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Future has a unique odor. If you can smell it, the Future coat is not cured. I typically wait 48 hours.
Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank
I use oils thinned in Mona Lisa thinner. It is not as aggressive on basecoat enamels and doesn't need a barrier acrylic coat.
You really don't need to add dishwashing liquid. The surface tension of turpenoid is much lower than water. The beauty of oil washes is that you can always correct oil washes to your heart's content thanks to oil's slow drying time. Since I discovered oil washes two years ago, I've never looked back.
I gave it a double take when I saw dishwashing soap added to a solvent type wash. Your wash should be tinted turp and not thinned paint. When brushing Future, several coats are needed to get a good gloss base. This can be used as a barrier for a solvent wash over enamels or even over flat acrylics if you want to obtain crisp deep shadows that will not bleed out as with flat paint.
I usually wait about 10 minutes between light Future coats and at least two days for the Future to cure before decaling or doing washes.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
plasticjunkie Your wash should be tinted turp and not thinned paint.
Your wash should be tinted turp and not thinned paint.
Yes, using tinted turpenoid, as opposed to thinned paint, is the key.
I add a tiny bit of an oil paint to 1 ml of turpenoid ( in terms of volume the ratio is like 1 (paint) : 25 (turp).
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