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remind me again...why priming w/black is a good thing? Something about bringing out depth? It's great for weathering?
just starting a Hasegawa Spitfire...(1/32)...found a FEW...vids where people are priming w/black...uhhhhh...I don't really see a diff...but could be just something lost in the filming/camera...
Sometimes...I just don't see the point...a lot of work for minimal effect....same thoughts on pre-shading too...
anyway...priming w/black...reasons?
Priming using Alclad Black Gloss base is used to bring out the best results for metalic colors. I prime using Rustoleum Grey primer in a rattle can. It's wet and dry sandable. I don't prime using black primer. Lots of folks use black for preshading.
Priming with black is no more work than with any other color and preshading takes a couple of minutes. The desired result from either one is a minimal effect. Subtlety is key with either one.
Jay
The Mighty Mo says no.
Thanks guys...you helped me make my mind up!
Sometimes I don't prime anything so it depends on the application. For example, if the plastic is light colored let's say white, and my top coat is a dark color, then I shoot some decanted Krylon black primer. If the topcoat is light and the plastic is a darker or off color, then I prime in white or grey decanted Krylon primer.
When shooting red or yellow, it's advisible to shoot white first to get better coverage, otherwise these two colors may look odd.
When using Alclad High Shine paints, the primer needs to be gloss black and shot smooth as glass in order to deliver a realistic metallic finish. It gives that depth to the Alclad finish making it look as good as foil.
Non High Shine Alclad shades require white or gray primer for a more weathered metallic look.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
I used to prime with black because it created natural preshading. Nowadays I prime with light grey and add post shading. I know some people don't prime, but I always do with either Tamiya primer or AK primer.
Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank
I think what you're referring to is 'black basing' (as I've heard it called). Some folks will prime with black, build up their highlights through different techqniques, and then lightly overcoat the entire things with the 'proper' finish colour. Basically, you're using the black as your shadow in pre shading. This being said, it is very difficult to cover a dark colour with a light one... It is nice for those spots that you want to shade but are very tricky to reach without messing up and overspraying.
Life is hard, it's even harder when you're stupid - John Wayne.
AndrewW I think what you're referring to is 'black basing' (as I've heard it called). Some folks will prime with black, build up their highlights through different techqniques, and then lightly overcoat the entire things with the 'proper' finish colour.
I think what you're referring to is 'black basing' (as I've heard it called). Some folks will prime with black, build up their highlights through different techqniques, and then lightly overcoat the entire things with the 'proper' finish colour.
I keep gray, white and black primers on hand. I have found that the gray Krylon primer works best in terms of real priming. The reason for using primer literally is for adhesion and I find most of my color paints seem to adhere better to the gray stuff. So I prime the bare plastic with that. Then, I use the white or black primers over that for an undercoat to cut down the number of very light or very dark color coats I need. If I am spraying a medium color I just stick with the gray.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Priming with black makes it hard to see what you are doing. I always prime coat. When I neglect to, I always regret it.
D'oh!
But I like to prime with a colr really different than the finish coats. So I can see how the coverage is going while I'm painting. And light colors over black don't work well, unless as noted you deliberately want the dark effect to show through.
A question though: I have had terrible results with Alclad black primer. Runny, uneven, and expensive too. Is it me? In other words, is it worth getting to work?
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
GMorrison A question though: I have had terrible results with Alclad black primer. Runny, uneven, and expensive too. Is it me? In other words, is it worth getting to work?
I know so many folks who use various undercoats (I use Testors black gloss enamel myself), I don't think it is worth too much effort using the Alclad stuff. You can get great finish with lots of different undercoats.
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