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Tamiya Acrylic with Lacquer Thinner for Primer?

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  • Member since
    December 2013
Tamiya Acrylic with Lacquer Thinner for Primer?
Posted by jetmaker on Monday, July 6, 2015 7:32 PM

I know some prefer not to use a primer coat, but I prefer to use one. I also like the effect of using particular colors as a base coat. So, I was wondering if perhaps using Tamiya acrylics with lacquer thinner, which I know works very well, would be a good idea for a primer coat? My thinking is that the lacquer thinner would provide the adhesion aspect, but using regular paint colors would give the flexibility outside the typical gray or white. I know there are some manufacturers that make different colored primers, but I don't know if those work as well with lacquer thinner as Tamiya does

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Sunday, July 12, 2015 2:22 PM

It should work well because Tamiya acrylics get more bite when thinned with lacquer thinner.  Some people (including FSM authors) use Tamiya black acrylic mixed with acrylic thinner as a primer.  

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  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Sunday, July 12, 2015 3:53 PM

Indeed, it works quite well and has great adhesion qualities.

I find even Model Master enamel, when thinned well, then applied in multiple light passes does a great job of light filling and priming. It's a softer finish than the Tamiya/lacquer thinner mixture provides, which is something of an advantage when lightly sanding to level the primed areas. Must be more careful though, it's easier to sand through than the acrylic finish, that dries to a much harder and more durable cover.

I sometimes reduce enamel with lacquer thinner, I realize it flies against the old school adage that enamel and lacquer do not play well together, but that seems only with regard to spraying lacquer over enamel, (DO NOT.) When lacquer has sufficient drying time, (very quickly,) enamel sprays over it just fine in my experience. The enamel thinned with lacquer reducer dries quickly, so as a primer it can be sanded fairly soon after spraying. I do frequently use the enamel primer method, due to it's more easily sanded softer texture,, when compared to the acrylic.

Patrick

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Sunday, July 12, 2015 3:55 PM

Edit: When I referenced enamel as primer, I only use flat paint for doing that.

Patrick

  • Member since
    July 2017
Posted by DeanFrees on Tuesday, July 18, 2017 4:29 PM
I have a question I have a 69 Shelby GT-500 that is yellow plastic as it came out of the box. I am going to use a airbrush to paint it Metallic Green. Do I need to prime the model at all and what color? I will wash and clean the plastic and maybe use a super fine grit sand paper if that is possible to make the acrylic stick better. Let me know your suggestions.
  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Thursday, July 20, 2017 2:38 PM

DeanFrees
I have a question I have a 69 Shelby GT-500 that is yellow plastic as it came out of the box. I am going to use a airbrush to paint it Metallic Green. Do I need to prime the model at all and what color? I will wash and clean the plastic and maybe use a super fine grit sand paper if that is possible to make the acrylic stick better. Let me know your suggestions.
 

Washing as a prep is a really good idea, with a thorough rinse. Also sanding with a light grit helps to level any surface issues, and allows for a good paint adhesion.

There are many commercial primers out there, I'm not sure now what is the favoured brand, but a sandable primer is recommended. For myself, I use only Badger's Stynylrez, (I know, it's a wierd name.) It lays down and sands really well, it's adhesion properties are the best I've used. It comes in many different colors, for your metallic green I'd recommende white or gray.

Good luck with the project.

Patrick

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by damouav on Thursday, July 20, 2017 5:02 PM

I use Mr Paint Primers which are laquer based and they spray beautifully smooty, level and dry very quickly. The finish is like silk and can be sanded easily, you just need to be carfully using some types of fillers as the primer can soften them and cause sag in seams and such like. It produces, when cured, a very hard wearing primer ready for any type of top coat.

I have also used Badgers Stynylrez, and it too is a great product with very similar properties as MRP Primer, without the strong odour, and can be washed up in water. Where as the MRP has a relatively stronger odour and requires laquer thinners for clean up.

As Patrick mentioned, thorough pre washing is required of all parts.

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