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How long between coats when hand brushing Future/Klear?

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  • Member since
    May 2013
How long between coats when hand brushing Future/Klear?
Posted by TedsScaleModeling on Sunday, June 28, 2015 4:03 PM
I am hand brushing future on a cockpit before trying my hand for the first time with an oil wash. While the first coat went down fine, it's not as glossy as I think it should be, and I'm concerned it's not enough of a barrier for the oil wash to come. I'm thinking a second coat of future may be in order. Any suggestions on how long I should wait before applying the second coat?
  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Sunday, June 28, 2015 6:08 PM

Future has a unique odor. If you can smell it, the Future coat is not cured. I typically wait 48 hours.

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    May 2013
Posted by TedsScaleModeling on Sunday, June 28, 2015 6:41 PM
And a follow up question - once I am satisfied with the Future/Klear coat, how long should I wait for it to cure before applying the oil wash to the cockpit?
  • Member since
    August 2012
Posted by JMorgan on Monday, June 29, 2015 4:56 PM

I use oils thinned in Mona Lisa thinner. It is not as aggressive on basecoat enamels and doesn't need a barrier acrylic coat.

  • Member since
    May 2013
Posted by TedsScaleModeling on Monday, June 29, 2015 7:16 PM
Thanks everyone. Decided to go ahead and give the oil wash a try over the single brushed coat of Future. Well danged if I'm not tickled pink over the results. It took some time balancing the amount of paint in the turpenoid. Added a smidge of dishwashing liquid to improve the flow. Man it looked sooo cool! I let the wash sit for about 2 hours and then went back with a brush (and occasional Q-tip) dampened with turpenoid. I just looove how you can use the brush to tweak the wash and get it just the way you want it. Sooooo cool. My first ever wash and I am finding myself wondering WHY I waited so long. I'm taking photos of this build (AM 1/48 SBD-3 Dauntless) and will be creating a build log in the forums soon. I'm a slow builder.
  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Monday, June 29, 2015 9:08 PM

You really don't need to add dishwashing liquid.  The surface tension of turpenoid is much lower than water.  The beauty of oil washes is that you can always correct oil washes to your heart's content thanks to oil's slow drying time.  Since I discovered oil washes two years ago, I've never looked back.

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    May 2013
Posted by TedsScaleModeling on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 10:29 AM
Indeed Chris. Great stuff. Has opened my imagination to try all sorts of uses going forward. And understood re: surface tension but in this instance the dish washing liquid DID make a difference. I'm sure it was due to my oil/turn blend. Trial and error.
  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 1:46 PM

I gave it a double take when I saw dishwashing soap added to a solvent type wash. Your wash should be tinted turp and not thinned paint. When brushing Future, several coats are needed to get a good gloss base. This can be used as a barrier for a solvent wash over enamels or even over flat acrylics if you want to obtain crisp deep shadows that will not bleed out as with flat paint.

I usually wait about 10 minutes between light Future coats and at least two days for the Future to cure before decaling or doing washes.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 2:01 PM

plasticjunkie

Your wash should be tinted turp and not thinned paint.

Yes, using tinted turpenoid, as opposed to thinned paint, is the key.

I add a tiny bit of an oil paint to 1 ml of turpenoid ( in terms of volume the ratio is like 1 (paint) : 25 (turp).  

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    May 2013
Posted by TedsScaleModeling on Wednesday, July 1, 2015 9:03 PM
As was mine. Dirty turpentine. Thanks guys. Despite my best efforts to screw it up, I could not be happier with the results. The single, hand-brushed coat of Future (in this instance, anyway) held up fine. The wash was selectively applied to the cockpit and tweaked just as carefully. No sludge & wipe. As for the smidgen of dish soap, I did notice an improvement in flow into the details where I wanted the wash to go. I made a large enough batch of wash to have plenty for future applications so we'll see how it works down the road. I posted a couple of photos of the results on my Instagram account (same username) and will eventually be creating a WIP build log here on the forums in the aircraft section. Again, thank you for your replies :)
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