SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Have you seen this before? Enamel primer issues

2169 views
9 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    April 2015
  • From: Detroit, MURDER CITY
Have you seen this before? Enamel primer issues
Posted by RudyOnWheels on Monday, June 8, 2015 9:12 PM
DA 40435 white dodge r van

This is the second or third model I've had this happen on. I was spraying rust oleum automotive primer from the can, and it was down at the very bottom. I had this same issue of the primer "cracking" but it was never this bad before. I thought maybe it was because I was using the very last of it, but like I said I had the same issue on a much smaller scale, usually around edges. I thought maybe I need to properly wash the parts with soap and water, but I see the same "cracking" affect on the tape. I definitely failed to wash all three models (like a dummy) so maybe mold-release agent played somewhat of a part, but I'm not sure. I was at the very bottom of the can, where you are shaking it while spraying to get the last if it, so maybe it is the areas where it was over-applied? It did rain last night, but I sprayed it hours before the rain and this stuff dries fast. Is there such a thing as acrylic primer? I'm trying to switch over to acrylics, and plan to use AK interactive 1939-45 German colors to finish the model. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!























  • Member since
    April 2015
  • From: Detroit, MURDER CITY
Posted by RudyOnWheels on Monday, June 8, 2015 9:15 PM
Ignore the license plate number of the d-bag that was pissing me off on the way home today... I'll edit it out tomm, don't think I can so it on my phone. THANK YOU! Rudy
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, June 8, 2015 9:27 PM

Yikes! That is some nasty cracking indeed. I have gotten away from using rattle cans about 20 years ago or so, so I can't help you with this issue as far as why. But I can recommend that you switch to using a primer that you can airbrush on yourself. Tamiya, Mr Surfacer, Humbrol, Testors... You will have a LOT more control over the situation.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, June 8, 2015 9:51 PM

You didn't do anything wrong. It's the paint.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Monday, June 8, 2015 10:10 PM

Looks like to me you laid the primer on too thick instead of in several light coats. Humidity could be another possibility too. I use Rustoleum Grey Primer in rattle can from Walmart but not the automotive kind though.

  • Member since
    November 2014
Posted by BLACKSMITHN on Tuesday, June 9, 2015 5:24 AM

The most common reason for cracking is applying the paint too thickly. It's possible in this situation that since you were down to the end of the can, you had a mixture left that was more paint than whatever they use in rattle cans to keep the paint thin and help it adhere (let's call it, oh I don't know, "paint thinner" for lack of a better term). That imbalance could have caused the issue, as you would be applying more paint and less thinner. Just my theory.

  • Member since
    April 2015
  • From: Detroit, MURDER CITY
Posted by RudyOnWheels on Tuesday, June 9, 2015 9:24 AM

Thanks guys! Since it did this same thing on three different models, (but not as bad) I kind of wrote-off it being from the bottom of the can.. It seems like where it was laid too thick (due to shaking the can while spraying trying to get the last drop!) is the worst spots. I would love to find a good primer that can be airbrushed, I used some MM Enamel primer with the airbrush and had no such problems on a 1:48 PBY Catalina I am finishing up. The enamels are so damn stinky, I was forced to spray them outside with a spray can now that it is warm to avoid the whining of the wife and daughter. I have since added a bigger blower to my paint booth, but have not vented it to the outside yet....

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Tuesday, June 9, 2015 11:00 AM

I airbrush Tamiya bottled primer (lacquer) and AK acrylic primer, and have never had an issue with either.  Tamiya has more bite but AK is odorless.  Avoid Vallejo primer because it is not sandable.

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Far Northern CA
Posted by mrmike on Tuesday, June 9, 2015 11:34 AM

Tamiya primer in bottle or rattle can is a great product, I especially like the can for large areas. For smaller stuff, I use Alclad primers. They're lacquer based, so you'll need good ventilation, but they airbrush really well, stick tight and sand easily. A 4oz. bottle goes a long way.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, June 9, 2015 12:34 PM

I think that is lacquer not enamel.  Lacquer is brittle and cracking of lacquer may be due to a number of reasons.  As someone else suggested, putting it on too thick is one, attempting a recoat before first coat is dry is another, applying over an incompatible paint is a third.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.