Help with thinning Model Master RLM enamels

I don't think lacquer thinner is really any worse than Model Masters own thinner. In fact lacquer thinner evaporates faster and the smell of the paint and thinner isn't as prominent after painting is finished. With regular enamel thinner the smell lingers for a few days.

I can tell you mineral spirits will not thin Model Master enamels either. Tried it and it doesn't work. They become a clunky mess. So between the two options you suggested stick with the enamel thinner from Model Master though hardware store paint thinner (different from spirits) may work.

MM enamels are my main paint source. I find that turpentine from Home Depot or Lowes works great. I even make my own washes with it. 

I'd start with using Testors Model Master Airbrush thinner. You need to get it to the consistency of skim milk. Keep trying and spraying on ascrap kit until you finally get the hang of it.

I use MM enamels extensively and I also recommend using the Testor's MM thinner. It works great and I don't any surprises. In fact, I use the manufacturers thinner for all of my paints as they are formulated for that particular paint.

I also use Testors enamels as my main paints.  I have been thinning with hardware store thinners lately because I have found difficulties finding the cans of Testors thinner in LHS.  However, I prefer the Testors if I can get it.

If I buy from a hardware store- I use the hardware store variety for cleaning, no sense in using the expensive stuff for that- I make sure to buy either turpentine or mineral spirits.  Stores sell some generic paint thinners that are junk, with lots of dissolved white powdery stuff in it.  Since I may end up thinning with it, I want pure water-clear stuff.

Two suggestions: 1) use the Testors Universal Enamel Airbrush thinner in the red can- Hobby Lobby carries it, if there is one near you, and with their 40% off coupon, it is well worth the cost. and 2) dial down your air pressure for the  more intricate work.

Do you think MM are good color matches? Several years ago when I did my BV 222 I was disappointed.

It seems like if you have questionable ventilation you might want to change paint, even if you have that on hand. If you want to try MM Acryl I would be happy to give you some. I probably have 150 bottles of RLM colors I won't be using. Switched to Mr. Color a few years ago, and like most people who use it, would never go back. I know some people don't like Acryl, but I never had any issues with it. Mr. Color is just better, and I love the smell of lacquer thinner. Just PM me if you would like to try some Acryl. 

Jay

I have used Testors Universal Enamel Thinner, (red can,) product no. 8824. Seemed to work well, but no different than some brand name enamel reducers from the paint store. Now I buy from a store that supplies to auto body repair shops, the products are all from well known major producers. The enamel and lacquer reducers I use now are from DuPont, dependable results every time.

My objection to the Testors product is the cost, over $10.00 for a 1/2 pint tin, while not literally unaffordable, that price just seems an unfair gouge to the customers. The DuPont products are about $8.00 for one quart, which gives me a very good product for thinning and for cleaning, very much more cost effective.

I heartily agree with others, that the El Cheapo stores selling very questionable products at nearly the same price as the DuPont reducers, are providing some very unpredictable results for their customers. I imagine paint stores like Sherwin Williams and others, might also be a good source for such name brand supplies. It's worth a little shopping time to find the better products.

I have switched to acrylics for some of my painting, member Bick got me interested in "craft acrylics," they work quite well and are so inexpensive when compared to model paints. I now use them for solid colors or base coats, then Tamiya for military color codes. Superb finish, durable and pleasant to spray, far less odor, but still I always use my paint booth with positive fan driven airflow vented to outside, through 4 inch sealed dryer hose. I believe ALL fumes should be removed and undetectable in work area, even cements. 

I hope you find the right items for your use, best of luck.

Patrick 

patrick206

 

My objection to the Testors product is the cost, over $10.00 for a 1/2 pint tin, while not literally unaffordable, that price just seems an unfair gouge to the customers. The DuPont products are about $8.00 for one quart, which gives me a very good product for thinning and for cleaning, very much more cost effective.

 

That's where Hobby Lobby and their 40% coupon comes in handy. IF you have a HL nearby, the discount makes it competitively priced in the $7 range. $8 a Qt for the DuPont product sounds good too. All I can say about the Testors stuff is that in the 15-20 years that I have been using the stuff, it seems to have  mixure that gives your enamel paints (any brand) more tooth for biting into the plastic and giving a good finish.

Gents, this is the stuff I use from either Home Depot or Lowes. Can't remember which cause I'm in both several times a week getting things. It's about 7 bucks and will last you till the cows come home. I get excellent results thinning all my enamels and making my washes.

Stik - I agree on the better adhesion aspect, I find the DuPont formula provides the same benefit as the Testors. Using either one I very rarely experience any paint lifting when removing masking. 

Some time ago I had the need to remove a little bleed through of the tape mask on a canopy, used a little bit of lint free pad and a slight drop of Testors thinner to wipe away, then noticed a bit of hazing. No real problem, it polished right away, but did apparently have enough aggression to slightly bite the clear plastic. I consider that to be a real benefit.

No HL anywhere near me, so can't take advantage of the 40% deals.

Patrick 

Sounds good about the DuPont stuff. What is it called, and what stores carry it?

Stik - It's simply DuPont Enamel Reducer, Lacquer Reducer, Acrylic Enamel Reducer, Etc. I buy mine at a shop that supplies auto body repair facilities, likely it can found at other quality paint stores, such as where you would shop for paint projects around your home.

But as a standard practice, I avoid getting that sort of thing from the discount big stores. They seem mostly motivated to acquire the cheapest materials they can source, then pass it on to customers. I've seen some strange crappola come from the big box stores, wasn't worth bringing home, in some cases it actually caused damage because of incompatiblity, or just bad quality.

Patrick   

I made a 109G-14 about a year ago using MM enamel RLMs for the first time. I was very pleased with the results, as the colors are done well and have a great sheen. That being said, it was difficult to get the hang of it, to say the least. ( I am not sure if it has more to do with the characteristics of the pigments, than the thinner used )

I used the red 8oz. can Testors "universal enamel thinner". I found that MM tends to be much more finicky with thinner ratio than say, Tamiya, pollyscale, or even MM acrylics. Especially when it comes to mottling. It needs more thinner. I'd say even 70/30 thinner to paint, just to start. If not, it won't be smooth. That's just my experience, using several different airbrushes and various PSI etc. Good luck!

GMorrison

Do you think MM are good color matches? Several years ago when I did my BV 222 I was disappointed.

 

To be honest, I really have no idea. I've never gotten my hands on any legit paint chips, or even that many color photos to compare to. I will say the RLM 02, 66, 70, and 71 look good to my eye. I've always thought the 65 was alittle too blueish, and the 79 seems funky, but again I have nothing to really compare it to. I have 0 experience with the later colors thus far.

I want to thank everyone for the helpful advice. I believe I will try the Testors stuff that was designed for this paint first, and go from there.

I wish Tamiya had as large a selection of colors as MM though. If they did, I would probably never buy another brand if paint again.

I liked the 02 and 66, but 71,72,73 and 74 seemed all over the map.

The reference I was comparing to was Humbrol.

ajd3530

I want to thank everyone for the helpful advice. I believe I will try the Testors stuff that was designed for this paint first, and go from there.

I wish Tamiya had as large a selection of colors as MM though. If they did, I would probably never buy another brand if paint again.

 

To reduce the cost of the airbrush thinner, I only use it for thinning.  I use the hardware stuff for cleaning.  I use about a 1:1 thinning ratio, and find my cost for thinning is less than the cost of the paint itself.  Considering the cost of kits, I find paint and thinner costs not much of an issue.  Even Alclad, a more expensive paint, requires such small amounts that it is not an issue either.

I just bought some small bottles of Testors flat & gloss black, but when I tried to thin them with lacquer thinner that I have used for ages, they didn't dissolve! Further, the paint brush would also not come clean with lacquer thinner. It was like trying to clean enamels with water. In desperation, I tried Testors airbrush thinner (black can) and it cleaned up fine. Using the thinner, I tried airbrushing some parts, which did work. I wonder if Testors had changed the formula for their enamel line? The lacquer thinner was old, but when I changed it out for a fresh batch, same problem. All of the other paints I have still work with lacquer thinner (Alclad, Tamiya, Floquil).

GMorrison

I liked the 02 and 66, but 71,72,73 and 74 seemed all over the map.

The reference I was comparing to was Humbrol.

 

Wow! What kind of aircraft is that? I love the diorama, too!

I use Testors, Testors MM, and Humbrol and thin them all with Pactra Enamel reducer or Mineral Spirits (aka Stoddarts solvent).

Real G

I just bought some small bottles of Testors flat & gloss black, but when I tried to thin them with lacquer thinner that I have used for ages, they didn't dissolve! Further, the paint brush would also not come clean with lacquer thinner. It was like trying to clean enamels with water. In desperation, I tried Testors airbrush thinner (black can) and it cleaned up fine. Using the thinner, I tried airbrushing some parts, which did work. I wonder if Testors had changed the formula for their enamel line? The lacquer thinner was old, but when I changed it out for a fresh batch, same problem. All of the other paints I have still work with lacquer thinner (Alclad, Tamiya, Floquil).

 

That's odd. I use generic LT from Home Depot to clean my brushes and it removes everything, enamel, lacquers and acrylics from the bristles. I have never thinned enamels with LT so I can't comment on that issue.

Go figure. I go to Hobby Lobby today ready to get some of the Testors red can airbrush thinner, and they don't even stock the stuff. Just my luck.

Aj

Try looking for a supervisor to see if they can re order the stock. This method usually works if they carry the merchandise but are out for the moment.