What is recomended for Acrylic paint thinner?

I may be against the current here but I use cheap windshield cleaner, the blue kind.  Seems to work good and better than tap water, IMO.  The bluish tint dont seems to affect the color either, even white.

i would use distilled water instead of tap water. i have not worked with craft paint so no help there. i spend the extra money for brand specific thinners and cleaners (MMA, Tamiya, Vallejo). just one less variable though i use windex for a/b cleaning with MMA and Tamiya BUT NOT Vallejo.

For Model Master acrylics, I use Testors Univeral Acrylic Thinner.

I have thinned craft paints with Testors' Universal Acrylic Thinner. I have even addded Future for a semi gloss look. One thing though, I find that using a solvent type primer helps in adding some bite for the craft paint to adhere really well without lifting when removing masking tape. Distilled water will also be better cause of the lack of junky minerals in it.

I would not use Future or Windex. Or tap. Try using brand specific, and if not try 91% Isopropyl. Lacquer thinner seems to work with testors MM.

I find that "acrylic" paint is water cleanup, but not usually very water soluble.

A word on Future. You can create colored Future and spray it on.

Nothing wrecks an a/b session faster than dried acrylic or Future in the brush.

waynec

... i use windex for a/b cleaning with MMA and Tamiya BUT NOT Vallejo.

I've used Vallejo Model Air paints once so far. First impression was good. Not knowing any better, I tried cleaning my Paasche Talon with generic (blue) windshield washer fluid. Worked like a champ.

You can't go wrong using the thinner that's "made" for the paint. I've used 90% Isopropyl alcohol (available in drug stores and Malwart's drug area) to thin Tamiya acrylics. I've been unsuccessful in my attempts to thin Model Master Acrylic (MMA) with water, windshield washer fluid, or alcohol.

If you're going to use water, use distilled water. Water "hardness" (mineral content) is a big variable from community to community. Naturally soft water is one thing, but the stuff used to soften hard water (salts) may be worse. Distilled water is $0.65 a gallon at Malwart - cheap enough I drink it, and leaves no calcium deposites in our coffee maker.

All the best!

Thanks everyone for the great suggestions!

This is/was my first time using my airbrush, I used water but I think I will try the windsheild washer, fluid next time around. It was great fun using the airbrush for the first time, I see now why it is used in lieu of hand painting. I have so much to learn with this hobby and the airbrushing and putting etc. ect.

Thank you all for the great reaplies and help

Cheers

Arved

I've been unsuccessful in my attempts to thin Model Master Acrylic (MMA) with water, windshield washer fluid, or alcohol. 

jr223

Hi Everyone!

I have a question in regards to thinning Acrylic paint. I have reasearched this on YouTube as well as FSM magazine and some Modelling books. So far there seems to be a lot of sugestions for thinning the Acylic paint (Craft Acrylic). I have read about, Future floor wax, Windex and some others, but somone sugested tap water.

Which is the best to use? I have Windex and the future but should I just use ordinary tap water?

Thanks

Hi jr223,

You mention craft acrylics and I use them almost exclusively. If your using branded acrylic paints it's probably easiest to use the manufacturerers thinner. I use, with craft acrylics, windex, future, windshield washer fluid and/or a homebrew mixture (water, IPA, Fantastic Window Cleaner and glycerin). I do not use just water, distilled or not (poor adhesion IMHO). Future works well as a thinner but does add some sheen to the subject. Windshield washer fluid also works well but I always add a couple of drops of GAC 200 to the paint cup when I use it. I also use X20A, mostly when I'm in hurry or don't want any extra sheen. A couple of drops of commercial flowaid (or Dawn dishwashing liquid or JetDri) helps too.

LOL

This sounds so complicated, and I thought my carrer in computers with acronyms. Is GAC200 like the Q-36 Space Modulator?
 On the serous side thanks, the craft paints I use are from the dollar store but are supposed to work just fine there was a Youtube info tiem about them. I tried just plain tap water as I was sparying the inside of a model black for lighting (LEIF ERICSON GALACTIC CRUISER STRATEGIC SPACE COMMAND with LEDS) so no problem if it dosn't come out exactly perfecly. I also have Tamaya paints, there thinner as well and Testors thinner and paints.
 The craft paint is for me as a beginner easier to clean up, yes I got it all over the air brush paint cup and my hands. It also dosn't have that strong paint smell that others do. Thanks for the help again, I will try the Future for the external hull, any ration for paint (craft) to future recomended?

Use the paint manufacturer's thinner.  Compared to kit prices, branded thinners are dirt cheap and last for a long time.  I use Tamiya X20A to thin Tamiya acrylics and one bottle is good for more than 15 models.  That makes the branded thinner cost per kit less than 50 cents.  Painting is crucial to good models.  I wouldn't compromise the painting quality to save $0.5. 

jr223

LOL

This sounds so complicated, and I thought my carrer in computers with acronyms. Is GAC200 like the Q-36 Space Modulator?
<big snip> Thanks for the help again, I will try the Future for the external hull, any ration for paint (craft) to future recomended?

GAC200 is an adhesion promoter from Golden Artist Colors

http://www.goldenpaints.com/

And, I thin til it sprays well - I don't have a magic ratio. Forgot to mention I also use Airbrush Medium (Golden, Liquitex etc) as a thinner and it works well.

As Bick does I often use craft acrylics, mostly as a primer coat to be followed with light sanding, or as a base coat. For the craft acrylics I use alcohol, sometimes adding Liquitex Flow Aid to assist with getting a smooth finish. I also have good results using lacquer reducer, that gives a more positive "bite" to the plastic surface, less chance of mask lifting paint.

I have found craft acrylics to have a very slightly rougher texture when applied, when compared to say Tamiya or Vallejo, but maybe I just haven't found the best brand yet. Not a problem at all though, as I always give a light sanding with 1200 grit pad before any other coats of anything go on.

On the plus side for craft acrylics, I believe I experience no changes from batch to batch, can't say the same for many of the name brand paints. I swear sometimes Tamiya and especially Vallejo have different spray qualities, when newly purchased bottles are used. No problem though, thinning to best proportion takes care of it.

Patrick     

Chrisk-k

Use the paint manufacturer's thinner.  Compared to kit prices, branded thinners are dirt cheap and last for a long time.  I use Tamiya X20A to thin Tamiya acrylics and one bottle is good for more than 15 models.  That makes the branded thinner cost per kit less than 50 cents.  Painting is crucial to good models.  I wouldn't compromise the painting quality to save $0.5. 

 

You know how cheap windshield cleaner is?  Sometomes you can buy a gallon for a dollar or less.  If you compare that with the "brand" thinners price, believe me they are extremely pricey.

GMorrison

I would not use Future or Windex. Or tap. Try using brand specific, and if not try 91% Isopropyl. Lacquer thinner seems to work with testors MM.

Future is clear acrylic and mixes just fine with craft paints and MM acryl as I have used it on both of these paints with good results. I don't  know about Tamiya acrylics but have heard that Future can be used with Tamiya's flat base to get semi gloss. I have also used regular LT on Tamiya acrylics but I get better performance if I use their X20-A thinner.

I use 70% isopropyl for tamiya, MM and polly scale acrylics (Not vallejo) I've always had good luck with that. I don't like water because it dries too slowly. 91% dries too fast.

Windshield washer is super cheap, but it doesn't contain a retarder and a flow enhancer like Tamiya X20A.  I'd rather spend $0.5 on the branded thinner per kit to get a better result.

I'm assuming the original question was asking about "craft acrylics" as in Apple Barrel, Folkart, Creamcoat, Plaid, etc. I've always considered Tamiya, Testors, Valejo, as "hobby paints". I agree the hobby paints should be used with the branded thinner that goes with the paint.

I've seen references where each of the craft paints have there own thinners but I've never seen them in stores.