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Trouble with Washes

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  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Monday, June 8, 2015 7:12 PM

You need to kind of soak the model with Future to get a smooth, glossy coat.  Spray Future till it almost starts to run.  

Or you need to apply several thin layers of Future.

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  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Monday, June 8, 2015 6:09 PM

Groot

I make my washes with turpentine or paint thinner from Home Depot and use them over both Future and Alclad Aqua Gloss, both being acrylics and have no issues whatsoever.  Alclad Klear Kote flat is not lacquer but enamel based. I emailed Alclad regarding what to use to thin the clear flat and they said nothing harsh like lacquer but enamel thinner.

The problem I have when spraying Future is that I do not get a smooth finish but pebbly and orange peel. I have tried different air brushes, different psi's, thinning, played with distance, etc. I hand brush it with a wide soft brush and then I get a glass smooth finish.

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, June 7, 2015 10:44 PM

That's an unusual result. Myself and many other modelers that i know swear by it. On rougher Flat paints it sometimes takes a few coats in my experience. But I always get a gloss finish at some point, depending upon the base coat. Very interesting...

 

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  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Sunday, June 7, 2015 9:59 PM

I've never been able to get it to gloss up for me.  I'd put down 4-5 coats at varying pressures and distances and the only glossy parts were where I had runs or drips.  Same issues even after a light sanding with high grit paper to smooth the paint.

Groot

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, June 7, 2015 8:27 PM

I'm curious about in a previous post you mentioned problems with Future. What happened?

 

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  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Sunday, June 7, 2015 2:54 PM

Greg,

 Maybe that's what it is.  If so, I'll be laughing at myself!  Thanks!

Groot

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  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Saturday, June 6, 2015 3:16 PM

RobGroot4

I dunno, I'm using Winsor and Newton.  But looking more closely at the aqua gloss label it says it contains mineral spirits........

Rob, if the label states "Contains Mineral Spirits" that means you have Gloss Klear Kote. That is a solvent-based clear and will not necessarily provide the acrylic barrier you want to be able to use oils/turpeniod/mineral spirit wash. (although with adequate cure time it might)

It sounds to me as if you are confusing the two products, but maybe I'm missing something.

Again, Alclad's acrylic clear gloss is ALC 600, Aqua Gloss Clear.

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Saturday, June 6, 2015 2:52 PM

I dunno, I'm using Winsor and Newton.  But looking more closely at the aqua gloss label it says it contains mineral spirits, so it would make sense that any type would cause potential issues.  I also grabbed a thing of turpenoid, so maybe I'll give that a try on my "tester" model.

Groot

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  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Friday, June 5, 2015 4:42 PM

Hmm, I use oil washes all the time over Aqua Gloss. Mig oils and Mig thinner. Not sure what's going on. Could it be the brand of oil paints you use?

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Friday, June 5, 2015 4:30 PM

Thank you all, I tried the Mona Lisa thinner and it seemed to still react, but much less than previously.  I like the aqua gloss, but I think I may experiment with some Tamiya clear next and see where that gets me.  I've had no luck in the past with micro gloss and PFM (future).

Groot

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  • Member since
    December 2013
Posted by jetmaker on Thursday, June 4, 2015 3:18 AM

Alclad II Laquers is the name of the company

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Wednesday, June 3, 2015 12:36 PM

Greg

On their clear coats, I find Alclad's labeling confusing!

Aqua Gloss Clear  (ALC 600) is acrylic. It is also a milky white color which helps identify it.

Gloss Klear Kote (ALC 310) is lacquer or at least solvent based.

However, both labels state "Alclad II Lacquer" at the top. Confused

Yes. And the ALC 310 also says contains Mineral Spirits. 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Wednesday, June 3, 2015 11:23 AM

On their clear coats, I find Alclad's labeling confusing!

Aqua Gloss Clear  (ALC 600) is acrylic. It is also a milky white color which helps identify it.

Gloss Klear Kote (ALC 310) is lacquer or at least solvent based.

However, both labels state "Alclad II Lacquer" at the top. Confused

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Wednesday, June 3, 2015 7:12 AM

Gents,

 I appreciate the help.  I'll grab some Mona Lisa this afternoon and give it a shot.  Thank you!

Groot

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  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, June 2, 2015 10:42 PM

I've been using "Turpenoid" with oil paint right over enamels and not had problems. I like the stuff because it's odor free.

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  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Tuesday, June 2, 2015 10:14 PM

Aqua Gloss is acrylic. Really good stuff. I'd suggest changing thinners, like Stik said.

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, June 2, 2015 10:07 PM

Like I said, it is pretty mild stuff. I Have not yet had it bother any enamel base colors that have dried and cured for a day or two. But it only works for thinning oils. It is not a good thinner for enamels if you make your washes from them.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

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  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Tuesday, June 2, 2015 9:53 PM

Thanks Stik, I'll try to track that one down and give it a shot.  I am definitely using the generic hardware store stuff.  If need be, does the Mona Lisa work well with any enamel or acrylic clearcoats that I should consider switching to?  Thank you!

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, June 2, 2015 9:46 PM

Apparently there seems to be some interaction between it and the wash. Some mineral spirits can be "hotter" than others. I know that I have bought "Mona Lisa" thinner from Hobby Lobby for use is oil washes based upon recommendations form fellow modelers on how mild it is.  it certainly has less bite for cleaning than generic hardware store paint thinner that I also use.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Tuesday, June 2, 2015 9:34 PM

The bottle says Alclad Lacquer on it (and nothing else about type).  I saw on a website that it's supposedly an acrylic varnish. The Alclad website is of course, no help.  Either a lacquer or acrylic varnish should be fine with mineral spirits I would think?  

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, June 2, 2015 9:25 PM

Is Alclad Aqua Gloss an Acrylic or Enamel? If it is an enamel, yes, you need an acrylic layer over it before using an oil/turpentine wash.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    June 2013
Trouble with Washes
Posted by RobGroot4 on Tuesday, June 2, 2015 9:02 PM

I could use some help on this one-

I've been having trouble with my washes.  When I use an oil paint wash thinned over enamels gloss coated with Alclad Aqua Gloss I am having issues with the finish.  I thin the oil paint pretty well (I have tried white spirit and turpentine), I don't let it sit very long and then wipe it off with a brush that is ever so damp with spirits.  I generally will wait maybe 5-10 minutes (as long as it takes for me to wash a section) before I begin to wipe the wash away.  When I am done I tend to have some splotches of paint left behind that was pulled out of the panel lines, and a really sticky finish.  I feel as if I'm pulling the paint up (and it tends to look a little lighter afterward).  

Am I using the wrong clear coat, do I need an acrylic because the spirit is reacting with the aqua gloss?  Is this normal?  Everything seems good until I try to start wiping it away.  I generally read about folks allowing their washes to sit for an hour or so before wiping off, but I find I have to really scrub in some places if I let it sit too long.

What am I doing wrong here?  Thank you!

Groot

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