SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Gloss Coat

4047 views
7 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    January 2013
Gloss Coat
Posted by B1Bob on Monday, July 20, 2015 4:13 PM
Hi Guys. I could use some advice. I am building a 1/72 Bell X-1. I now have it painted and decaled. I plan to use black decal stripes for the canopy framing. I am thinking about doing one of two procedures. (1) I presently have the canopy masked and have not done the canopy framing decals. I am considering gloss coating the model at this point with Polly Scale clear gloss. Then removing the masking tape and decaling the canopy frames. Then masking everything except the canopy and using Future Floor wax (PFM) on the canopy only). I am wondering if just spraying the canopy with Polly Scale Gloss will look just as good as the PFM. Or (2) Just spray the entire model including the canopy all at one with PFM. I had a bad experience with the future decades ago and now I'm a bit concerned about trying it again. I ended up with a very crackled finish. Also, I want to apply a wash to the panel lines and control surface gaps. I plan to use Flory. Would it best to just apply the wash now and only spray the clear coat once or do the clear coat, then wash then clear coat again. My inclination is to clear coat only once to avoid build-up, dust, errors, etc.. Thanks! Bob
  • Member since
    October 2006
Posted by JunJon on Tuesday, July 21, 2015 9:54 PM

For me, I would protect the entire model with a gloss coat, 1 or 2 coat only (I'm using Vallejo Premium Color Clear Varnish in Gloss, Satin and Matte. Best clear coat I ever use without degrading the color. Specially the matte. The content of Vallejo is clear inside the bottle compared to Poly Scale with a whitish color). Wash can be done successfully with a good capillary action. And this can be done with a good glossy or satin surface. And its easy to clean the wash.

  • Member since
    January 2014
  • From: Nampa, Idaho
Posted by jelliott523 on Wednesday, July 22, 2015 8:20 AM

If the canopy is not already attached, I would dip the canopy in the PFM and put it inside a sealed plastic container, or somewhere where it will not attract dust.  Then, decal the canopy and attach.  I too, have had problems using PFM as a clear coat on the surface.  I now only use it to dip canopies and for decals.  When clear coating, whether it is gloss, satin or matte, I have switched to using Alclad Klear Gloss and MM Acrylic clears.  I prefer the acrylic clears so that I can use oils or enamels for weathering and pin washes.

On the Bench:  Lots of unfinished projects!  Smile

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, July 22, 2015 8:51 AM

Weather to glosscoat before or after washes depends on what you want the washes to do.  If just a pin wash to accent control surfaces and/or panel lines, either way is fine. If washes are more for weathering, I believe they look better after glosscoat.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by B1Bob on Wednesday, July 22, 2015 10:28 AM

I previously dipped the canopy in PFM and then glued it on. I have decaled the canopy frames. At this point, I need a clear gloss that I can spray over the entire model including the canopy. Does anyone have any experience airbrushing Polly Scale clear gloss over a canopy?

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Wednesday, July 22, 2015 2:22 PM

I never spray gloss, let alone semi-gloss or even flat clear coat on a canopy. It'll cause some fading on clear parts. Use Future and mask of the clear pieces Before laying a final clearcoat gloss.

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by B1Bob on Thursday, July 23, 2015 7:57 AM

That's what I needed to know. Thanks!  Bob

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Thursday, July 23, 2015 8:56 AM

One thing I find strange on some models is a heavily weathered aircraft with a pristine super-glossy canopy.  Older canopies, especially WW2 and earlier, were not very resistant to either UV or dust erosion and usually looked pretty rough.  Modern stuff is something else- mfgs have learned a lot of tricks in the last half century on making tough transparency materials.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.