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Problems with Badger 150

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  • Member since
    April 2015
Posted by Scarecrow Joe on Tuesday, September 22, 2015 1:07 PM

My experience also.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, September 21, 2015 9:14 AM

Occasionally I use lacquer thinner for cleanup, and just worry about the effect of lacquer thinner on the plastic parts.  I have paint jars for my suction feed airbrushes that have plastic lids, and some of them have warped when I cleaned the jars with lacquer thinner.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2015
Posted by Scarecrow Joe on Friday, September 18, 2015 9:26 AM

Just curious whats the reason you like metal better?

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, September 18, 2015 9:15 AM

I think I found the problem with the bottle falling out of the body.  I was using the metal bottle cap and tube from an earlier 150-like cheap knockoff instead of the plastic cap and tube the brush came with, because I like metal better.  I assumed the bodies of the brushes were the same.  I have been using it with the plastic cap and tube, and it works fine.  Apparently the newer brushes with the plastic parts must use a different taper or diameter than the older metal cap/tube versions.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, September 1, 2015 9:12 AM

Ah, good point, Don. 

BTW, on the other issue I did apply loctite to that nut. I have had two sessions using thinned enamel and it has held up so far.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Fullerton, Calif.
Posted by Don Wheeler on Monday, August 31, 2015 11:20 AM

Just a note: The size of the spout on those bottles is pretty generic.  You can use other brands; Iwata, Paasche, and even Harbor Freight will fit.

One other thought:  You might want to make sure the spout isn't bumping up against something inside the airbrush before it is fully seated.  Not likely, but possible.

Don

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home

A collection of airbrush tips and reviews

Also an Amazon E-book and paperback of tips.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, August 30, 2015 2:02 PM

I got a new bottle and top for my 150 last year and have had the same issue. I have had my 150 about 20 years and the old ones seem to be fine. But I don't use those bottles very often, I mainly use the metal cup.

I did not have your second problem, but i don't feelconfidant about the lids being secured to the bottle.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Sunday, August 30, 2015 1:35 PM

Some time ago I had experienced a similar situation, the plastic or nylon tube at bottle top did not want to remain firmly and dependably insereted in the 200 feed port. What I did may help you, I used Kleenex tissue and just made a narrow single sheet strip, wrapped around the bottle feed tube.

When inserted into the 200 body feed port, it had enough texture to form a wedge and grip that held it firmly. Easy removal, just the same twist and pull eased it right out, no evidence of leakage while in use. Hope you get it sorted.

Patrick 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, August 30, 2015 10:47 AM

Yep, I do twist it.  My old 200 does not have a removable bottle top. The cap is permanentlly affixed (swedged)- it is about forty years old.  I'll try the locktite and see what happens- if that doesn't work I guess I try the lockwasher.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Fullerton, Calif.
Posted by Don Wheeler on Saturday, August 29, 2015 11:54 AM

Don --  The 150 should be just like your old 200 as far as bottle fit.  Are you using your old bottles?  And, are you giving the bottle a twist when you install it?  The spout should have a slight taper than wedges in the airbrush.

The loose feed tube has me stumped.  In my metal capped bottles, the feed tube is swedged in place.  There is no nut.  The new plastic bottles have a continuous teflon tube.  I would be afraid that the solvents you use would soften locktite.  A little RTV might work better.

Don

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home

A collection of airbrush tips and reviews

Also an Amazon E-book and paperback of tips.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Problems with Badger 150
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, August 29, 2015 9:47 AM

My forty year old Badger 200, my normal goto brush, has finally given up the ghost, and I need to replace it.  I am using a 150 that I bought last year on a super sale, but never had a project that required a DA brush.  I am using it now, and have run into a couple of problems with the paint bottle adapter (mine is the suction feed version).

First problem is that the feed tube coming out of the bottle adapter keeps falling down out of the body of the brush. I just cannot force it into place so it will stay.  I took a sharp centerpunch and a light hobby hammer and put a little dimple on the part that fits into the body (to raise a tiny ring), and that helps, but does not completely eliminate the problem.  I have had the bottle, half full of paint, fall out when the brush was in the holder above the bench.  When the bottle hit the bench it bounced around, shedding paint!!

Second problem- the nut that holds the metal bottle cap to the central feed tube keeps working loose.  My compressor does not have a tank, and a slight vibration then feeds through the hose and I suppose this vibration loosens the nut.  I am hesitant to put a lock washer on it.  I am contemplating putting locktite on the nut.  Anyone else bothered by this problem?

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

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