forward with your Iwata Neo.

Patrick

  • Member since
    February 2015
Posted by Bick on Tuesday, February 10, 2015 4:38 PM

Scottabe,

Some good advice in the above posts but if you only take one idea away from them it is "PRACTICE". Empty soda bottles, cardboard boxes, almost anything that is non-absorbent (our plastic models don't absorb paint so practice on paper towels won't tell you much) the USPS priority mail boxes work well if you save them. The Neo is a nice airbrush and can do some really nice finishes but it's double action so practice moving the brush close to the surface - like 1/2' away - and adjust spray with the trigger - you can do some fine lines. As far as paint, I'm a Craft Acrylic paint convert but your AB will spray whatever you choose. You've got a nice outfit - enjoy it and post pics!!

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